Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Questions about MKIV Supra before I decide to buy


Guest ukno0003
 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest ukno0003

I own a 2005 scion tC right now but have always wanted a MKIV Supra. As I was looking to buy the tC, I was also looking at a 93 supra N/A. I was going to get the supra but in a long story short the seller screwed me over and I ended up getting the tC cause I needed a car pretty quick.

 

Ever since I bought the tC I have continued looking for a Supra (3 years). I think I finally may have found one that I might sell me tC for and buy. It is a 94 n/a.

 

The Supra was daily driven by an older man and was babied, it is completely stock and all the maintenance has been kept up to date on it. It has high mileage but all the timing belt, alternator, water pump. ect... has all been changed. This is what i have been looking for.

 

The supra is my dream car but I am wondering how reliable the supra would be for me being high mileage. Im kind of concerned because I will be going from a 2005 tC with 36k miles on it that i have had since it was new, to a 94 supra with over 150k miles on it. Im going through college so a reliable car is very important to me. If I were to get the Supra i would continue to baby it just as I have babied my tC.

 

The tC is an extremely reliable car but I would love to be an owner of a MKIV supra because it is my absolute dream car. I know the 2jz is an incredible motor and is extremely reliable. But how reliable would the supra be? Do I have anything to worry about?

 

Im going to see the car and drive it this week so Im trying to do all my research before I get there.

 

Thanks,

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest ukno0003

The guy has babied the car. kept up with al the service and everything. Im going to get the car checked out by a dealer if it seems good when I go drive it. im just kind of worried that it wont be reliable and cause me a bunch of problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's more age related stuff than milage really. Also general condition too, a car with TLC lavished on it will be better than something that has been run on a budget, regardless of milage imo.

Yes, I would be looking at the general condition of the car as it's easier to recognise if the car has been looked after properly.

 

150k miles isn't a problem at all if it's been regularly serviced.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest ukno0003

thanks guys for the responses, If when i get to see the car it passes my visual inspection, I will take it to a toyota dealer to have them do a visual and a mechanical inspection.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A Guide On Buying A MKIV Supra

When you first get there

 

 

When you first get there, ask to see the log book and match up the chassis number. - If there's anything questionable here, walk away. - Don't wait for excuses

 

Find out what oil the use, and how often (don't trust their answer unless they have receipts/proof)

 

Ask them if they have had any work done to it. If they have owned it for several years, and say they have done nothing to it, don't take that as being a completely good thing.

 

 

Ask if it has ever had modifications, and what.

 

 

Make sure it still has the spare tyre, jack and spanners, owner’s manual, and targa wrench.

 

 

Try to get the repair records - If the owner refuses any of this, be suspicious.

 

 

Engine Bay

 

With the bonnets open carefully put your hand down to the exhaust manifold to see if the cars been run recently. - If it's cold, ask him to start the car up while you're at the back and look at the exhaust. A small puff of blue smoke is OK, but anymore than a puff and walk away. If it's cold, expect some white smoke. It shouldn't be excessive though. If the car is warm, it should only give a small blue puff at worst.

 

If cold, the engine should start and idle at about 1200 rpm for about 2 minutes then drop to 1000 for another couple and be stable at 700 after another couple. - The engine should idle smooth and purr happily with no misfires or rattles. (The flywheel can rattle, but this should go if you press the clutch down. - Indicating a new clutch/flywheel is on the cards)

 

Let the car warm up and continue to stand behind the car checking for smoke

 

 

Now go back and watch the exhaust for smoke, have someone blip the throttle, while you watch for smoke, let it idle between the blips

 

 

Now do the same but have them mash the gas and rev it up till like 5000rpm or so

 

 

Check all of the fluids; make sure the fluid isn't terrible. Open the oil fill cap, and look inside for sludge build-up (you shouldn't see any

 

 

Interior

 

Make sure to test every last switch in the car to make sure it works (power windows, locks, turn signals, light switch, dome lights, power seat, cruise control, everything). Use all the functions on the A/C and make sure they all work. Go from HOT to COLD A/C and make sure it's getting very hot, and very cold. If it has a factory alarm, make sure the key-fobs work.

 

 

Check the interior for excessive wear

 

 

Exterior/Body

 

Make sure the rear hatch opens and closes fine, and that is stays up on it own.

 

 

Make sure all the doors open and close smoothly

 

 

When checking under the car for leaks, don’t be alarmed by an oily sludge on the transmission and differential. That’s a greasy undercoating that Toyota applied. But check for fresh oil leaks, and check the rear CV joint boots for cracks.

 

 

If possible, look at the spot where the car normally parks. Check for fresh oil puddles or spots. If they say their other car caused the spot, don't believe them if it's a clean 1-2 year old car they are blaming it on.

 

 

Check the wheel rim, inside and out, for curb rash or bent rims.

 

 

Check for excessive or uneven wear on the tires

 

 

Check for cheap or miss-matched tires

 

 

Look into the driver side front air duct and you should see the stock intercooler. For a Jap car it shouldn't be corroded, but may be dented. Look around here and inside the main bumper opening for over spray and/or accident damage.

 

Look under the rear of the car. You should be able to see most of the exhaust system, check for undercarriage dents/scrapes. Again look for overspray/accident damage.

 

Look to see if all the little plastic panels and parts under the car all line-up, and are attached, and that paint is not where it shouldn't be (cracked under trays are not uncommon, don't be alarmed). Spend a fair amount of time on the ground; don't be afraid to get a little dirty. Also all the major body panels have the original VIN number visibly stuck on them, make sure they are all still there and are the right number. Look for missing, non-original, or out of place fasteners. All these things are possible signs off a collision.

 

 

Check the condition of all the exposed rubber on the suspension joints

 

 

Make sure the gaps in the body panels are all even, if it has a badly fitted kit, it could be a badly fixed crashed/damaged car.!

 

 

Walk all around the car, and look at each panel at different angles. Looks for small dents and dings, and make sure the paint matches all around.

 

 

Look over the paint condition very closely

 

 

Another good place to specifically check for overspray is on the plastic surrounds on the side windows. This is such a difficult area to mask and evenly get paint into that a simple run of the finger just under the plastic will reveal a rough (over-sprayed) finish.

 

Check around all the glass to see if it has been replaced. Check the manufacturer information on the glass to see if they are all the same.

 

 

Make sure all the exterior lights work

 

 

Check the headlamps for cracks, fogging/yellowing especially if it’s an Import (UK Car does not have this problem)

 

 

The Drive

 

Make sure the power steering is smooth and quiet

 

 

Now have a friend follow behind you in another car while you go for a test drive

 

 

Have him watch for smoke while you drive-Put it in 2nd gear, let the rpm drop to about 1500, and then stomp on it, and stay on it till redline, and then let off. Your friend should be watching for "grey/blue smoke". Just grey/black smoke is ok.

 

 

 

Smoke at cold start-up, leaving a traffic light, or throttle blipping from idle is valve stem seals. Smoke under boost, or after letting off of boost, or maybe when revving full throttle, is turbo seals. Smoking for no good reason, or if it doesn't stop pretty quickly is piston rings (may get better or worse when hot).

 

 

Your job while at full throttle in 2nd is making sure the turbots boost fine (smoothly), that you can feel full boost by 4000rpm or near it, and that you don't hear bad noises (slight turbo whistle/whine is ok, if it has an intake it will be noticeable)

 

 

Use all the gears in the transmission, and make sure it shifts fine (if it is a 6spd, it is going to feel and sound clunky too you, that’s normal. If the transmission makes "ball bearings in a can" sounds at idle or low speeds, that is 2-piece sprung flywheel and is normal)

 

 

While driving with the windows down, listen for clicking or popping noises coming from outside the car. (A POP when starting or stopping, or making a sharp low speed turn (maybe up a hill), is the drivers side engine mount. A clicking sound under initial mild acceleration or deceleration, that lasts for only a second or two then stops, and sounds exactly the same regardless of speed, is the rear upper control arm bushings. A clicking that changes with speed is wheel bearings)

 

 

Make sure the brakes work smoothly and reasonably quietly. When coming to a stop take your hand slightly off the wheel and make sure it stays straight.

 

 

Make sure the car tracks straight on flat roads.

 

 

A creaking noise from the hatch when turning up hill means it needs rubber hatch bumpers.

 

 

Rattling from above you means the targa is loose (make sure the targa bolts loosen, and tighten back down smoothly) and make sure the targa wrench is there.

 

 

 

If you can really smell the exhaust when coming to a stop, it has no cats

 

 

If when flooring it, the car pulls smoothly till ~4000rpm, and then rockets forward like getting hit with a truck, then it's BPU and not stock. If you can hardly feel a change over from the 1st turbo to both, then it's stock.

 

 

When you drive the car, the first turbo should be noticeable as a whistle, and the 2nd turbo should come in at 3800-4000rpm. You shouldn't be able to hear either turbo at high rpm. The engine should be louder! - It's normal to get a slight hesitation as the 2nd turbo comes in but it should be very minor.

 

 

If you can, get up to 100 mph and apply the brakes consistently down to about 40 mph. You should feel no judder from the wheels or pedal. The Jap brakes warp easily

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Try to take a level-headed friend with you who you can trust. This may sound like a lot to do, but really it's not, most of these things take no more than a second to do. Make sure to always go look at a car on a bright sunny day, and make sure you and the seller will have plenty of time (don't rush anything) Any problems you find (and your likely to find a few) should not mean you shouldn't buy the car. But you need to know what you are getting into, and whether the price is reasonable. Always negotiate. People are almost always willing to come down some on their asking price. And be prepared to walk away as hard as it may be.

 

I hope you may have found this guide of some use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest ukno0003

lui that post will help me out a ton, thank you for the help. Yea Ill be riding with someone pretty knowledgeable and level headed up to see it. Ill follow the steps stated above except the ones that refer to a TT because it is a N/A. Ill do all these steps and then ill take it to a dealer for an inspection by them also. I appreciate all the replies and input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest ukno0003

Do you think it would be smart if I were to get it, Swap the 2jzge out with a lower mileage engine(still the same 2jzge) to make it more reliable(I know the 2jz is basically fine with over 150k but thats still alot of miles). Ive looked and I can get one with 40k-60 miles on it for a little over 1k. And at the same time as I do the swap get a turbo kit for it(low boost just to get between 300 and 400 whp since it would just be a DD) and do everything at once? I think I could do all of that for a manageable amount of money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have had my supra about 8 months now, and its on 130k miles and about 13 years old. The engine dosn't miss a beat and i've never had any issues with it. The rest of the car is showing its age though. In the past two months I've had my rear wheel bearing and hub changed and a rear top arm replaced.

 

Don't be put of though, because I had 6 months of good motoring and I'm sure it will be a while till i have any more problems.

 

If you got money to replace the engine and get a turbo kit, could you not put the extra money towards a low milage newer supra?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest ukno0003

Because a lower mileage supra will run me between 15-20k probably and this one is selling for under 10k and the difference in money between my car now an that car is a pretty big and ive got some money laying around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Because a lower mileage supra will run me between 15-20k probably and this one is selling for under 10k and the difference in money between my car now an that car is a pretty big and ive got some money laying around.

 

Sorry your paying $10K for an N/A? Damn you can have mine and get change!

 

Edit: The cost of importing might be expensive :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have recently sold my supra with 120k mileage it drove better than every other supra i test driven and have been in (n/a's). As long as it has full history loads of reciepts and is in good condition their shouln't be a problem.

Changing the engine? again how do you know the donor engine has a genuine 40-60k?

 

good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest ukno0003

marbleapple, hah i think the importing to the US from England would be kinda pricey.

 

jonahjones26, I am going to go drive it saturday and that will help with my decision alot. Ive found companys that import engines to the US from japan and they say the engines are fully checked out with between 40k and 60k miles.

 

Do you guys think I would even need to swap out for a lower mileage engine? I would just be kinda concerned about boosting a engine with 150k miles on it even if it is excellent condition.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine is a TT but at 126k miles now and still running sweet. It's basically the same engine and if it's been looked after and serviced regularly then I don't see the problem, it certainly wouldn't put me off. I've seen TT's with 200k+ miles on them and still running absolutely fine with good servicing. I think Chris Wilson services or did service a very high mileage one?

 

Getting it and swapping the engine is a waste of time and money, it won't make it any more reliable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.