jihwaan Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 (edited) Figured I havent posted a 'my new car' thread so here goes... 1999 VVTI 6sp - 80k km's (Genuine too for once )with: 19" Impul wheels- HKS clutch and flywheel (dont know how long I will keep this) HKS 3" (might be 3.5") exhaust front decat slotted rotors all round w/ stainless lines HKS I/C piping and filter kit seibon front lip Genuine TRD rear wing 7" factory DVD/ MP3 / GPS (GPS is still in Japanese- no matter) 2x 12" subs and amp apexi boost gauge and turbo timer full silver reflective window tint it is a RZ-S but the previous owner fitted factory big brakes and factory recaro's... I have (yet to be fitted): Top Secret CF Bonnet Trial rear bar large FMIC 30 row oil cooler with filter relocation kit silicon hose kit + radiator hoses clear front indicators gold badge for rear and delete front badge CWEST smoked light covers (rear) triple gauge pillar setup w/ oil temp /pressure and boost gauges and am waiting for some engine bling from rays the roof http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103726&stc=1&d=1263368205 On the wish list are: 100k km service and replace a few extra bits (harmonic balancer, bushes in gearstick etc) new single turbo kit w/ AEM or haltech plugin ECU alloy radiator with thermo fans TRD Tacho & TRD speedo (drools....) and some other bits and pieces Currently the car needs a leakdown test as the compression is a little low in some cylinders so i am having that done before I go ahead and do the single upgrade, but i think the turbos are shot because it has a fair bit of oil in the IC piping... Anyways just thought i would share.. comments welcome good or bad.. Edited January 13, 2010 by jihwaan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SupraTroopa Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Looks a beaut, nice supe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jihwaan Posted January 13, 2010 Author Share Posted January 13, 2010 (edited) Thanks.. I'm pretty happy with it to say the least.. I need to ask CW about the compression issue though and get some expert advice I think... does anyone know where to get the facelift TRD speedo and tacho's from? (other than suprastore.com).... Edited January 13, 2010 by jihwaan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 VVTi 6 speed in black. Truly sexual :0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky49 Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Nice looking car you have there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jihwaan Posted January 13, 2010 Author Share Posted January 13, 2010 Thanks Ricky... has a long way to go but I think this will be my last supra as I will be putting my heart and soul into this one... and keeping her... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luxluc Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Very nice Supra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project Blitz Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 nice motor mate i do like those wheels was looking to get similar a while back for my 200sx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HadeS Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Like the wheels thou. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Looks mint! A rare beast you have there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liam1 Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 very nice mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra steveo Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 looks lush that mate , bet your chuffed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Looks very nice but whats up with the engine ? you say its got low compression, how low ? Very supprising if the cars only done 80,000 km. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jihwaan Posted January 14, 2010 Author Share Posted January 14, 2010 (edited) @prox 125 on the lowest cylinder, ~130 -140 on the next two and 157-165 on the last three.. the thing pulls like a freight train and doesnt smoke (except slightly when it hits redline which is normal I thought - excess fuel I think) I have no idea what is going on thats why its going in for a leakdown test on monday- I have no idea what it is- the mechanic who is doing the test reckons it could be valves- But the numbers came up when wet (oil in cylinders and re-test) but they didnt come up as much as I would have expected if it was just rings... Oh well guess Ill find out monday... Anyone got any theories as to what else it could be- valve stem seals or something? I am certain it has only done the 80k that it says on the clock... The guy I bought it off drove it pretty hard... he looked after it though with all services and genuine oils - I have all receipts for this.. Edited January 14, 2010 by jihwaan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 It wont be valve stem seals as these have nothing to do with compression inside the cylinders. Worn cylinder bores, worn piston rings, broken piston rings, bent valves, poor valve seats are the main culprits for low compressions. All the best with it but looking at your figures it doesnt look good but a properly done leak down test should tell you where the problem, problems are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jihwaan Posted January 14, 2010 Author Share Posted January 14, 2010 Sorry I meant valve seats (does my lack of general mechanical knowledge show yet).. If its valve seats the head needs off and valve seats need be reground yes? I figured the numbers weren't good but arent exactly 'tear it out its stuffed' numbers either.. I got it for a good price (saved almost 5000 pounds - $10k in our money) so I have some money to put into it before I am behind the ball... I just figured if its anything broken or severly worn it would be usnig oil or smoking wouldnt it? I mean I have only done just over 1000 miles since I bought it a few months ago and it hasnt missed a beat.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 (edited) Yes the easy fix is valve seats, get them re cut and re grind the valves and job done but at 80000 km it shouldnt have these problems. Edited January 14, 2010 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jihwaan Posted January 14, 2010 Author Share Posted January 14, 2010 well my other option is buy another JDM motor out of a half cut... but then there is no guarantee that will be sound either.. Guess I'll find out monday.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jihwaan Posted January 18, 2010 Author Share Posted January 18, 2010 (edited) I just got the car back from who is considered the most reputable mechanic in my area and he said all cylinders were around 200- and that as far as he was concerned the motor is in perfect condition bar a small oil leak from one of the cam covers... he tested the motor once warmed up - I wonder if this made a difference? he also said the actual numbers mean nothing as he has seen different gauges give vastly different readings but its more the difference between cylinders which was negligable at best.. How the hell the mechanics who had tested the car before had botched it up was beyond him- he said maybe they tested it cold and some oil had leaked into the cylinders from the leaking cam seal- he isnt sure. Needless to say I am a very happy camper.. Does anyone know how the guys who did the test the first time might have messed it up? Im off to do a spot of online shopping... vipec ecu precision billet turbo 4" dump pipe turbo manifold fuel pump injectors... lol... well maybe a bit at a time but hell i am one happy camper...! Edited January 18, 2010 by jihwaan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveC Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 I just got the car back from who is considered the most reputable mechanic in my area and he said all cylinders were around 200- and that as far as he was concerned the motor is in perfect condition bar a small oil leak from one of the cam covers... Readings of around 200 psi sound a little high to me. Perhaps the readings on a VVTi are higher than on a non-VVTi? I wouldn't have expected 200 psi though. I thought readings were usually within the range of 150 - 180 psi - depending on the accuracy of individual gauge, of course (and hopefully readings of all cylinders are within 14 psi of each other). I cannot understand how the readings were initially all over the place and then stable at an indicated 200 psi - unless the first guy who tested didn't know what he was doing, or else his gauge simply wanted binning. The main thing is it drives well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jihwaan Posted January 18, 2010 Author Share Posted January 18, 2010 (edited) Yes they seem a bit high but as he pointed out in his 35 years he has seen a lot of variance in gauges and readings and although he uses a high quality gauge it is possible it is 'more sensitive' than some others.. as he said its not the actual figures but the difference between them- needless to say I am very very happy... from another source- "The tests will vary depending on MANY MANY factors. Battery charge level/health (crank rpm), spark plugs in or out, number of cranks, engine temp, etc etc etc.. You cant compare yours vs someone elses to compare engine health. The numbers vary too much. The MAIN reason for a compression check to is check for variances between cylinders" and in case anyone is reading this looking for the standard figures- from the manual I have here are the instructions to do a compression test- COMPRESSION INSPECTION HINT: If there is lack of power, excessive oil consumption or poor fuel economy, measure the compression pressure. 1. WARM UP AND STOP ENGINE Allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature. 2. DISCONNECT CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CONNECTORS 3. REMOVE IGNITION COILS ASSEMBLIES (See page IG–6) 4. REMOVE SPARK PLUGS 5. DISCONNECT INJECTOR CONNECTORS 6. CHECK CYLINDER COMPRESSION (a) Insert a compression tester into the spark plug hole. (b) While cranking the engine, measure the compression pressure. HINT: Always use a fully charged battery to obtain engine revolutions of 250 rpm or more. © Repeat steps (a) through (b) for each cylinder. NOTICE: This measurement must be done in as short a time as possible. Standard pressure: 1,079 kPa (11.0 kgf/cm2, 156 psi) or more Minimum pressure: 883 kPa (9.0 kgf/cm2, 128 psi) Difference between each cylinder: 98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14 psi) or less (d) If the cylinder compression in 1 or more cylinders is low, pour a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeat steps (a) through (b) for the cylinder with low compression. If adding oil helps the compression, it is likely that the piston rings and/or cylinder bore are probably worn or damaged. If pressure stays low, a valve may be sticking or seating improper, or there may be leakage past the gasket. Edited January 18, 2010 by jihwaan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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