My supra re-build

I ve just started out to rebuild my Supra, basically I m putting in a brand new shortblock, head, gearbox, diff, suspension and brakes. A brief history of my car, well it was originally an NA 5spd Supra which I converted to a TT 6spd (due to the lack of availability of good used supra's in India). This conversion was done about three years ago, I imported a used TT lump from Malaysia and sourced a 6spd gearbox from the UK. However, the mileage on the engine is unknown and there is a slight whine from the gearbox. Additionally, the car just seems to be getting old and I felt that it needs a rebuild especially since I have gone for a single turbo and want it to last for a while reliably. Here is the specs I am going for:

brand new stock blueprinted shortblock (blueprinted by MVP Motorsports)

PHR modified oil pump

APR head studs

Driftworks oil cooler kit

brand new stock head

HKS 264 In/Ex camshafts

PHR valve springs & Titanium retainers

T61 turbo kit

Power Enterprise 650cc Injectors

Autronic SM4 ECU

Autronic 500R CDI

Brand new Getrag V160 gearbox

RPS Max clutch

UK spec brakes

Complete suspension overhaul (want to go with some coilovers but havent decided which ones yet)

TRD thermostat

iForged Daytona wheels

18x11 rear

18x9.5 front

Cant think of anything else now, will add parts as I remember.

the most important thing for a rebuild is conrods + pistons

I m leaving the brakes & suspension till the last. I need to still choose a set of coilovers and I m waiting for my iForged Daytonas

As soon as I opened the head I noticed that there was casting flash in areas of the head and some machining burr in and around the combustion chamber area. I m not sure if this is the way all engine components are supplied but certainly not too impressed with the finish

the head after cleaning up all the leftover metal.

head skim + ecu your using looks good to me;)

the most important thing for a rebuild is conrods + pistons

For a T61 stock would be more than enough, why do you suggest otherwise ?

I would have thought ARP bolts and maybe rods at most

Forgot to add ARP head studs to the list. But they are going in!

I agree with using ARP bolts. Stick them in as a matter of course when you clean the new shortblock, don't assume it's clean because it's new. Stock internals should be ok from what I've seen too.

Valves have been lapped. HKS cams in and checked valve clearance, I need to order in some new shims now

While fitting the PHR single valve springs with titanium retainers, the valve locks just dont seem to sit anywhere near as flush as they do on the stock retainers. I ve emailed PHR about this and they say that its OK, however, my engine builder is extremely hesitant saying that this just doest look right. I m not sure what to do now, if its ok to use stock retainers with these spring then I may do that. Anyone have any experience like this???

If you tap the end of the valve with a rubber mallet and the valve locks don't come out, then that's about as good as they need to be really.

In the normal course of operation they don't see anything like the kind of shock that the mallet would give...

If you tap the end of the valve with a rubber mallet and the valve locks don't come out, then that's about as good as they need to be really.

In the normal course of operation they don't see anything like the kind of shock that the mallet would give...

My engine builder did that, didnt come out. I m thinking of just ordering in a new set of retainers anyways just in case, as my builder is not too keen on the locks sticking out like that as for peace of mind I may go with the stock retainers. What are the advantages of using a titanium retainer anyways? other than weight, which is neglidgible?

Nice, Should scare a few 911 owners.

Also how much was the new Getrag?

PM me if you are selling your old box. I am from Coimbatore.

OT: I see a HPI Baja 5b under a table.