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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

what oil do you use


Duffman
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time for an oil change as supe due service...supe is still pretty standard but will be fitting cat-back, 1st decat, RR, fuel pump, FCD after MOT. Currently has iridium plugs, 2nd decat, FMIC fitted.

 

have read all the articles on this but still cant decide on an oil

 

oil will be getting changed before MOT next week...then will be going BPU(fitting the mods stated above)

 

what oil would be best for this...will i have to change to a different oil because i will be adding mods for BPU?

 

Cheers

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do you know his number mate :D

 

its all here :)

 

HOW CAN OPIE OILS HELP YOU?

 

What Offers would you like to see from OPIE OILS?

 

Opie Oils strives to offer the best products at the most competitive prices delivered to your door for Members and Subscribers here.

 

We make offers from time to time across a lot of Clubs and Forums which we feel may be of interest but we are always looking at ways of making more bespoke offers that are relevant to your cars and budgets.

 

To assist us in looking into different offers, product packages and possible new product lines we would be most grateful for your input.

 

If you feel that we are not offering the right products, packages or prices and you have a suggestion or a particular “Group Buy” that you would like to see, please post it here and we will investigate and get back to you.

 

If you do not want to post your suggestions or comments here, you can always send them via email to Tim or Guy at [email protected]

 

If you’ve never heard of us but would like to know what we offer apart from Discounts just for being here, you’ll find our website here http://www.opieoils.co.uk

 

Cheers

The Opie Oils Team.

 

 

__________________

 

oilmans website : http://www.opieoils.co.uk/

e-mail : [email protected]

tel : 01209 215164

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threads like this do annoy me a bit when people just state they use brand x for no rhyme or reason, so heres mine with some justification as well - Halfords fully synthetic - i have now run my Supra for nearly 8 years on it, 3 years at 1.2 bar BPU then nearly 3 years at 1.4 bar single turbo, changed twice a year and the motor has 120k on it and runs like a swiss watch, can anyone match this whos using any of the "cool named oils" ? or what their justification for using brand x is

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Thanks for the link :)

 

My only concern with 5w40 fully-synthetic oil is that when I got the car it was running 10w-40 semi synthetic, and considering the car is 11 years old not sure if it would be advisable to go for even thinner oil or do you think I should be ok? Although the car is 11 years old, it has only done 70K miles and will shortly be BPU hopefully.

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i just got my recommendation through from opie and that was 5w-40 fully synthetic, thats what i'll be using aswell as my knowledge of oils is pretty sparse. Was going to go with castrol edge but there's only 4litres in the jar which means by the time you buy another litre your almost at the price of a 5litre jar of silkolene pro s.

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The "what oil" question always causes a lot of conjecture, and has been done to death! if people just read the facts about oil,instead of all the hype and miss information, good write up in one of oil mans threads,

Provided the oil meets required spec, and viscosity then its fine, to me putting in a niche name over specked oil into a 13 year old engine design, who's original designers, only had 13 year old oil specs to work from, is a complete waste of money, when you change it after 3-5,000mls;)

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Provided the oil meets required spec, and viscosity then its fine, to me putting in a niche name over specked oil into a 13 year old engine design, who's original designers, only had 13 year old oil specs to work from, is a complete waste of money, when you change it after 3-5,000mls;)

 

fully agree with this, however i think the point will be missed by most

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I did some analysis of the two oils

Silkolene PRO S 10W-50 engine oil

Red line oil 15W 50

Bascially Silkolene has better protection on cold start ups, higher Viscosity Index and

will generate higher oil pressure

 

I use Silkolene PRO S 10W-50 engine oil, Motul V400 is excellent too

 

 

Analysis

 

Redline -- http://www.putfile.com/pic/4887460/?action=zoom

 

Silkolene -- http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/PRO%20S%20RANGE.pdf

 

 

Viscosity Grade – Given as two values typically at 40 deg C and 100 deg C (this sheet also shows deg F). Both viscosities are shown in centistrokes (cSt), but can also shown in Saybolt Universal Seconds (SUS) usually at 100 deg F. You can convert using the following formula:

 

SUS @ 100 deg F/5=cSt @ 40 deg C

 

To convert SUS to cSt:

 

cSt= 0.226xSUS-(195/SUS)

 

The value given at 40 deg c is the ability of the oil to flow when cold (if you want to call 100 deg F cold)…the lower this value is, the better. It represents viscosity on that 1st start in the morning. The value at 100 deg C is the viscosityof the oil at operating temp….resistance to flow at this viscosity and temperature is what gives you the oil pressure you look for at 3000 rpm on the 7M engine.

 

Viscosity Index- indicates the rate of change in oil viscosity within a given temperature range. Higher numbers indicate a low change; lower numbers indicate a relatively large change. The higher the viscosity index, the better. This is one major property of oil that keeps your bearings happy. These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range. It is not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown.

 

The next sets of numbers on this sheet are just different methods of expressing viscosity. The HTHS viscosity does provide an indication of how the oil reacts when very hot (150 deg C)

 

Pour Point– This is the temperature where 5 degrees F above the point at which chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter. A borderline pumping temperature is given by some manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. Pump temperature is not given by a lot of the manufacturers, but appears to be about 20 degrees F above the pour point. The lower the pour point, the better.

 

Flash Point- the temperature at which oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame. Lower the flash point indicates a greater tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls/pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point, the better…400 deg F is about the minimum to prevent possible high consumption.

 

NOACK Evaporation Loss– Also known as NOACK Volatility. The Noack test determines how much weight loss an oil experiences through volatization. The test reports results in the percentage, by weight, lost due to "boil-off" at the temperature specified. The more motor oils vaporize, the thicker and heavier they become, contributing to poor circulation, reduced fuel economy, increased oil consumption, wear, and emissions. A maximum of 15 percent evaporation loss is allowable to meet API SL and ILSAC GF-3 specifications.

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