How much to change all four brake pads?

Just booked my car in to have all four brake pads and brake fluid changed and I have been quoted £130 just for labour.

I already have the fluid and pads (thanks to Chris Wilson for sending them so quickly) so I thought this price was a little steep.

I've never paid to change my brake pads before as a friend used to do them for me (now lives abroad) so I have no idea how much this should cost - How much have you paid?

Depends on the hourly rate of the garage you have spoken to, this will make all the difference, I would ring around if you are not happy but it does not sound unreasonable to me

get a mate to do them, i was lucky and got mine on my old car done for 20 quid

Depends on the hourly rate of the garage you have spoken to, this will make all the difference, I would ring around if you are not happy but it does not sound unreasonable to me

£55 per hour - just wasn't sure how long it should take and wont get a chance to call around today

get a mate to do them, i was lucky and got mine on my old car done for 20 quid

Thats what I used to pay plus a few beers which is why I thought it was a bit high - I don't have any mechanic mates anymore, both left the country (might be something to do with me) - any offers?

If you are mechanically minded, look up one of the how-to guides on here. Changing the pads is pretty straight forward, and I gather the fluid just get's pulled through and topped up as you go round.

Shouldn't take you too long, couple of hours tops.

Edit: How to change brake pads

If you are mechanically minded, look up one of the how-to guides on here. Changing the pads is pretty straight forward, and I gather the fluid just get's pulled through and topped up as you go round.

 

Shouldn't take you too long, couple of hours tops.

I've got the manuals showing how to do it just not the right tools - It will be easier to pay someone to do it

Pads and fluid = about 2 hours so £130 is about right.

lol your having a laugh do them yourself they are the most easiest thing to do

I've got the manuals showing how to do it just not the right tools - It will be easier to pay someone to do it

Not sure you need any special tools, I did mine not so long ago and I just have a standard toolkit.

Bleeding the system might be different though....

HTH

I see lots of scrap J-Spec front calipers from DIY fluid changes where the bleed nipple is overtightened. If he's openly unhappy about messing with the braking system encouraging him to attempt this may be a little Cavalier, IMHO

For that hourly rate I suppose 130 isn't a rip off.

Quick-Fit () are offering free pads and shoe's at the moment so you could go and find out what the fitting costs are.

At no point to i recommend Quick-Fit nor do i use them for any work on my own car

Just booked my car in to have all four brake pads and brake fluid changed and I have been quoted £130 just for labour.

Just thought I'd revive this.

I asked for a quote from Toyota a while ago for a complete service changing everything and nearly pissed myself at some of it.

Front pads £170.00 inclusive.

Rear pads £140.00 inclusive.

Now given that the rears pads are £35 and the fronts Approx £60 I think, that makes £105 in labour for changing the rear pads. And £110 for the fronts.

Now I'm as far from a mechanic as Carlos Tevez is to good looks, but I had my my rear pads off and on last night using the scissor jack (and stands) in half an hour. It really is a very easy thing to do. There's nothing that can go wrong really.

Now if they work as fast as I do (which, believe me, isnt that hard really) that would appear to make the hourly rate they wanted to be £210 for doing the rears if they took the same time as me.

Or am I missing something here?

Strangely, as far as I can see anyway, they quoted £140 inclusive for doing the plugs:

Spark plugs are an addition to this service, £140 inclusive

Personally I would think the NA sparks are a nightmare to do - compared to swapping some pads over. £60 for the plugs and £80 for labour.

.....

Personally I would think the NA sparks are a nightmare to do - compared to swapping some pads over. £60 for the plugs and £80 for labour.

They aren't as bad as you think to be honest, once you know how it is almost as quick as doing them on the TT (and probably less bolts )

The pads arent the problem, i think he is nervous about the fluid change. Have you got braided lines? if not now is the time to fit those too.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=120701&highlight=howto+change+brake+pads

Changing pads costs around 40 pounds, changing fluid would prolly cost around additional 30 pounds if that.

They aren't as bad as you think to be honest, once you know how it is almost as quick as doing them on the TT (and probably less bolts )

Dont wanna take this into a different direction, but I've got the plugs I want to change. But just dont really have the bollocks to do it. The coilpack area seems a bit of a nightmare to me - and you can garuntee that i'd deffo break at least one of them along the way.

Changing pads costs around 40 pounds, changing fluid would prolly cost around additional 30 pounds if that.

This is verbatim what they sent me mate... and they gave me part prices as well but wouldnt break down (ho ho) what types. Dunno what engine oil they're using but was only £38.

oil filter 7.39

sump washer 0.83

oil 38.00

air filter 23.67

fuel filter 29.23

spark plugs 60.18

front pads 58.10

rear pads 32.16

brake fluid 6.11

antifreeze (forlife) 15.27

gear oil 23.10

diff oil 15.40

Full service £282.00 includes parts, labour and VAT

Spark plugs are an addition to this service, £140 inclusive.

Front pads £170.00 inclusive.

Rear pads £140.00 inclusive.

Coolant change £53.00 inclusive.

Gear oil (ATF) £41.24 inclusive.

Brake fluid change £21.15 inclusive.

Diff oil would be changed as part of a full service.

If timing belt requires renewal add £315.

Thank you

XXXXXXXXX

Parts Manager.

Makes me laugh, some of the quotes, i know garages have to make money, but if a reasonable mechanic cant change an axle set of pads in 15 mins, and another 10 to bleed, with the tools available to him at any reasonably equipped garage then, well:eyebrows:

I'm far from a mechanic but changing pads with axle stands, trolly jack and basic socket set takes no more than an hour and a half, and most of that time is jacking up the car, removing the wheels and putting them back on again and re-torquing.

Need a bit of help here guys.

Right, firstly disregard anything I've said about Toyota servicing costs

As I said earlier, I took my pads off last night and replaced them with the same ones, as I was just trying to see how easy it was for when I picked up my pads today. Bear in mind they were well worn. So far so good. Piece of piss to remove and put back the worn ones. Wheels back on and done and dusted in half an hour.

Got the new pads today. Wheels off, pads on. But can I for the life of me push the POT back in to get the callipers to fit over the new (yes thicker) new pads. Can I hell.

It would appear its solidly out. I've tried the hammer handle, not even a budge. Tried the socket extension. No Joy. Even give it a few taps with the hammer and a piece of wood. The f*ker aint for going in. Should they be easy to push in?

Can someone please tell me Im being too easy with it, or I've missed a step somewhere. Because at the moment I'm thinking seized callipers - and thats not a good place for me to be at the moment. Hoping its just the brake oil pressure already there - but I have my doubts.

If it is the callipers, how do you take them off and try and get the pot back in? Disconnect the brake hose (I presume the oill will then drain out?) and take it somewhere sturdy to try and push back in?

Any quick help appreciated as I WAS gonna wash and wax the bugger tonight.

Toyota - I take back all I said

When I had this problem I removed the break hose from the calliper and pushed it back in with my hands and a small bit of 2"x1"

However doing this will require you to bleed the system, which didn't matter as I was replacing the hoses with braided ones.

Another tip, if the car has been driven an hour or two before you remove and fit new pads, first pump the brake peddle a few times as the vacuum in the servo will still be present and make pushing the cylinders back impossible;)

Another tip for four pots, remove one pad then slide in a thiner piece of metal that covers both cylinders, and then use a leaver to move the cylinders back in, slide in the new pad and then repeat the process on the other side;)

Oh! and keep an eye on the master cylinder to make sure it doesn't overflow.

Thought that might be the case

However, as much as I thought it would be a piece of piss to swap a couple of bits of metal over, I really have no idea how to bleed the brakes, and more inportantly no-one to help. I was (obviously wrongly) confident of doing the pads.

I've got 2 bottles of Motul 5.1 brake fluid as I was going to replace the fluid after doing all the pads. After a good read up and making myself a lttle procedure crib sheet up. That appears to have gone out the window now.

If its just the pressure from the brake fluid, which I presume it is if disconnecting the brake hose allows the pot back in, then surely unlessed they're seized in the out position, I should be able to overcome that just by applying more force.

I really dont want to get into the position of pressurising myself into doing the brake fluid change - as I now I'll f*ck it up if dive in right now.

Another tip, if the car has been driven an hour or two before you remove and fit new pads, first pump the brake peddle a few times as the vacuum in the servo will still be present and make pushing the cylinders back impossible;)

Car hasnt been used at all today mate.

Bugger!!!!!

Off to have another pop of brute force over intelligence I think.

Just changed my front pads yesterday.

Cost £86 for front pads including shims from Toyota.

Took me about 1.5 hours to do both in the rain.

Very straight forward job and worth every penny. I cant get over how much better they feel.

Well, I won in the end

But nothings simple with my car - oh no.

Any ideas as to why one set of pads (drivers side) would be worn down a lot. And yet the passengers side show hardly any wear at all?

 

Any ideas as to why one set of pads (drivers side) would be worn down a lot. And yet the passengers side show hardly any wear at all?

thats odd..............possibly a whole caliper has been changed and they left the pads that came with it in?

BTW i'd feel your wheels (possibly calipers - just be careful) after your next drive just to check for excessive heat build up or a difference in heat one side from the other...........which might identify a sticking caliper.

oh and well done