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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Learning to drive a 6speed TT


Supradan
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Smooth changes are no problem with a stock clutch. Fast changes are though, the change is rubbery, the lever too short, the box itself tractor like. It IS tough though, but you couldn't call it a nice change. Modifications can make it a lot nicer, albeit with a bit of NVH transferred to the interior and a less than fashionable gear lever length.

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Smooth changes are no problem with a stock clutch. Fast changes are though, the change is rubbery, the lever too short, the box itself tractor like. It IS tough though, but you couldn't call it a nice change. Modifications can make it a lot nicer, albeit with a bit of NVH transferred to the interior and a less than fashionable gear lever length.

 

I replaced all the rubber mounts and bushes on mine and that gave it much more positive and newer feel.

Fairly cheap and anyone can do it with the gearbox out.

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I replaced all the rubber mounts and bushes on mine and that gave it much more positive and newer feel.

Fairly cheap and anyone can do it with the gearbox out.

 

Same here. Mine came with a quick shift - more like a notchy shift mod! Got rid of that and all new shifter bushes and it was a massive improvement.

 

Must agree with Chris though, I drove an NA 6spd a while back that had a much taller gearknob, it looked pants, but the shift felt far smoother with the extra leverage.

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Interesting what you were saying about the aftermarket clutch there Chris. Mine's got the Southbend kevlar clutch, and reverse (and sometimes first) can be a real pain to get in to. I don't have much trouble now, but it literally took me months to get the hang of it! Whenever I've had to take it to a garage, people who have to reverse it often try for a couple of minutes, then give up and ask me the trick!

 

I've also noticed, for example, that I can't rush a change like 1st to 2nd, which is a bit surprising. I have to make sure I complete the action as two discrete (but not slow!) movements.

 

(I really notice how bad it is after I've been driving the Scooby, which has very short, precise and effortless stick movements.)

 

I've had the bushes changed, but I'd be interested in any other tips that might make the whole thing a bit smoother.

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If getting into gear, stationary, either first or reverse is a problem the clutch is dragging. A lot of the aftermarket single plate units are built on reground stock covers and the geo goes to pot, making a full release all but impossible. This wears the synchros in the gearbox and makes for difficulty selecting gears from stationary, and a notchy change on the move. You can a bit of extra release travel by adjusting the pedal push rod, but you MUST ensure some free play exists or it will eat release bearings.

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Interesting what you were saying about the aftermarket clutch there Chris. Mine's got the Southbend kevlar clutch, and reverse (and sometimes first) can be a real pain to get in to. I don't have much trouble now, but it literally took me months to get the hang of it! Whenever I've had to take it to a garage, people who have to reverse it often try for a couple of minutes, then give up and ask me the trick!

 

I've also noticed, for example, that I can't rush a change like 1st to 2nd, which is a bit surprising. I have to make sure I complete the action as two discrete (but not slow!) movements.

 

(I really notice how bad it is after I've been driving the Scooby, which has very short, precise and effortless stick movements.)

 

I've had the bushes changed, but I'd be interested in any other tips that might make the whole thing a bit smoother.

 

Hi Darren, Chris and Mark mentioned before that it might be due to the clutch I had installed. Chris said the SB likely uses a reground pressure plate which moves the bite point right down to the floor (something which was is still the case today I think). IIRC Mark said it was dragging when he tested it last so I do wonder if the clutch is now past its best.

 

Hopefully I can pick up that RPS one from Gaz for you sometime soon!

 

Edit - doh, too slow!

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My 2p, the RPS Stage 3 I have (single plate) used to be very difficult to select reverse & selecting gears was becoming increasingly difficult.

 

When it finally let go, it wasn't the clutch itself, the 2 bolts holding the release fork on had sheared (whether they had worked loose I don't know).

 

After new ones with a higher tensile strength had been used, reverse is as easy as when it was stock, gear changes are easy (no matter how hard I drive, even 1st to 2nd).

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