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People who have removed your rear seats...


Jim_1979
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There is a neat little guide from Supraforums for tidying up the rear seat area if you feel inclined to remove them:

 

(Quoted from source)

 

Since I was preparing the car for a coming weekend race I decided to review the rules for my class one last time. When I saw "backseat may be removed, but must be neatly finished" I knew a rear seat delete would be in order!! But I didn't want to spend a ton of cash, spend too much time doing it, or need many tools to get it done.

 

After a bit of thought, (well not much actually) I came up with this very clean, cost effective solution for about $20.

 

You will need:

 

1 piece of aluminum or steel plate stock ~37" x 4" x 3/16" (or less) thick

1 piece 48"x 24" x 1/8" MDF, particle board, pressed wood..whatever!

Carpet of your choice approx 48" x36" (there will be some left over)

1 can of sound deadener (optional)

 

To start, I decided to use the existing back seat mount holes and fabricate a "brace". I found by using this brace, it provides a nice flat mounting surface for the board, and who knows, maybe it keeps some rigidity in the car the original seats were providing.

 

1) Take your flat alum. or steel material and put a couple of clearance holes (about 1/2" in size) 1" in from each end. That gives the holes 35" center-to-center. You may have to open the holes a touch to get them to fit, but it's no big deal. A dremel comes in handy for this. In the 1st photo, you can see I have it screwed in to the existing rear seat mount holes.

image

 

2) **OPTIONAL** Once your brace is mounted, spray back seat area with sound deadener.

 

3) Cut your board material to size. The sizes are : Top is ~39" wide and the bottom ~42". I bought my wood at Home Depot and it came in 48x24 size. Essentially, you are only cutting angles on either end of the board since the 24" height size is a perfect fit. It ends up looking like a parallelogram. Next, do the cut out in the bottom middle of the board. Make it about 15" wide and about 4" deep. This is so there's room for the transmission tunnel hump. You might have to take a bit more off to get a decent fit..again, a Dremel will do this in a blink.

 

Here's a pic of my board. image

 

When test mounting it into the car, push it all the way up against the existing hatch area material. That way the bottom sits almost flush with where the seat edge used to be. Once you are satisfied with the fit you need to put the clearance holes to mount it to the brace you made. All I did was put the screws in their holes, place the board over them, and tap the board gently with a hammer. This will leave screw head impressions and give you a general idea of where to put your 1/2" clearance holes.

 

4) Cut your carpet. I left a couple of inches all around (you can see it in the above pic). I then folded it onto the back of the panel and used a glue gun to affix it. I didn't affix where I made the cut-out for the tunnel though. I just cut up to the board, and let it hang there...like a tongue or a flap. Don't forget to poke holes through the carpet where you put your clearance holes!!

 

5) All done. Just mount the panel over the brace and put the screws in to the existing seat mount holes. It's easy, tidy and actually looks really good. All for about $20. Here's a couple of pics. It does make a pretty steep angle and would be pretty much useless to store anything on it. But this was for racing, and I don't store much back there anyhow.

 

image

image

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You seem to have a colour clash sire!

 

I wouldn't mind turning my rear seats into a 2-teired storage area, keep the long flat pan for the boot (in case I ever put a bike in there..) and an area below for ICE / storage space!

 

i kinder like the two tone.im going to dye the capet black to

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