Robzki Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 Hi all I finally got round to fitting the greddy boost gauge I got from jezz a looong time ago 1] I have plumbed this in to the pipe that used to control the stock bov, is this ok? or would I better off closer to the plenum? my way does seem to run a very long way tbh, wasn't sure whether it would affect the reading 2] It is an electronic type, I have left all the electrickery in behind the dash, and run a long pipe out through a grommet next to the brake master cylinder. Would It be more accurate if I kept the pipe as short as possible and run the sensor inside the engine bay as close to the pickup as possible? 3] Is this grommet ok to use? as I keep reading about running wires/pipes etc inside the inner wing and into the engine bay that way. just seemed too easy this way 4]Should the pipe have a filter? 5] my box that controls the gauge(datalink?) only has 3 wires, Black, white, and red. the colours seem self explanatory. Ie: Black=Ground White=illumination Red=12v. but..... If I run a 12v constant then the gauge is always live. I Didn't really like this way so I wired it to ignition. I thereby lose the memory(last boost) after the ignition is switched off. but this doesn't worry me. I was more concerned with the box/gauge being left on with the key out. So is this way ok/normal? normally there is a 12v constant and a 12v ignition. has me puzzled. can't find anything on the greddy site or searches on here.. 5] Also the illumination doesn't work. I have a feed to the box(power probed) when I switch the lights on, So I assume the bulb may have gone? are the bulbs easily changable? theres nothing obvious on the outside of the gauge so assume I have to open it up? anyone done this? Thanks, any questions you answer will give me peace of mind. I have searched but not really found anything definitive. take care Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted October 12, 2008 Author Share Posted October 12, 2008 Almost forgot 6] Its running at 500 mm/hg vacuum at idle. 0.5-0.6bar 1st turbo and 0.7-0.8bar 2nd turbo. only had 1 blast up the road to check and with no illumination it was getting dark so hard to read. Does this sound relatively normal? stock auto j-spec Also when on gentle throttle with turbos building boost a quick glance at the gauge shows its still below 0bar, only when on WOT on near does it get to what I'd expect. which is why I asked about the length of pipe etc. maybe acting as a buffer? Thanks again an appreciative Rob Oh and thanks to L33 for the shiny blue pipe great to meet you and the missus btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 1> Seems fine to me. A long connection shouldn't matter here as there is minimal air flow. The pressure drop is negligible. The only difference it might make is the response time to a change in pressure. Don't worry though, I doubt the human eye could see the difference. 2> Shouldn't make much difference here again TBH. Since you have already wired it up, I'd just leave it as it is. If anything, the lower temperatures experienced in the cabin will increase the life expectancy of the electronics. 3> That grommet is where a clutch would go. As long as you are not planning a manual conversion in the future you'll be fine. 4> I doubt it's necassary. You're taking air from behind the main air filter. 5> Sorry, can't help you there. If you know that there is 12V on the illumination connection when your lights are on then it does point to a blown bulb. 6> These figures sound OK. You won't see any boost with the throttle just cracked open (even with the turbos boosting) as the throttle plate is blocking the boost air (Surprisingly!). If you were to put a second boost gauge in, measuring the pressure before the throttle, you would see boost building up here. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duffman Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 (edited) Hi all I finally got round to fitting the greddy boost gauge I got from jezz a looong time ago 1] I have plumbed this in to the pipe that used to control the stock bov, is this ok? or would I better off closer to the plenum? my way does seem to run a very long way tbh, wasn't sure whether it would affect the reading 2] It is an electronic type, I have left all the electrickery in behind the dash, and run a long pipe out through a grommet next to the brake master cylinder. Would It be more accurate if I kept the pipe as short as possible and run the sensor inside the engine bay as close to the pickup as possible? 3] Is this grommet ok to use? as I keep reading about running wires/pipes etc inside the inner wing and into the engine bay that way. just seemed too easy this way 4]Should the pipe have a filter? 5] my box that controls the gauge(datalink?) only has 3 wires, Black, white, and red. the colours seem self explanatory. Ie: Black=Ground White=illumination Red=12v. but..... If I run a 12v constant then the gauge is always live. I Didn't really like this way so I wired it to ignition. I thereby lose the memory(last boost) after the ignition is switched off. but this doesn't worry me. I was more concerned with the box/gauge being left on with the key out. So is this way ok/normal? normally there is a 12v constant and a 12v ignition. has me puzzled. can't find anything on the greddy site or searches on here.. 5] Also the illumination doesn't work. I have a feed to the box(power probed) when I switch the lights on, So I assume the bulb may have gone? are the bulbs easily changable? theres nothing obvious on the outside of the gauge so assume I have to open it up? anyone done this? Thanks, any questions you answer will give me peace of mind. I have searched but not really found anything definitive. take care Rob fitted one of these the other week 1. yes plumb in there 2. i mounted my sensor next to the charcoal canister...hose was only maybe 18" long 3. yes thats the right grommet 4. wot do u mean a filter m8...mine doesnt have any filters on it and works just fine 5. mine had a black(ground), red(12v constant), white(illumination), orange(12v ignition), yellow...didnt use this As for the illumination not working...i would double check that all connections are good. e.g. wen i fitted mine the other week i was having problems and it was only wen i was removing the electrical taps i used that i noticed they hadnt actually broken throught the wire as its very thin on the gauge...so make sure all connections gd 6. yeah all those figures look spot on bud keep us posted on how it goes Edited October 13, 2008 by Duffman (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted October 13, 2008 Author Share Posted October 13, 2008 Andy/Sean Thanks m8s, appreciate your time to answer. I'll leave it as it is for the time being . only had a quick check on sunday as I'm not allowed to use the car during the week. the missus uses it to commute to school(voted the coolest teacher in the school ). you have given the assurances I needed as for the illumination, I'll take the dash out again and check for cracked wiring as this makes a lot of sense. Its why I mounted the electrics in behind the dash. they seem to have suffered from engine bay heat in the past. Andy, I was confused by the boost reading while turbos were spooling. but you make complete sense. its because I was getting the pickup from the stock bov mounting. so in my mind I was picking up from before the butterfly, as I was connecting on the intake side of the engine, Doh! Must be 'overtired' thank you m8. Thanks to you both Take care Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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