New oil pump and FMS. I still have problems

A few weeks ago my FMS went resulting in a big oil leak. After taking a lot of advice from posts and threads on here, a new seal was ordered along with a new oil pump.

These were fitted last week and I drove the car home without issue, just under 50 miles. One thing I did notice was on full boost my oil pressure went to the max on my defi gauge. This is measured in KPA so it converts to 145 PSI. Is this to much for a BPU car?

Anyway, I noticed today that my under tray had a small pool of oil in it. I removed the under tray and cleaned it thinking it may have been from the FMS failure a few weeks back. With the tray removed I started the car only to see oil squirting out again. Gutted.

If the pump and the seal are both new what can be the likely cause of this? I'm still not sure it is the FMS until the car can be lifted up and checked properly. It could be the oil pump it's self.

Thanks for any advice.

There could be two reasons for this, firstly when the old pump was removed, was it striped and checked to see what sort of damage it had? and was the sump checked for metallic particles?

it is possible that the something else was responsible for contaminating the pump, thus causing ware and seal failure.

The second could simply be that the new pump has a sticky pressure relief valve and is causing over pressure (145 psi is too much unless its a cold start with say 20W50 oil? , which is allowing too much oil to be forced past the pump flanges and spigot, and in turn forcing the seal lips to fail.

Obviously the second is preferable, and easily investigated buy removing and checking the pressure relief valve.

Is the pressure relief valve behind the oil filter holding the stock oil cooler on.

I doubt very much that the old pump or the sump were checked at all.

I was just assuming that the new pump was responsible for the higher pressure. The old pump was seeing 800 kpa or 115 psi on full boost. When I started to see 145 psi I just thought the older reading was low because if was nackered.

I should also add that I'm seeing a bit of black smoke from the exahust which has me a little worried. It's not loads of smoke but it's a noticable amount. I'm not sure if this is down the the fact that I've just decatted the car. You cant see the smoke when the car is going down the road, only when it;s parked up but the exhaust does sound gargley and spitty....again not sure if this is due to the decat or if I'm just being overly paranoid.

OK from what you're describing, it does sound to me like you have a fuelling problem also.

If its making black smoke on idle, then i would suggest the you either clean or replace the lambda sensor, it also may be in idea to check the water temp sensor for the ECU.

Or take it to somebody that knows what there doing.

The pressure increase does seem a little high, 115 at high RPM is not unusual but 145 seems a little excessive, like i said check the pressure relief valve, which is situated on the front of the oil pump, top right.

I presume you don't have an AFR gauge fitted? this would give an insight into just how rich it is, and I'm afraid the rich mixture could be the original reason for the demise of the pump/seal as if the oil is heavily contaminated by fuel then this can lead to rapid wear.

Like i said my advice would be get it looked at by somebody competent.

Cheers Ricky.

I had reason to believe that it was checked by somebody competent. Unfortunatly it appears that we are all rapidly running out of compotent Supra mechanics.

The next question is what are the probable causes of it over fueling and how can it be fixed? Does it all relate to the lambda sensor ?

The next question is what are the probable causes of it over fueling and how can it be fixed? Does it all relate to the lambda sensor ?

If the lambda sensor is fooked it runs at a default setting, which is not that rich, i suspect you may have a sticking injector, or fooked fuel pressure regulator, also as said the ECU water temp sensor could have gone bad, but again it shouldn't be very rich because of it.

Other possibility's are MAP sensor or AFM Is it J spec or UK?

Ross if you get the oil problem sorted ive got spare injectors, and fuel regulator we can try also we can take off the lambda sensor and swap it with mine to give that a go.

Just a side track Ricky, if the pressure relief valve is in the front of the oil pump on the right what is the valve called which bolts the stock oil cooler to the block as that has a relief valve in also which was rusulting in my oil pressure being very low.

Where's the old pump? If you take the cover off the back of it and post REALLY good detailed pics of the rotor and housing I can tell you if it died due to shrapnel going through it, which is often the indirect cause of the seal failing. Just nailing a new pump and seal on is very often NOT a satisfactory fix for the problem I'm afraid.

Unfortunately Chris, it seems unless some garages/mechanics are given very specific instructions these days, they just don't take the odd minuets it takes to check the bottom of the sump or pull the back off the oil pump, and diagnose the reason they are being asked to change an pump.

John, the relief valve that goes through the filter fitting is for the filter should it become clogged, it prevents oil starvation.

neither relief valve should have an impact on oil pressure unless the pump is overpressureing the system, or the filter is clogged, its the pump that determines the oil pressure.

Here is an example of a pump that is fooked enough to keep blowing the front main seal (on a modified pump) but still able to give perfectly good oil pressure (120psi at hight RPM and 30psi at idle)

Ricky - It's a Jap car.

Chris - I'll see if the garage has kept the old pump. If they have I'll pick it up and get some pics up.

John - If they can fix the oil leek........again, then I'm woried to drive the car about. If there is an underlying problem which is causing the seal to fail then chances are it will go before I even get to your house lol. It only lasted 50 miles from it's last fix. Possibly less as I cant see it poping out when the car was parked up so there is a chance I've driven it 40 odd miles with oil leaking out.

Bossco, did you ever get this sorted mate?

If so, what was the problem?

I did mate. Turns out the front seal had popped again caused by the presure release valve sticking in the new pump. Fingers crossed it hasn't leaked any oil since.

Michel Lane posted up a few days back with reagrds to the garage who fixed mine. They also sorted his but it turns it turns out they done a bit of a cowboy job on it so god knows how they repaired mine. They didnt say anything out of the ordinary, only that the presure release valve was opening fine...............but then again if they had made a botch job of it it's not likely they would tell me.

Have you got problems too?

No mate, I've just been reading on another thread about yet another catasrophic FMS failure. I was going to give advice on it and decided to do some searching (to make sure I wasn't just talking bollox) and came across this thread, but there was no conclusion.

The FMS failure is a foible of the supra, I like to make sure I know as much about it as possible in case it does happen to me.

My car has been off the road for about three months, I imagine that as soon as I get her back on the road (in the very near future I hope), that little things will start rearing their ugly heads. This being one of them.

I'm glad to hear you got it all sorted in the end.

When you search on hear about it they all turn up the same results. I hope you dont have to replace it.

It's kind of a given that it's best practice to replace the pump. but I couldn't work out why you were still popping FMS's.

Thanks for clearing it up though mate

Changing the pump is a real nitemare:(its either engine out or drop the complete subframe to remove the sump, me and my bro did the latter as i said not a nice job.