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Rob Wild's Engine Build


rob wild
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Yep me as well :) I will document the project over the next few coming months: Heres a few starting photos of it in my garage.

 

image

image

 

Starting point

 

The engine came from Gaz1 (thanks very much for your help) and was at AFR with Matt (again cheers for the packaging etc :))

 

The goal for this project is to build an engine for a reliable single street car.

 

Its reported to have bore scoring on all 6 cylinders. Although it will have to be checked. So yes i bough it fully in the knowledge that although it was running it does obviously have a problem and will need stripping and rebuilding.

 

May I just add that this is purely a technical exercise! There is nothing wrong with my car (bar the crappy BL gearbox which keeps leaking!) and its as strong as ever engine wise! What i wanted todo with this project is build something that tests a few different theory's/urban myths that i have read over the years of supra ownership. This build will be a mixture of new OEM stock components and only after market part which i feel will help achieve the goal. I may also if i get a chance do some back to back comparisons between the stock bottom end and the new built one.

 

First things first i've just organized my tool kit:

 

Got Engine stand

GotPiston ring extractor tool

GotPiston ring groove cleaner

GotPiston ring expander

need to buyA DTI with 0.001mm resolution.

GotA Bore gauge

Got External micrometer

Got Feeler gauge set with resolution of at least 0.01mm from 0.03mm.

need to buyVernier calipers.

need to buyPlastigage strip.

GotTorque wrench.

GotValve spring compressor.

GotValve stem seal pliers.

GotGasket scraper.

Got someSelection of wire and nylon brush's.

GotValve lapping tool.

need to buyCylinder ridge reamer.

need to buyToyota SST 09213-70010, 09330-0021.

GotEngineers blue.

GotLoctite 242.

GotLoctite 577.

 

(As recommended by Mr License cheers :))

 

I've also bought some garage flooring and wall paint to keep the area as clean as possible :)

 

Current spec of engine

86.5mm CP Pistons

HKS 256 / 264 cams

Head ported and flowed:- 5 angle inlet and 3 angle exhaust valve.

HKS 2.0mm headgasket

ARP Head

ARP Main

ARP Rod Studs.

New OEM oil pump

 

Compression Ratio

Current Compression Ratio (Some estimations)

 

Enter Bore: 8.65

Enter Stroke: 8.6

Total in CC: 505.38cc

Compressed Volume

Diameter gasket bore hole: 8.6

Compressed gasket width 0.2

Total in CC: 11.62cc

Piston volume: 15cc(estimate will update)

Combustion Chamber Volume: 45.7

Subtotal: 72.32

Compression Ratio: 7.99:1

 

So basically with the calculation it looks like the current CR is 8:1 which is .5 lower than stock. Although keeping a lower Compression ratio will allow me to run more boost especially on pumped gas it may make the engine 'laggy'. In the interest of keeping the car a 'fast' street car one of the big characteristics for me is lower down power. Therefore I may rework the above figure to give me a 8.5:1 ratio. Again this may be an area which after the project is complete be very interesting when comparing it to my current stock engine which is 8.5:1

 

 

Anyway im off on holiday tomorrow :) But start updating more when i get back :)

Edited by rob wild (see edit history)
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All welcome :)

 

Nice one Rob, you putting it your Supe when it's done, or are you getting another?

 

Not decide TBH mine is running really well engine wise and is really good to drive so I think i would find it really hard to start messing with it! But on the other hand with the prices of N/A these days I may build another car up :innocent::search:

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Nice one, engine building is obviously in fashion this year! I can't think why you'd need a DTI accurate to 0.001mm - they are pretty expensive and they only things you need that level of accuracy for are bores and diameters of things. I doubt you'll need a ridge reamer either unless it's really coked up. My 80000 mile stock engine had no ridges - I'd have a look before buying one. Good luck with it!

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i fully agree with your thinking on the compression ratio with regard to losing bottom end torque, i am going to do the same with mine, ie keep the stock compression ratio and run as much boost as possible on v-power until it begins to det, for me this makes much more sense than lowing the compression ratio to run a bit more bhp when bouncing off the rev limiter, are you going to stick with the auto ?, good luck matey and we'll have to compare notes, mines on hold at the moment till our shutdown when i'll get more money to carry on, trying to move house and build a 2JZ motor really drains the resources :D

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Nice one, engine building is obviously in fashion this year! I can't think why you'd need a DTI accurate to 0.001mm - they are pretty expensive and they only things you need that level of accuracy for are bores and diameters of things. I doubt you'll need a ridge reamer either unless it's really coked up. My 80000 mile stock engine had no ridges - I'd have a look before buying one. Good luck with it!

 

Good advice Simon cheers :) there is a really good shop near me that specializes in engineering tools and the guy i've know for a good few years said i could borrow one :)

 

i fully agree with your thinking on the compression ratio with regard to losing bottom end torque, i am going to do the same with mine, ie keep the stock compression ratio and run as much boost as possible on v-power until it begins to det, for me this makes much more sense than lowing the compression ratio to run a bit more bhp when bouncing off the rev limiter, are you going to stick with the auto ?, good luck matey and we'll have to compare notes, mines on hold at the moment till our shutdown when i'll get more money to carry on, trying to move house and build a 2JZ motor really drains the resources :D

 

Yeah will have to have a chat about specs at some point matey or you could always pop over mine for a brew once i've got it stripped. Always good to get a second opinion :)

 

Im going to see if I can get a Auto box that actually works i suppose 3rd time lucky ;) TBH i'm not shooting for big numbers here because I don't think that really works with the goal of it being a street single and as many have said before (including yourself) just how much power do you need in a street supra!?! Plus at above 650RWHP i start to worry about grip, chassis strength, forces on suspension components, down force etc etc Mine already 'tail flicks' at 40-50mph when put into WOT and kickdown @ 1.1bar :blink: So I think that if i can get a good uprated box hopefully it should be able to hold the power.

 

Awesome! Goodluck with it all Rob! Yell if you need anything ;-)

 

Cheers Kyle :) Fancy doing some sponsorship ;) :D

 

Don't worry I will be send you a spec list very shortly for you to price up :)

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Good luck mate, sounds interesting. Would love to come give youa hand for an afternoon/day at some point. Im not much of a mechanic but i can hold the tools, make the brews and bacon butties :D

 

No problem matey :) I'll give you a shout when I get back you're more than welcome to come for a brew and look buddy :)

 

good luck with it rob;) oh and first dibbs if selling when rebuilt:D

 

Cheers Gaz :) You know matey ;) :D

 

(PS the money has left my account so should be with you shortly :))

 

Looking forward to this Rob good luck matey ;)

 

Cheers dude :)

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Good advice Simon cheers :)

Yeah will have to have a chat about specs at some point matey or you could always pop over mine for a brew once i've got it stripped. Always good to get a second opinion :)

 

yeah give me a shout when you get back from your hols, hopefully this time we meet up i wont be going home on a transporter :D

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