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My gauges Picture


Guest Nizam
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Hi mate's im just showing my photo of my three gauges which is already done. some member ask me they wanna see my picture .

 

i try to picture on my old thread but it closed.

 

anyway what you think of my picture?

 

pic below

 

http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk6/Nizam_209/?action=view&current=Image000-1.jpg

 

http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk6/Nizam_209/?action=view&current=Image039.jpg

 

http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk6/Nizam_209/?action=view&current=Image037.jpg

 

how to fit the gauges oil temp, oil prusser and boost

 

guide below

 

FIRST STAGE

 

First job is to install the GOLD OPOT ADAPTER. This will take both of the oil gauge senders that are included with the gauges. The adaptor has 3 ports. 2 of which have allen key plugs in place. It doesnt matter which 2 you use.

First you will need some PTFE PLUMBERS TAPE. This MUST be used to wrap around ALL METAL TO METAL thread connections.

This means the CENTRE BOLT, THE PLUGS and the threads on both senders.

First thing to do is to remove both plugs..then wrap a couple of turns of PTFE tape around one of them, and plug off one hole..then with the remaining 2 holes, screw into position the OIL PRESSURE sender and the OIL TEMP SENDER. Wrap PTFE tape around the threads, tighten by hand( Dont expect the thread to screw all the way down- its a tapered thread - it won`t) Once hand tight. then use a suitable spanner/molegrip to tighten about half a turn more.

Once the senders are in place, and the 3rd port plugged off. its ready to install.

 

IYou will need to drain the oil from the car first ..so this job is probably best done by getting the car to a garage for an oil filter change etc, as the garage will do thisfor you..but if you want to do it yourself..firt drain the oil via the sump plug..then remove the oil filter..this will unscrew from a protruding male thread..once removed. the adaptor plate screws onto this thread. To make sure you have it the right way round..the RUBBER SEAL goes against the engine so the centre thread female will be facing the same side as the rubber seal..remember to use PTFE tape on the male thread from the engine. Once screwed in place, you then screw on a new oil filter onto the male thread of the Adaptor centre thread..again use PTFE TAPE on this.Finally fill up with new oil.

The adaptor and senders are now ready to be connected to the gauges.

 

PART 2

 

THE FIRST GAUGE TO INSTALL..BOOST

 

Each gauge has 3 wire leads..POWER/ILLUMINATION (MED LENGTH) LINK CABLE (SHORT LENGTH) INFO WIRE (LONG LENGTH)

At the rear of each gauge are the plug in connection points for the leads..the middle one is always for the INFO WIRE (LONGEST) The 2 plug in connections either side can be used by either the POWER or LINK wires..it doesnt matter.

The first thing to do is wire up the boost gauge.4

Plug in the POWER LEAD (MED LENGTH) push in gently with finger..then use a pen or similar to push in firmly.

The power lead has 4 wires coming from it..RED. BLACK. WHITE, ORANGE

 

The BLACK wire needs to connect to a good earth point..so extend that single wire by adding an extension wire (any wire is ok) take that and connect to a good earth.

 

The RED wire needs to be connected to a PERMANANT LIVE feed..so extend that and connect it to BATTERY POSITIVE terminal or any permanant live feed.

 

The WHITE wire is for illumination..connect this to an IGNITION LIVE feed..ie anything that comes on when you turn the car on..ie RADIO?

 

The ORANGE WIRE is for DIMMER..this allows the illumination to dim slightly at night, to stop glare..this needs to be connected to a SIDELIGHT/HEADLIGHTS ON LIVE feed..

 

Once all the wires are connected..test it out..when you turn on the ignition the gauge should do an opening sweep. and when you turn off a 2 stage shut down, which goes white then red.

 

The gauge will now be powered.

 

Now you need to connect it to the electronic sender. This sender mounts into the engine bay. and connects directly to the connections coming from the info wire from the gauge/

The sender needs to be secured in place and then use the supplied T PIECE and HOSE to connect to the hose in your engine bay. There is an inline filter which you should place in the hose. this stops needle movement.

 

Now the Boost Gauge shoukl be working.

 

Once you are happy that all is ok..move on to the next gauge

 

The last 2 gauges only need to use the SHORT LINK WIRE to connect.

OIL PRESSURE..use the link wire to connect the BOOST to the OIL PRESSURE..then connect the INFO WIRE..this then goes to the sender on the ADAPTOR

Use the twist terminal to connect the wire and connect the Black earth wire on the twist connection marked WK

 

OIL TEMP,,as above, use the connection to connect to the 2 wires coming from the sender.

 

 

This should now connect your gauges

 

i hope that can help.

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Niz, who wrote that write up? I know it wasn't you :D

 

The dials and dash look very nice, far more modern than the horrible green blur they come with :)

 

BTW you're missing a rubber sealer on the front bonnet slam panel, it helps seal the bonnet down tightly and prevent the front of it lifting under speed (plus stops any ugly silver alu showing through from the outside)

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Niz, who wrote that write up? I know it wasn't you :D

 

The dials and dash look very nice, far more modern than the horrible green blur they come with :)

 

BTW you're missing a rubber sealer on the front bonnet slam panel, it helps seal the bonnet down tightly and prevent the front of it lifting under speed (plus stops any ugly silver alu showing through from the outside)

 

 

mostly my mate done this. we were trying our best to write up good! i hope this can helpful to use this

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