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The time has come!


fastisnice
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The time has come to build one of the most powerful supras in the UK and beat the skyline times which really annoy me(they always underestimate the supras). I've started buying some ofl the bits and pieces), i just order an SP71 with all the new GT technology and is good for around 850@the wheels with the right bits and pieces, getting a NOS kit(get rid of lag) and building the engine internally, im thinking of getting JE pistons and carillo con-rods, titanium valve retainers and double springs, then remove the rev limiter and set it up to 9K rpm. Boost should be 2 bar, (JE pistons are good for 2 bar? ), fuel kit with all the usual bits and pieces(fuel rail,injectors etc ), TRD or Cusco LSD...I have found the person who will do the engine rebuild and port and polish cylinder head..The guy does the engines for GT-Art! sounds good enough for me.

 

Q: I have found a direct port NOS kit with progressive controller but i need to know its the one i need for my Supra? b4 i pay for it....Now im not familiar with all the different NOS kits/wet/dry blah blah and if its direct port does it have to be wet or dry??

 

Q: Has anyone try JE pistons and will they be good enough for 950-1000bhp??

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Hiya,

 

Sounds like you have set yourself a nice budget.

 

As for the NOS you can get wet and dry in both fogger and direct port.

 

Wet setup injects fuel as well as NOS.

 

Dry setup injects only NOS and fuel needs adding via the normal fuel system.

 

Direct port has more power potential is basically a jet for each cylinder, a fogger is a single jet on the inlet track.

 

You can get alot more from direct port and if you have something like an AEM you can use the normal fuel system to add fuel and also adjust timing for when NOS is active, another bonus with this setup would be that you shouldn`t suffer from fuel puddling.

 

:thumbs:

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950 to 1000 BHP???? OK, let's assume this is a serious project. You need to start with what fuel you intend to run, and build the engine around it. Assuming you actually build a 900 BHP engine with its associated torque then it needs to be effectively delivered to the tarmac. You are looking at a different gearbox, propshaft, diff and driveshafts. The stock rear tyre and wheel size will be ludicrously narrow for a drag race car with that much torque, so tubbing the back end with a live axle and spool "diff" would be the best option. A total rear end rebuild for the car... Massive, massive costs, huge running costs, and then you tip up somewhere with it only to find a Skyline with 4WD and similar power that still gets better traction :innocent:

 

If you want to go fast in a straight line acceleration contest just buy a ready build pro US drag car or rail :)

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Originally posted by Chris Wilson

If you want to go fast in a straight line acceleration contest just buy a ready build pro US drag car or rail :)

 

Yes but he wants a Supra :)

 

He didnt say anything about building the quickest thing out there, but something to compete and post decent times. I dont think theres so much need for all you mentioned to get into the 10's. And thats competetive.

 

Someone post a psec list of the stuff on that Calder Supra and you might have a better idea of whats needed.

 

Still gonna cost you an arm and a leg as Chris says.

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Originally posted by NWS25

I would hold off on buying the pistons, unless you really want to at the moment, as I've heard there's a strong possibilty of a supplier selling Cosworth (i.e JUN) pistons in the near future.

 

Good luck with it all :thumbs:

 

We already do. We have supplied some of the best pistons in the world for a GTR which are custom spec'd by us, in order to handle massive horsepower AND upto 500bhp of Nitrous Oxide.

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Originally posted by Chris Wilson

950 to 1000 BHP???? OK, let's assume this is a serious project. You need to start with what fuel you intend to run, and build the engine around it. Assuming you actually build a 900 BHP engine with its associated torque then it needs to be effectively delivered to the tarmac. You are looking at a different gearbox, propshaft, diff and driveshafts. The stock rear tyre and wheel size will be ludicrously narrow for a drag race car with that much torque, so tubbing the back end with a live axle and spool "diff" would be the best option. A total rear end rebuild for the car... Massive, massive costs, huge running costs, and then you tip up somewhere with it only to find a Skyline with 4WD and similar power that still gets better traction :innocent:

 

If you want to go fast in a straight line acceleration contest just buy a ready build pro US drag car or rail :)

 

NEVER say never!!! :D

 

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/merchant/8sec.shtml

 

MVPMotorsports

PHR/MVP 8 Second Supra

 

The below was achieved on LOW boost. We have yet to run the car on its 41psi setting that attained the 1200+rwhp dyno you see below. We are the first Supra to ever pull its front wheels off the ground. When we say "Supra" we mean one with a stock IRS (Independent Rear Suspension). We do not count Craig Paisley & Vinny Ten's Supras w/ 33" slicks, a 9" ford rear end, welded differential, 1,000+ pounds lighter than stock Supras, etc. The only suspension modifications on our drag supra is 1) set of rear control arms & 2) shocks & springs....and nothing else.

 

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/merchant/89154.gif

 

The Supra rolls on Monocoque 15" wheels at all four corners, with Goodyear 10" slicks providing traction at the drag strip.

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The car won't cost an arm and a leg:), all you need to do is get the right parts for the right price. Now is the time to get the parts from the US or from GAZ;). The dollar is 0.54 to the pound!

 

Gaz i saw at horsepowerfreaks JE pistons:

 

Purchase Make Model Part Number Details MSRP Sale Price

Supra 93-98 JE 210384 2JZGTE, 3.405 Bore, 8.5:1 CR, -14.0 CC Dish (.020 Oversize) 347.13 POUNDS

 

I dont think i need Jun ones unless i would go for 1300bhp or something ridiculous like that.

 

In the US they use JE pistons and i reckon they are good enough for the kind of power im looking for. I dont think that the Standard axles can't take 900bhp!, i do need a TRD LSD or a Cusco RZ to get the power down. - I do have an RLTC.

 

Eagle RODS for:

Purchase Make Model Part Number Details MSRP Sale Price

Supra 93-98 EAGL CRS5590T3D Turbo 336.36 pounds!.

 

The prices are really good!. I dont see the need for buying the most expensive and well know brands, as long as they are forged i think they will do the job..They should be able to take 125 shot of NOS on the top of that and probably i will switch the NOS off after 1.2 bar (just to be on the safe side). I know they cost bit more to get them shipped etc etc.

 

I saw a video clip of an SP71 in the US and i was shocked!, the car was flying and that was on 1.2 bar!!.

 

I dont want a drag race car to have once a year, a Supra will do the job, come on in the US they have 800bhp on standard bottom end and they do go for long time, ok i won't do this because i want my Supra to last for ever but thats why im going internals.

 

As i said axles won't be a problem unless i would go for 1200RWHP and even then if you see the big sups in the US from MVP, JUN, Sound performance, no one ever mention anything about axles (they do have TRD LSDs.

 

The RX-7 i was challenged from, that race will take part over the summer along with a highly tuned Diablo and i will be recording every single race:). The RX-7 has got a triple rotor engine and it is extremely fast!!. I dont know if i will manage ti beat that but with the spec im getting i should have good chances specially if i get him to race on-going. The diablo is about 600bhp (was 494) when i raced, i shouldn't have any problems to humiliate him by a mile or something like that.

 

:flame Dev

 

And yes thats the purpose of building my car to get it to Sanda pod and give a fair race to the skys, i do think its time for them to step down.

 

As i said i'm not going to have the fastest Supra (or car) in the UK but hopefully one of the best..As for traction i think RLTC+LSD+Drag tyres will do the job and the skylines they race on drag tyres(the ones they do the 10's-low 11's). I should be able to match that if not beat it....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:flame Dev

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sounds like a monster project best of luck!!

 

ahh yer racing the pink panther eh? good luck with that too!!

 

*eek*

 

http://www.rx7-gallery.co.uk/bin4sale/pictures/rx73_355

 

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robert.pogmore/temp/out.jpg

 

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robert.pogmore/temp/in.jpg

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Originally posted by Chris Wilson

950 to 1000 BHP???? OK, let's assume this is a serious project. You need to start with what fuel you intend to run, and build the engine around it. Assuming you actually build a 900 BHP engine with its associated torque then it needs to be effectively delivered to the tarmac. You are looking at a different gearbox, propshaft, diff and driveshafts. The stock rear tyre and wheel size will be ludicrously narrow for a drag race car with that much torque, so tubbing the back end with a live axle and spool "diff" would be the best option. A total rear end rebuild for the car... Massive, massive costs, huge running costs, and then you tip up somewhere with it only to find a Skyline with 4WD and similar power that still gets better traction :innocent:

 

If you want to go fast in a straight line acceleration contest just buy a ready build pro US drag car or rail :)

 

Here is part of a conversation of a friend of mine and a skyline tuner today

'i dont know why you supra boys have such problems off the line , when a skyline launches its in RWD ' and they have to run smaller tyres than a sup !!!!!, theres plenty of 9 second street cars in the states in the 9's but remember they have decent tracks to race on , i dont think you will see anywhere near 850 RWHP on pump fuel and the cheapest option after that is Cool Blue at £80 for 25ltrs , to be safe if you want that RWHP you want to run the ELF turbo fuel , i think thats £8 a ltr !!!!!. I wish you luck with this and will enjoy racing you but if you think this will be cheap then i think you need to think again unless you call cheap cicca £20K , are you auto or manual and do you want to drag race or do track days ???

 

Dude:flame Dev

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Skylines start to transfer power through the clutch type centre diff to the front wheels as soon as a percentage of RW slip is seen. So although it may, for a fraction of a second, be in RWD mode, unless it is unable to break rear wheel traction, it will virtually instantly apply hydraulic pressure to the clutch pack that forms the centre "diff" and go into 4WD mode. So while, pedantically speaking, he is correct, in the real worl scenario the Skyline is launched in 4WD mode. Get someone with a big HP Skyline to disable the centre "diff" clutch ( a simple electric mod), so it truely is in 2WD mode, and see if the times alter... ;)

 

As regards fuel, your pal and i are in total agreement. It's plainly, factually and irrefutably obvious a 3 litre engine isn't going to make 900 BHP on pump fuel. I doubt you'd get a safe 600 BHP.

 

I am afraid, as far as US claims go, I take everything any American says about performance claims, and many other things, with a huge pinch of salt... :innocent:

 

If someone has a genuine 900 BHP or even (snigger...) more than that, and its associated torque, then, assuming it hooks up to the road, and it's damned useless if it doesn't, it will break something in the transmission, gearbox or driveline and diff wise. Just how much excess torque handling do folks think car makers build into these things? Torque handlig costs weight and money, and neither are welcome in car production.

 

All in my opinion, contentious as it often is ;)

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Originally posted by Chris Wilson

Skylines start to transfer power through the clutch type centre diff to the front wheels as soon as a percentage of RW slip is seen. So although it may, for a fraction of a second, be in RWD mode, unless it is unable to break rear wheel traction, it will virtually instantly apply hydraulic pressure to the clutch pack that forms the centre "diff" and go into 4WD mode. So while, pedantically speaking, he is correct, in the real worl scenario the Skyline is launched in 4WD mode. Get someone with a big HP Skyline to disable the centre "diff" clutch ( a simple electric mod), so it truely is in 2WD mode, and see if the times alter... ;)

 

As regards fuel, your pal and i are in total agreement. It's plainly, factually and irrefutably obvious a 3 litre engine isn't going to make 900 BHP on pump fuel. I doubt you'd get a safe 600 BHP.

 

I am afraid, as far as US claims go, I take everything any American says about performance claims, and many other things, with a huge pinch of salt... :innocent:

 

 

CW the only bit of the conversation i meant to say was the launch comment and he said that it was more than the first few feet BTW this was gary at GT ART !!!!!

the rest of the thoughts were mine , im in agreement unless you are on a prepped surface with slicks etc 850 rwhp is gonna be a hinderance unless you are building a top speed man. monster , all this brings others issues , see my post in tech that need addressing !!!

 

Dude

If someone has a genuine 900 BHP or even (snigger...) more than that, and its associated torque, then, assuming it hooks up to the road, and it's damned useless if it doesn't, it will break something in the transmission, gearbox or driveline and diff wise. Just how much excess torque handling do folks think car makers build into these things? Torque handlig costs weight and money, and neither are welcome in car production.

 

All in my opinion, contentious as it often is ;)

:flame Dev
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