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Greasing wheel studs / wheel nuts


1JZGTE
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My wheel nuts are rusty and the wheel studs could do with a clean. I used a wire brush to clean up the wheel studs.

 

Question is, before whacking the wheels back on, would I be doing any harm by slapping on some grease or maybe spraying some WD40 on the wheel studs and wheel nuts or is this a no no as the grease / WD40 will assist in the bloody things coming off at high speed?

 

Sorry if it sounds daft...:innocent:

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Me and Brother use Copper grease having been recommended by others.

 

Also due to not being able to get wheels off before without a big hammer.

 

We've done numerous track days and drift days between us and never had a problem :)

 

edit - only use a dab per stud.

Edited by downimpact
to add a small amount (see edit history)
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Me and Brother use Copper grease having been recommended by others.

 

Also due to not being able to get wheels off before without a big hammer.

 

We've done numerous track days and drift days between us and never had a problem :)

 

edit - only use a dab per stud.

 

yeh this copper or alloy slip works wonders.

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WD40 is primarily a water repellent and would dry out. I can't see any problem using a bit of grease on the threads instead of Copperslip. That said, I also tend to use Copperslip.

 

I remember having to drive down the hard shoulder of the motorway with a flat tyre because I couldn't undo wheel nuts (threads hadn't been lubricated). Fortunately it was only in a Fiat Panda, so the replacement wheel and tyre weren't very expensive.

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I'd personally never use any kind of grease or lubricant on wheel studs.

 

The reduction in friction provided by the grease will alter the relationship between torque on the nut and tension in the stud. This means that when you tighten the nut to the rated torque, the stud will be under a lot more stress than you expect. It's a gamble to how close this stress will be to the yield stress meaning snapped studs and lost wheels. :blink:

 

Keep them threads clean and dry!

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  • 2 months later...

I use copper slip. I doubt anyone actually torques their wheel nuts so ignore that bit. Never ever over tighten them though, as hard as you can on a one handed pull with a 10" ratchet is plenty, put a couple on that way then use your wheel brace to get a feel for the torque by registering where the brace is, loosen it off, then tighten it back up. If your wife/girlfriend cannot undo them then you have gone too far.

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I use copper slip. I doubt anyone actually torques their wheel nuts so ignore that bit. Never ever over tighten them though, as hard as you can on a one handed pull with a 10" ratchet is plenty, put a couple on that way then use your wheel brace to get a feel for the torque by registering where the brace is, loosen it off, then tighten it back up. If your wife/girlfriend cannot undo them then you have gone too far.

I always torque my wheel nuts... and any other nut/bolt that I have the torque setting for. If you've got a torque wrench, use it and if you've got a socket set but no torque wrench, buy one (and not one of those cheapo bendy bar types) it's an investment in your car.

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I doubt it will work like that unfortunately. The torque settings are for stock wheels with top-hat nuts. The torque setting will be slightly higher for the 60 degree nuts on most aftermarket wheels i would have thought.

 

Yes, it would appear that around 20% more torque is required for the 60° cone type nuts. There's some good info here about wheel nuts, studs and spigot rings.

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