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My new sup'


jihwaan
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Figured I havent posted a 'my new car' thread so here goes...

 

1999 VVTI 6sp - 80k km's (Genuine too for once :) )with:

19" Impul wheels-

HKS clutch and flywheel (dont know how long I will keep this)

HKS 3" (might be 3.5") exhaust

front decat

slotted rotors all round w/ stainless lines

HKS I/C piping and filter kit

seibon front lip

Genuine TRD rear wing

7" factory DVD/ MP3 / GPS (GPS is still in Japanese- no matter)

2x 12" subs and amp

apexi boost gauge and turbo timer

full silver reflective window tint

it is a RZ-S but the previous owner fitted factory big brakes and factory recaro's...

 

I have (yet to be fitted):

Top Secret CF Bonnet

Trial rear bar

large FMIC

30 row oil cooler with filter relocation kit

silicon hose kit + radiator hoses

clear front indicators

gold badge for rear and delete front badge

CWEST smoked light covers (rear)

triple gauge pillar setup w/ oil temp /pressure and boost gauges

and am waiting for some engine bling from rays the roof

 

 

http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103726&stc=1&d=1263368205

 

On the wish list are:

100k km service and replace a few extra bits (harmonic balancer, bushes in gearstick etc)

new single turbo kit w/ AEM or haltech plugin ECU

alloy radiator with thermo fans

TRD Tacho & TRD speedo (drools....)

and some other bits and pieces

 

Currently the car needs a leakdown test as the compression is a little low in some cylinders so i am having that done before I go ahead and do the single upgrade, but i think the turbos are shot because it has a fair bit of oil in the IC piping...

 

Anyways just thought i would share..

comments welcome good or bad..

bllack_supra.jpg

Edited by jihwaan (see edit history)
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@prox 125 on the lowest cylinder, ~130 -140 on the next two and 157-165 on the last three..

 

the thing pulls like a freight train and doesnt smoke (except slightly when it hits redline which is normal I thought - excess fuel I think)

I have no idea what is going on thats why its going in for a leakdown test on monday- I have no idea what it is- the mechanic who is doing the test reckons it could be valves-

But the numbers came up when wet (oil in cylinders and re-test) but they didnt come up as much as I would have expected if it was just rings...

Oh well guess Ill find out monday...

 

Anyone got any theories as to what else it could be- valve stem seals or something?

 

I am certain it has only done the 80k that it says on the clock...

The guy I bought it off drove it pretty hard... he looked after it though with all services and genuine oils - I have all receipts for this..

Edited by jihwaan (see edit history)
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It wont be valve stem seals as these have nothing to do with compression inside the cylinders.

 

Worn cylinder bores, worn piston rings, broken piston rings, bent valves, poor valve seats are the main culprits for low compressions.

 

All the best with it but looking at your figures it doesnt look good but a properly done leak down test should tell you where the problem, problems are.

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Sorry I meant valve seats (does my lack of general mechanical knowledge show yet)..

If its valve seats the head needs off and valve seats need be reground yes?

I figured the numbers weren't good but arent exactly 'tear it out its stuffed' numbers either..

I got it for a good price (saved almost 5000 pounds - $10k in our money) so I have some money to put into it before I am behind the ball...

 

I just figured if its anything broken or severly worn it would be usnig oil or smoking wouldnt it? I mean I have only done just over 1000 miles since I bought it a few months ago and it hasnt missed a beat....

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I just got the car back from who is considered the most reputable mechanic in my area and he said all cylinders were around 200- and that as far as he was concerned the motor is in perfect condition bar a small oil leak from one of the cam covers...

he tested the motor once warmed up - I wonder if this made a difference?

he also said the actual numbers mean nothing as he has seen different gauges give vastly different readings but its more the difference between cylinders which was negligable at best..

 

How the hell the mechanics who had tested the car before had botched it up was beyond him- he said maybe they tested it cold and some oil had leaked into the cylinders from the leaking cam seal- he isnt sure. Needless to say I am a very happy camper..

Does anyone know how the guys who did the test the first time might have messed it up?

 

Im off to do a spot of online shopping...

 

vipec ecu

precision billet turbo

4" dump pipe

turbo manifold

fuel pump

injectors...

lol... well maybe a bit at a time but hell i am one happy camper...!

Edited by jihwaan (see edit history)
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I just got the car back from who is considered the most reputable mechanic in my area and he said all cylinders were around 200- and that as far as he was concerned the motor is in perfect condition bar a small oil leak from one of the cam covers...

Readings of around 200 psi sound a little high to me. Perhaps the readings on a VVTi are higher than on a non-VVTi? I wouldn't have expected 200 psi though.

 

I thought readings were usually within the range of 150 - 180 psi - depending on the accuracy of individual gauge, of course (and hopefully readings of all cylinders are within 14 psi of each other).

 

I cannot understand how the readings were initially all over the place and then stable at an indicated 200 psi - unless the first guy who tested didn't know what he was doing, or else his gauge simply wanted binning.

 

The main thing is it drives well. :)

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Yes they seem a bit high but as he pointed out in his 35 years he has seen a lot of variance in gauges and readings and although he uses a high quality gauge it is possible it is 'more sensitive' than some others..

 

as he said its not the actual figures but the difference between them- needless to say I am very very happy...

from another source-

"The tests will vary depending on MANY MANY factors. Battery charge level/health (crank rpm), spark plugs in or out, number of cranks, engine temp, etc etc etc.. You cant compare yours vs someone elses to compare engine health. The numbers vary too much. The MAIN reason for a compression check to is check for variances between cylinders"

 

and in case anyone is reading this looking for the standard figures- from the manual I have here are the instructions to do a compression test-

 

 

COMPRESSION INSPECTION

HINT:

If there is lack of power, excessive oil consumption or poor fuel

economy, measure the compression pressure.

1. WARM UP AND STOP ENGINE

Allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature.

2. DISCONNECT CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

CONNECTORS

3. REMOVE IGNITION COILS ASSEMBLIES

(See page IG–6)

4. REMOVE SPARK PLUGS

5. DISCONNECT INJECTOR CONNECTORS

6. CHECK CYLINDER COMPRESSION

(a) Insert a compression tester into the spark plug hole.

(b) While cranking the engine, measure the compression

pressure.

HINT:

Always use a fully charged battery to obtain engine revolutions

of 250 rpm or more.

© Repeat steps (a) through (b) for each cylinder.

NOTICE:

This measurement must be done in as short a time as possible.

Standard pressure:

1,079 kPa (11.0 kgf/cm2, 156 psi) or more

Minimum pressure:

883 kPa (9.0 kgf/cm2, 128 psi)

Difference between each cylinder:

98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14 psi) or less

(d) If the cylinder compression in 1 or more cylinders is low,

pour a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder through

the spark plug hole and repeat steps (a) through (b) for

the cylinder with low compression.

If adding oil helps the compression, it is likely that

the piston rings and/or cylinder bore are probably

worn or damaged.

If pressure stays low, a valve may be sticking or

seating improper, or there may be leakage past the

gasket.

Edited by jihwaan (see edit history)
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