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what is a 3.4 stroker kit


allawyg
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Lots.

 

It increases the stoke length of the pistons (how far they move up and down), increasing the overall displacement to create more power. Kits cost lots, fitting usually requires machining the block. Don't go there without £10k ready to spend.

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Lots.

 

It increases the stoke length of the pistons (how far they move up and down), increasing the overall displacement to create more power. Kits cost lots, fitting usually requires machining the block. Don't go there without £10k ready to spend.

 

dont forget all the supporting bits that go around it, or 10k is wasted......

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trust the Danes to lower the tone:D

 

that would have been a pretty good pic had it been a really fit danish bird holding that wang :D

 

back on thread i think the HKS 3.4 kits have had some reliability issues when going for huuuuuge power, iirc Leon Green broke a few then reverted back to stock, however i think the average punter doesn't really shoot for 1200 hp so at "normal" power levels it may not be a problem, unless Eric has any instances of these kits letting go in the States

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I can see the attraction from the simple "displacement is king" point of view, and the idea that "a supra must have a 2jz", but for the same money you can transplant in a properly big motor, rather than grub about for tenths of a litre.

 

couldn't agree more, for the same money i reckon i could do a V8 LS7 with a couple of blowers :cool:

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Good luck fitting the LS7 in there.. let alone with blowers on top..!

 

There's a reason Eric uses the Toyota V8's for his transplants.

 

On a different note, I would never go with the HKS stroker kit. there has been too many issues with snapping the crank at 8000+RPM's.

 

Eighter go Titan or BC (virtually the exact same crank). AFAIK there has been no reported crank failures so far. And some people is running 10.000 RPM on the BC unit.

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You still have to be concerned with the custom clutch, tranny adapter, custom motor mounts, custom subframe, etc. It's defintiely not a plug and play and by the time your'e all in, you may as well have gone for the Toyota V8TT :) Having the core motor is only about 5% of the total job, it's only after the core arrives does the real cost and labor begin. That's why the Toyota V8 swaps are so attractive. We can supply the entire V8 and swap kit, soup to nuts, and you can drop the V8 in right off the pallet the afternoon that it arrives.

 

Eric

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You still have to be concerned with the custom clutch, tranny adapter, custom motor mounts, custom subframe, etc. It's defintiely not a plug and play and by the time your'e all in, you may as well have gone for the Toyota V8TT :) Having the core motor is only about 5% of the total job, it's only after the core arrives does the real cost and labor begin. That's why the Toyota V8 swaps are so attractive. We can supply the entire V8 and swap kit, soup to nuts, and you can drop the V8 in right off the pallet the afternoon that it arrives.

 

Eric

 

Yep, the cost of the install of small block is not insigificant, with the LS1 and T56 you'd be looking around £10k fully fitted. From what Eric's been saying this is around the same price as the 2UZ.

 

Despite the ease of fitting the UZ engine I still think the LS* installation is the better option for those that are willing to take on the challenge. It's got more future potential for power (without forced induction) and parts are FAR more available and cost effective.

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Are we talking a bone stock LS1 vs. a built 2uz 4.7L, though?

 

Eric

 

Pretty much. The LS would be stock more or less, high flow headers and a remap are the only changes.

 

It'd be slightly less power to begin with, but the future potential of the LS is enormous, cost effective and has parts available off the shelf.

 

Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking the UZ conversion here, it's a very attractive alternative and am still tempted myself. The LS install is far, far more complex so would never recommend it to anyone wanting a plug-and-play install.

 

I'd still like to see one of the UZ engines on a reputable dyno here to see what sort of power it puts out. There is always a major difference between US and UK dyno figures.

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Yeah, the thing to remember as well is that the dyno is just another tool in the belt. Even if the car makes 600rwhp on dyno A and 1000rwhp on dyno B, the main goal is to have the car wind out smoothly to redline and perform within reason. Dyno sheets are good but always should be taken for reference rather than gospel.

 

Thanks!

 

Eric

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