My crank pulley just failed :-(

Oh dear... i've had such a great run of reliability with the supra, but today the outer ring of my crank pulley decided it no longer wished to stay attached to the centre of the pulley! Having had a little search around the forum it seems this is fairly common... and would explain the squeaks I was getting after startup, I had blamed this on the power steering pump

Luckily, however, the pulley did not take out anything on its exit, and the belt even remained on the broken pulley (god knows how!!?) and I was able to limp home as I was close anyway. So my bank account is now £215 lighter and I have a pulley and belt on the way. Am going to be repairing it myself so I have the dreaded crank pulley bolt to remove, and the pulley itself... great! Any tips will be accepted with much gratitude!!

lucy it didnt take anything with it.

you could use the old starter motor trick for the crank pully if you cant get the bolt out. put the sucket on a big bar, wedge it against the floor, remove the fuel fuse and gige it a little crank.

I had to replace the water pump on mine the other day, and the crank pulley bolt was loose! Pretty scary really, they are supposed to be 300 lbft torques arent they.

Its tight now though lol.

I thought it was 320Nm, which is considerably tight.

God knows how it came loose though.

lucy it didnt take anything with it.

 

you could use the old starter motor trick for the crank pully if you cant get the bolt out. put the sucket on a big bar, wedge it against the floor, remove the fuel fuse and gige it a little crank.

Yeh i'd heard that method mentioned before... is it safe to do? Otherwise how else can u lock the pulley whilst getting on it with a huge breaker bar?

a big braker bar will just roll the car backwards. you need a 3/4 impct wrent to undo one of those really.

one i was standing on my wing with a scaffoling pole on a braker bar puching for all i was woth, and even with the car in gear with the handbrake on it moved it backwards before the bolt would give

Just lock the cams together tightly and get an impact gun down there, job done

If you got the nads for it you can fit the braker bar in a secure location on the chassis and crank the engine a few times.I will soon loosen the nut,but i don't recommend it.I did it on my car with a brave friend standing to one side keeping an eye on things.Again not recommended.

If you got the nads for it you can fit the braker bar in a secure location on the chassis and crank the engine a few times.I will soon loosen the nut,but i don't recommend it.I did it on my car with a brave friend standing to one side keeping an eye on things.Again not recommended.

Thats how I did it as ther wasn't enough room to actually turn it on the breaker bar.

Thats how I did it as ther wasn't enough room to actually turn it on the breaker bar.

It works but fook me does the bar fly through the air when it slips

God... am not looking forward to this job !! How do you torque the bolt back up after? And do you need a new bolt?

Its a two man job really get a breaker bar and maybe a short length of scaffold tube for extra leverage. Chock the rear wheels put it in reverse gear apply handbrake. Rock the breaker bar side to side between you and a friend and it acts like a mini impact wrench and if luck is on your side the bolt should release.

Otherwise one of you needs to be in the car to apply the footbrake to stop the car moving backwards. Also if there is a lot of slack in the drivetrain put the car in its highest gear to reduce the amount of play so the crank pulley hits resistance earlier.

It was a PITA when I had to do it, also be careful you don't knock the crank sensor off during the pulley removal.

thats alright if its a manual. The auto alot harder to do as you cant lock up the engine with the gearboxs

Yeh and mine's an auto

i used a special tool that bolts onto the pulley and rests on the chassis [which someone on here kindly lent me] and a 6ft piece of scaffold, came off pretty easy used the same method to re torque it.

i wouldnt do the the spin the engine method cause if the socket comes off it will damge something on the way out rad/bonnet/kitchen window etc

hmmm, although i have marked up the pulley and not seen any movement, i think i need to stop the blaming the squeek on startup on my power steering pump too. but dont think i would try this job myself.

i used a special tool that bolts onto the pulley and rests on the chassis [which someone on here kindly lent me] and a 6ft piece of scaffold, came off pretty easy used the same method to re torque it.

 

i wouldnt do the the spin the engine method cause if the socket comes off it will damge something on the way out rad/bonnet/kitchen window etc

that sounds a lot more controlled... I wander if I might be able to rent out said tool...?!

sorry mate cant remeber who i loaned it off ,

start a new thread asking to borrow a crank pulley removal tool .

or if you have a jap garage in your area go and ask them to put an air gun on, there its a dead easy job its just getting the damn nut loose

that sounds a lot more controlled... I wander if I might be able to rent out said tool...?!

I doubt it, cos the guy who made it, (MarkSupra) never got it back the last time. I too, built my own tool to do this, and would have offered it up for club use had the incident I described above not occurred.

D to the P.

For £60, Machine Mart sell an electric rattle gun rated to 450Nm.

I doubt it, cos the guy who made it, (MarkSupra) never got it back the last time. I too, built my own tool to do this, and would have offered it up for club use had the incident I described above not occurred.

Rent it out with a £50 deposit

I would gladly pay a deposit for it and even some on top for the rental of it!