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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Trackday in an Auto TT


optim8
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Some mates and I are planning a Nurburg trip at the beginning of the summer and thought I should really do a trackday here first in preparation as I've not done one in the Supra before. I previous had a TVR Griffith 500 so being a manual you can use the box allot to set the speed of the car.

 

Now I have an Auto I'm just wondering how people get on with them on Trackdays?

 

Do you use the Manual Mode or just a lot of heavy breaking?

 

How do you fair against the manual cars on the track?

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I did countless track days in my auto TT, and it was fine. Always drove it in manual mode, stock J-Spec brakes, trick pads and Castrol SRF fluid, braided brake lines. Short sessions as it had no additional engine or transmission coolers, never put a foot wrong, mechanically. I used it as an everyday car, so I was biased for relaxed usage, a manual is not my choice for a road car. It was fine on track, even in the wet, but a manual would be slightly quicker. I'll run an auto against a manual, of similar spec, no worries, it wouldn't make a big difference.

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My experiences with CWs fast road car pads and braided hoses on j-spec brakes was horrid after I changed my brake fluid. I guess I didn't get quality fluid. The brakes definately faded a lost faster than before when the 100% stock setup. So do get the best fluid you can. As you are not a top track driver (I'm not either) and won't be pushing your car, you will probably find that the J-spec brakes fade will keep you on a "leash" so you don't push yourself or the car more that you should at a place like the ring. Of cause it depends on the way you lean on them, but it is possible. It of cause also depend on the speed they need to brake you from. If you are running a huge single, I would probably think twice about it.

When you have do the ring and maybe gathered some experience from other trackdays, you will benefit greatly from some bigger brakes. Untill then, get CWs race pads and shift to them for a trackday and change back again for normal road driving. Thats probably a good compomise.

 

You should have no trouble running the ring in an auto as stated above. A manual would probably give you more enjoyment at trackdays when you get the hang of it, but till then enjoy the ease of the autobox in manual mode.

 

Btw, if you are j-spec, you WILL run very very hot on the engine oil after ½ a lap. I hit 130c BEFORE getting to Adenau and that is even without pushing the car (due to brakes as mentioned). I would defo reccomend an oil temp gauge as you will also push the 130c on the autobahn if you run much over 120mph for extended periods of time.

I'm installing a HKS oil cooler kit, made for the j-spec before my next trip (and hoping to find money for wheels, so I can fit the UK/EU brakes as well, but OMG that is costly. Especially if you try to follow CWs words about wheels...)

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Was going to say the other thing I would worry about would be oil temps, I was seeing 130 degrees with an oil cooler last year (T67 Single) so take that into account when putting oil in the car for the trip.

 

Last trackday after ducting the oil cooler them temps were down to 120 max which is better but I still run 15/50 oil for the higher temps.

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What sort of fade did you suffer? Pad fade is when the pedal stays firm and hard, but the car won't stop. Fluid fade is the terrifying one where the fluid boils and the pedal starts by going soft and if you ignore the signs it just flops to the floor... The `Ring is a killer for brakes as it's so long and as 90% of drivers there don't REALLY know it and feel able to let the car flow, the brakes get a real hammering. It's somewhere I'd love to go. I would say it demands race spec pads for more than just a fast pootle round though, especially on the small J-Spec brakes.

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Id agree with that Chris, I was using race spec pads last year and did not have any issues. It is harsh on the brakes and would imagine with stock road pads/rubish fluid it would be horrible. Good call on your CW race pads though, I was under the impression the road ones were good for track use too!?

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I ran Chris' pads on my old auto with UK front J spec rear and that would do multiple stops from 190++ with no problems, I would not use any other pads on stock brakes.

 

were they road or race spec Dude?

Im going to be looking for pads soon currently running Porterfield RS's and really been impressed with them, better than that yellow stuff crap I had in there before.

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I wouldn't recommend my fast road pads for the `Ring if you intend to push the car. You need my race compound pads for the J-Spec brakes. They'll still work fine on the road, but are very noisy and dirty.

 

Cheers for the feedback so far, I'm a bit scared now. I experience bad brake fade in a mates MR2 Turbo on an airfield day once. Luckily there was plenty of run off!!!

 

Chris was sort of money are your Compound Pads? Sounds like a set of them at least is a good start. To be honest I'm not planning to absolutely go for it at the ring or trackday but adrenaline can get in the way a little!!! Can you recomend a good fluid as well?

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For the ring trip, take it steady for a couple of laps as no amount of xbox or PS3 can show you how the car handles on the track. The only think I found the xbox good for was learing if its a right or left hander next :)

 

Yeh, I was thinking of that. Do you know of any games on the PS3 that has Nurburg on it? I know GT4 did put that was PS2. Be good to get some practice in first!!

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Autos are good fun on track, as already mentioned just make sure you get your brakes sorted, I also use CW pads :thumbs:

 

Ahhh will everyone stop saying CW pads LOL are those race spec Wez??

 

looking for some feed back on different pads before I start shopping.

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What sort of fade did you suffer? Pad fade is when the pedal stays firm and hard, but the car won't stop. Fluid fade is the terrifying one where the fluid boils and the pedal starts by going soft and if you ignore the signs it just flops to the floor...

 

Yep, it was the second one.. I did have CRAP, cheap DOT 4 fluid. It didn't take more than 3-4 km for the pedal to go soft and bottom out. But as long as you don't push full on, you will sense that it is on the way and have plenty of time to stop. DONT push and brake at the last second... As Chris describes you need to get into a rythem and avoid leaning too much on the brakes.

 

Check the attached out, to get an idea of what you are up against compared to a "normal" track. It shows the changes in height throughout a lap of the ring.

 

 

It could be interesting to see you down there, Chris :)

On top of a good part of the DK supra club (everyting from stock MKII and MKIII to verified 800hp JTCC build MKIV) we will see "specials" like a track prepped S14, Lexus IS200 TTE supercharged , MR2 1,8 , Nissan 350Z , Ferrari 430 Supercharged , crazy HKS MR2 turbo, Skyline , RX-7 M T51 KAI and a new Ford Focus RS. It's going to be fun.

 

Regarding fluid, I think Castrol makes some of the best. I seem to have heard this for several trustworthy persons. Else do check at a local rally/race garage to see what they reccomend. I think the main point should be a high boil point, but I'l let more knowing souls comment on this one :)

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Edited by bodilx6 (see edit history)
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Ahhh will everyone stop saying CW pads LOL are those race spec Wez??

 

looking for some feed back on different pads before I start shopping.

 

Only have fast road pads in my NA auto, round BrandsHatch and Silverstone they were fine, you will prob need the race compound for the ring though.

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Only have fast road pads in my NA auto, round BrandsHatch and Silverstone they were fine, you will prob need the race compound for the ring though.

 

Cheers, I was sure people were using the fast road pads for track use and did not have an issue. Agree Ring is a whole different ball game though.

 

Think I will get some prices for new PF and CW race pads.

 

Cheers

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were they road or race spec Dude?

Im going to be looking for pads soon currently running Porterfield RS's and really been impressed with them, better than that yellow stuff crap I had in there before.

 

Just the fast road spec dude, never failed on me, like I said on stock brakes I will only reccomend CW pads.

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This is the minimum size oil cooler I could get to work on my 2.5 litre RWD Skyline, for long duration track sessions. 235 mm wide core, 34 row. Dash 12 fittings. Used with a thermostat for cold days or road usage.

 

How much loss of pressure if any do these cause Chris, I've never been a fan of oil coolers and most of the guys in the states don't bother even in pretty hot states.

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How much loss of pressure if any do these cause Chris, I've never been a fan of oil coolers and most of the guys in the states don't bother even in pretty hot states.

 

I dont see any loss in presure when my thermostatic valve opens at the 110 degree mark. But saying that my presure pick up point is off a sandwhich plate at the filter :)

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Cheers for the feedback so far, I'm a bit scared now. I experience bad brake fade in a mates MR2 Turbo on an airfield day once. Luckily there was plenty of run off!!!

 

Chris was sort of money are your Compound Pads? Sounds like a set of them at least is a good start. To be honest I'm not planning to absolutely go for it at the ring or trackday but adrenaline can get in the way a little!!! Can you recomend a good fluid as well?

 

 

Fast road compound Jap spec pads are 125 plus VAT a full car set. UK spec fast roads are 135 plus VAT a full car set. I currently can't find any more Performance Friction race pads for UK brakes, Wez had the last sets. My race compound pads for J-Spec brakes are 350 plus VAT a full car set.

 

I sell and use AP 550 brake fluid, but if you want the ultimate I also sell Castrol SRF, but it's very expensive. Waste of money unless running full race pads, IMO.

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