clutch problem, help

just had aasco flywheel fitted and southbend clutch fitted and its dragging, clutch wont release.

garage said they tried everything

arrr

cant be a very good garage then if they cant do something as simple as a clutch

can you be more specific on the problem?

gonna phone garage now get more info, could it be wrong clutch was sent is there many different clutch fitments for supra

clutch is engaged all the time no matter how much clutch is pressed.

the clutch plate is touching the flywheel and cover even tho clutch is to the floor.

only minimal,

if its in gear and clutch is down car creeps forward

thats what garage are saying

something doesnt sound quite right there... is it a TT or a NA?

its tt 6 speed

think dude is having same problem,

think its a problem with clutch some how.

waiting to here back from manufactures

fair enough but are you sure its been fitted properly?

TT clutches fit to the box 1st, you/they do know that right?

yeah they deff fitted it right, good garage i went to.

dude is having same problem with a southbend clutch, so def a fault with it,

My problem now is, if it is faulty clutch i have to pay for clutch to be taken out and then put back in again, so 3 times the charge of replacing clutch.

££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££

yeah they deff fitted it right, good garage i went to.

 

dude is having same problem with a southbend clutch, so def a fault with it,

 

My problem now is, if it is faulty clutch i have to pay for clutch to be taken out and then put back in again, so 3 times the charge of replacing clutch.

££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££

No you don't dude, we will do it for you FOC.

thanks dude appreciate it, feeling better about situation, your always great help, thanks

Got this e.mail from southbend, we will be investigating our problem on monday, I think the problem may be slave cylinder related.

Hi Matt

We operate every clutch before it leave our facility so we know that there is clean disengagement before it is installed. The clutch machine used to test the clutch pulls the fingers .400" to simulate the travel of the release bearing. At this point the plate lifts .090" which is more than enough to provide good shifting.

Try to measure the actual travel of the T/O in the car your having problems with.

These cars are getting older and have more and more issues like "crank walk" and flex in the hydraulic system that effect clutch operation.

Thanks,

Andy Pyfer

South Bend Clutch Inc.

ill wait to here how you get on then.

I will measure the travel of the slave cyl rod in the car and then swap it for mine, I'll also measure it in mine befroe I remove it.

bit odd tho how we have exact same problem with same part.

my garage dont think theres a problem with slave cylinder, they even said they re bleed it. and still problems.

im not a machanic tho and dont fully understand operation,

im hoping your problem is the same as mine and its easy fix

thanks for your help dude, would be stuck without ya.

m

sounds good to me,

my cars only for weekend pleasure so im not in big panic, just rob the mrs car for bit

she dont mind.

Common problem with American clutches. You need a smaller bore slave cylinder.

Common problem with American clutches. You need a smaller bore slave cylinder.

Thats what I thought Chris, but I cant belive Everyone who buys a southbend also needs to get a new slave cylinder. I wonder if its just that little bit too weak to throw the release bearing that little bit further.

Hydraulics either work or leak. Clutch makers fear too MUCH bearing travel and damaged diaphragms so tend to err on the side of them only releasing near full pedal travel. Some clutches are based on re used, re ground pressure plates, which need however much has been ground off them more travel to release, on a flywheel not machined to compensate for the material removal on the plate. This can make the clutch drag, even with full pedal travel. A smaller slave, and, if needed, a mechanical PEDAL stop is the correct answer.

Ok Ive put another slave cylinder on and all is fine, this one has a gold piston as opposed to a red one which means its off an SZR, pedal feels the same but now no dragging.

Too many people on here have fitted these clutches without needing to change slave cylinders for it to be the case of the piston being too large.

So it's a different piston size then? The N/A uses a different slave cylinder piston size to the TT. As you can see, the gold piston is a smaller diameter, hence you get more pushrod travel, and the clutch releases.

So it's a different piston size then? The N/A uses a different slave cylinder piston size to the TT. As you can see, the gold piston is a smaller diameter, hence you get more pushrod travel, and the clutch releases.

I just new that would be the case!!!!!

I didnt have a red piston one to hand!!!!

I dont think many other people have had to change slaves as well as clutches, saying that we struggled to get a pedal on a Holden VSV with a small block and southbend, it only just gets past the dragging stage but we put that down to the fact it had strange pipes returning to the master from the slave to bleed it because as stock the slave has to be bleed with the box out because it is also the release bearing.

So it's a different piston size then? The N/A uses a different slave cylinder piston size to the TT. As you can see, the gold piston is a smaller diameter, hence you get more pushrod travel, and the clutch releases.

Toyota list 3 slaves 1 for NA 1 for TT and 1 for SZR with 6 speed box.

2 have the same piston size, but with different strength return springs.

Forgive me if this is stupid, but I thought that if you adjusted the rod on top of the clutch pedal so it extends it, it would in turn push further, giving you a bite point higher up the pedal travel. In effect, should this not also help the clutch disengage if dragging is occuring?

No, all you do there is take all, or nearly all the free play out of the linkage so the bearing is then under a load if there's no free play. You are losing the needed free play to gain a tad of travel. You should correctly address a lack of travel by piston size change. If you need to adjust the pedal push rod so there's no, or nearly no free play then you risk damage to the release bearing and the fingers of the diaphragm. As the clutch wears you may find you continually need to re-adjust it. RPS and Southbend clutches for the MKIV often show this problem, in my experience. At least there's the option of an off the shelf, straight bolt on slave cylinder with a smaller bore, many times I have to fabricate things top get around issues like this, which can get very expensive. I am having to fit a .70 bore master cylinder to my Skyline as the stock 3/8" bore unit doesn't displace quite enough fluid for my one off concentric release bearing set up to disengage as fully as I'd like, at a sensible pedal depression distance. This isn't straightforward as the stock MC has offset bolt holes, and although AP ones are offered with offset holes, they offset the wrong way, with the wrong PCD on the holes. It gets fiddly very quickly!