yet another broken wheel stud

whats going on this is the second one in a month what could be causing it ?

Do you or did you use wheel spacers. I would suspect non hubcentric spacers to cause this. If so you should replace them all.

no spacers being used, wheels have plastic ring adaptor to resize hole to hub

whats going on this is the second one in a month what could be causing it ?

what are they just falling off ? or are they snapping off when you tighten them up, if yes you need a torque wrench

Any photos of these failed studs anywhere?

i just noticed that a nut was missing took closer look and its snapped off car has only been driven back from cw wont be able to get pics up for a few days as working nights:(

no spacers being used, wheels have plastic ring adaptor to resize hole to hub

The wheel spacers could explain it

This was extracted from Chris Wilsons recent post in another thread

Chris Wilson said - Any "proper" wheel will have spigot hole that's a PERFECT fit on the nose of the stock hub, WITHOUT the use of those dreadful ring adaptors. All suspension loads should be transmitted through the nose, NOT the wheel studs. The studs should be PURELY in tension and NOT in shear. The correct spigot hole size also ensures the wheel runs concentric with the hubs. I would STRONGLY advise you ONLY buy forged wheels (like the stock ones). Cast rims may shatter on impact, with immediate tyre deflation, or maybe complete detachment from the hub studs, forged ones bend and stay attached, and short of major impact, the tyre stays inflated. Good wheels are round, and in perfect balance without additional weights. Good wheels are light, but stiff, with good brake ventialtion, and a good heat path from the hub face into the wheels spokes, to promote brake and hub cooling. Good wheels are the right offset. Good wheels are nearly always expansive, bought new. Most aftermarket wheels are junk. Most aftermarket wheel vendors are salesmen and haven't a CLUE what they are doing.

Sounds to me like one of two things, you are over tightening the nut or under tightening, both can cause this.

The wheel spacers could explain it

 

This was extracted from Chris Wilsons recent post in another thread

this true and he explained this to us i beleive that our wheels are inccorect offset cw said they where to wide is this the cause,where can you purchase nice wheels that are supra specific correct offset stud patern and hub centric any pics would be nice,seems rushing in last minute to get wheels is yet another costly mistake we made :(

Sounds to me like one of two things, you are over tightening the nut or under tightening, both can cause this.

what are the torque settings as i have a torque wrench at work and can check them

Now you have owned up to plastic rings I thing you are going to find the studs are badly fatigued. Please change them.

Which wheel has lost a stud now? The OSF had all the studs replaced. I said checck the torque after a reasonable journey, if it's the same hub that's broken another stud, were the other 4 tight still, or is it another wheel? If it's another wheel i would say renew ALL the 3 other wheels studs, as someone has overtightened them in the past. If it's the OSF again, then something horrible is happening and it wants a good coat of looking at. Give me a bell, we'll have a chat and see what it may be.

hey chris its the other front wheel i only driven it back from yours as not had chance to check studs working nights but will grab torque wrench tonight and check them over

bump :D

bump :D

If it's the OSF again, then something horrible is happening and it wants a good coat of looking at.

HTH

Give CW a call to book it in

Case closed

I tighten all nuts holding alloy wheels to 79lbft. We had a front wheel on one of our 200Sx cars, that spat out two nuts shortly after we got it. When we removed all the three studs that were left there were signs of stretching. Since this near disaster, I would change all studs on a hub if one broke. May be over kill, but the alternatives could be deadly.

Get all your studs changed asap.

Yes, I would say it would be prudent to change all the other ones, too. Someone's over tightened them in the past.

I fitted new ones when I put the new wheels on, I always torque them up.

I don't let anyone else remove and refit a wheel if I get a tyre fitted. I always remove it myself and take it to the tyre place in another car.

I snapped a stud a few weeks ago when I changed the front brake pads. Some monkey had really overtightened them. I had to heat almost all of them up and give the nut a good thump to get them off. New studs from Toyota are around £1.90 each.

£10 a wheel is better than a nasty accident.

no spacers being used, wheels have plastic ring adaptor to resize hole to hub

Your wheels should pull central from the chamfer on the nuts anyway .

I would just change the studs as other members have said .

Your wheels should pull central from the chamfer on the nuts anyway .

.

very dangerous assumption. They don't, trust me. You need the hub to centre the wheel and not the nuts, hub-centric spacers all the way. I just got some turned up at work, bespoke to my set-up and made from the correct ally (HB4 IIRC). I would prefer not to have them at all, but can't afford to buy a whole set of alloys. They fit lovely anyway and the car feels so mush more settled. I was running on just the 5 studs and no rings for 4 years:taped: I never realised until a while back that this was so dangerous (the wheels where on the car and like that when I got them).

I am considering changing the studs as well, who knows what stresses and strains these have seen over the years

I have metal spacer rings on my Volks and they are definitely taking the strain of holding the wheel, as they are difficult to get off the hub when I remove the wheel! A good tight fit. Not sure I'd be happy with plastic ones, surely they would have quite a bit of compliance in them, transmitting shear force to the studs?

I'd also like to echo the "change your studs" comments. I had a rear stud shear after someone else did something with the wheels, so I swapped all of the rear studs on both sides, just to make damned sure. They are peanuts, as already mentioned, especially compared to shedding a wheel at god only knows what speed. The fronts should be easier to change than the rears as there is no handbrake mechanism getting in the way.

I believe there is a guide to changing them somewhere

-Ian

I changed my rears to these

thats what we need pics cheers dude im gonna have a go at this myself i think and see if we can find some ally spacers i would make them myself if i were still in my old job:d