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csa's engine rebuild


csa
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Ok, I guess it's time to do a project thread.

 

As some of you know the car spun a shell back in september and has been in the darkness of the garage since.

 

I finally got around to install the lift in the garage last weekend, and so the job of removing the engine is beginning.

 

Had a few hours to spend this evening so I got the following stuff done (in order of apperance):

 

Removed headlamps

Removed the front end

Removed the hood

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/6738/img9161fc6.jpg

 

Dained the water

Removed breather system

Removed cooler, fan and slam panels

Removed IC piping with Bov and NOS kit

Removed fuelrail and injectors

Started removal of wiring harness

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/8458/img9162ri2.jpg

 

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/2052/img9163xl8.jpg

 

 

As this is my first time I'm taking an engine out of any car, this thread will also help me keeping track of things when I'm assembling it again. (hence all the tape markings on the wires)

So any recommendations would be appreciated :search:

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My advice would be to leave the loom on the engine until it's removed, and just disconnect the engine loom in the LH foot well.

 

Spun a shell means the crank has fused to a bearing shell and instead of the crank pin turning within the shell bearing, the bearing shell has turned within its own housing, either con rod or main bearing housing. neither are good for engine or pocket.

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My advice would be to leave the loom on the engine until it's removed, and just disconnect the engine loom in the LH foot well.

 

Spun a shell means the crank has fused to a bearing shell and instead of the crank pin turning within the shell bearing, the bearing shell has turned within its own housing, either con rod or main bearing housing. neither are good for engine or pocket.

 

Thanks for the explaination. Appreciated. Won't pretend to fully understand other than it's serious and expensive.

 

Good luck CSA :)

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plan is to bearings in it and get everuthing else checked. Still thinking of going all in with rods and pistons but dont know if it's worth is as I wont be aiming for more than 600 tops

 

Chris:

Could you explain why it's better to leave the harness on the engine?

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Replace the rods with spun bearings, not worth trying to resize. Replace the block if a main has spun. Don't grind the crank, a good used one at standard size is far better.

 

has no one had good expierence with a grinded crank?

 

and why can't the block be reused if it a main bearing?

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Seeing as a good used crank is easy to get and inexpensive it's madness to weaken the crank, and if it's had heat input from a spun bearing it's probably no longer straight anyway. Then it'll need re balancing... To have a damaged main bearing(s) resized and line bored and then honed to size will cost about 10 times the price of a good used, none damaged block. Of course, you need to find out WHY this has happened in the first place, and remedy the cause, otherwise it's likely to recur.

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Of course, you need to find out WHY this has happened in the first place, and remedy the cause, otherwise it's likely to recur.

 

this would worry the hell out of me, am i right in thinking this car has spun a shell twice on different blocks (one brand new from Toyota) what power/boost/rpm is it running

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this would worry the hell out of me, am i right in thinking this car has spun a shell twice on different blocks (one brand new from Toyota) what power/boost/rpm is it running

 

I believe the first engine gave up due to a combination of no oil cooler and a 8500rpm rev limit, it was good fun for the 5000 miles it lasted:d

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Seeing as a good used crank is easy to get and inexpensive it's madness to weaken the crank, and if it's had heat input from a spun bearing it's probably no longer straight anyway. Then it'll need re balancing... To have a damaged main bearing(s) resized and line bored and then honed to size will cost about 10 times the price of a good used, none damaged block. Of course, you need to find out WHY this has happened in the first place, and remedy the cause, otherwise it's likely to recur.

 

unfortunately used cranks are very scarce overhere, but maybe someone on the forum can help me in that direction.

...anybody got the partnumber on the crank? could be interesting to see what Toyota would charge for a new unit

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