Oil recom !

Hi all , just wanted your oppinions on engine oil change for 94 j-spec na .

right i can get magnatec 10w-40 semi synth, next to nothing, by doing a deal with one of my customer's. this is the only top brand he has, should i go for this as i dont drive the card hard anyway, trackdays etc or should i go for a better oil !

i've done the searches etc just want you guy's oppinions thats all ! of course i'm saving money with the magnatec .

it will be fine in your car IMO

I'd stick with fully synth, why skimp on the most important fluid in your car?

It will be fine, i only run my single on semi synth.

I have semi synth in mine and is fine for my TT, you can do alot worse than magnatec

I'd stick with fully synth, why skimp on the most important fluid in your car?

Agreed. Don't skimp.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1145-silkolene-pro-s-10w-50-ester-synthetic-oil-for-high-performance-engines.aspx

£60 for the top oil for our cars without club discount taken off.

Bargain.

10 40 semi synth or fully synth will be absolutely fine for an NA or a TT upto BPU (and possibly beyond )

I have always like these comments by "Oilman" regarding the fabled "synthetic"

"There is endless semantic manoeuvring and lawyer-speak around The Magic Word ’synthetic’.

For instance, a ‘synthetic’ oil is invariably semi-synthetic (’Ah! We didn’t say it was all synthetic did we?), and, if low priced, invariably the modified mineral type synthetic. It is a sad fact that you get what you pay for, but even so, stick to the reputable UK/European brands, and remember that shipping an oil half way around the world doesn’t automatically make it better than one made in your home town."

"What is the best type of oil to use in a road car for general use? Is fully synthetic a waste of money?

Personally I’d go for a shear-stable part ester synthetic, SAE 10W/40 or 5W/40. The ‘shear-stable’ bit (ie, a decent quality multigrade polymer) is actually more important than the ‘synthetic’ part!

If strapped, I’d go for a shear-stable mineral based oil rather than a ‘synthetic’ of dubious stability that’s probably based on modified mineral oil anyway. Unless you’re covering a huge annual mileage, genuine 100% synthetics are probably an extravagance. High mileage long-distance fans can use a light full synthetic and save on fuel and oil changes, and cut overhaul costs if things get to that stage, but more later….."

"There are all sorts of additives available which are supposed to improve ordinary oil and reduce friction, improve power output etc. Are they worth a try?

Oil is already a very advanced and deeply researched fluid which does not need any ‘enhancement’. There is no secret formula out in the backwoods that the mainstream lubricant chemists do not know about; but there are plenty of half-baked ideas and gullible people out there!

These wonder additives are usually 1930s chlorinated paraffins, long obsolete gear oil additives which should have disappeared in the 1950s, but they keep turning up as ‘Xxtrasuperlube ZX3’ with a mark-up of several thousand percent. They actually corrode engine and transmission internals, so they do far more harm than good. "

Fully Synthetic Ester based stuff all the way for me. You can buy lessor oils, but why would you?

/me dons flameproof suit