1000 mile run in finished at last

Well I have spent the last 4 evening driving round the M25 or up and down the A13 from southend to Barking to get the engine run in and back to Mark at Pheonix for the final checks, it has taken a couple of hundred pounds in fuel and a lot of boring 3000RPM driving but its done

Only had one small issue in this time which was the need to tighten the oil feed pipe to the turbo, apart from that it has not missed a beat, a pleasure to drive, it feels like it revs so much quicker with the built engine over stock

It will come back to me Monday then its off to RyanG for mapping, I wonder how much power this will make

Great news mate, keep us informed with the mapping progress

Must be nice to know you're in safe hands and your car has been built properly

Cor it's almost done.. Seems to have taken forever....

I'll have to book in a 'test' drive..

good news...is the grin back yet?

Nice bud

Almost there now...

Surly you didn't run it in at 3,000RPM?? please tell me you gradually increased RPM and load.

Surly you didn't run it in at 3,000RPM?? please tell me you gradually increased RPM and load.

The first few hours was tick over only without moving, then the car was driven at very low RPM for 100 miles, then I got it back and it was taken upto 3K max

The first few hours was tick over only without moving, then the car was driven at very low RPM for 100 miles, then I got it back and it was taken upto 3K max

I guess there are loads of prefered break in methods, motorman types being the best for some people, i was always schooled that the 1st engine run is very important in setting the rings i.e. if left at idle they rattle around some what and can cause damage to the fresh hatching. so basically a high rev while checking over for leaks etc etc then some on/off load driving to help seal the rings and regular changes of dino oil and filter in between. Especially on an unmapped/semu mapped car were you may be getting serious fuel polution in the oil

Its a controversal subject and every one has there own views on how to do it i guess - and its always one to cause debate

I guess there are loads of prefered break in methods, motorman types being the best for some people, i was always schooled that the 1st engine run is very important in setting the rings i.e. if left at idle they rattle around some what and can cause damage to the fresh hatching. so basically a high rev while checking over for leaks etc etc then some on/off load driving to help seal the rings and regular changes of dino oil and filter in between. Especially on an unmapped/semu mapped car were you may be getting serious fuel polution in the oil

Its a controversal subject and every one has there own views on how to do it i guess - and its always one to cause debate

yup there is loads of different methods etc...ive heard that aswell..you need to get the rings to seal properly early..and thats by using light loads...but higher rpms...theres a whole page about that theory that i may look out...supposedly an oil change after 20 miles aswell...to catch all the metal fillings and get them out..

^ seems as though was thinking about the same method actually...heres the link

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Yep too many different schools of thought on this subject and all of them have good and bad points, I am just doing as I am told

I have been talking to a few on the subject on the lead up to the car being ready and Mark has finished cars that have been run in very very hard indeed, in fact racing the next day, it is as mentioned a very interesting topic

I do know that an oil change was done after the few hours run in in the garage and we will change again tomorrow for Silkoline Pro R 15W-50W

and the following is from Tthe Formula Atlantic Motor kit instructions from TRD:

To ensure long life and reliability you must properly break in your freshly assembled engine.

For a high performance street motor fill the engine with a good grade 20W-50 Mineral based oil. Fill the oil filter with oil before installing it. Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge.

Re-install the spark plugs. Now you are ready to start her up. Start the engine and bring it immediately to 2,000 rpm. Vary the engine speed between 2,000 – 3,000 rpm for about 30 minutes. After 30 minutes stop the engine, check the valve lash and re-torque the head bolts. Drain the oil and change the filter. Re-fill the engine with 20W-50 Mineral based oil.

Drive the car slowly for about 500 miles keeping the rpm under 4,000. Don’t lug the engine either because that’s worse for the motor than over revving it. After 500 miles change the oil and filter again. You can now use a synthetic oil if you want to. Use a 20W-50 oil and change it every 3,000 miles. Your engine is now broken in.

For a race engine broken in on the dyno the procedure is a little different. Note that this procedure is for a race clearanced engine.

For the initial run use a Mineral based 20W-50 oil. Run a hotter spark plug than you normally would run. Prime the oil system and the fuel system. Start t6he engine and bring it up to 2,000 – 3,000 rpm with no load. Watch the oil pressure and check for leaks. After 30 minutes stop the motor, check the timing, re-torque the head and check valve lash. Then, run the engine with a light load between 2,000 – 3,000 rpm for another 30 minutes. After 30 minutes change the spark plugs to the normal heat range you are going to run. Do a full throttle full load pull up to the bottom of the power band. Quickly chop the motor.

Check the spark plugs and the BSFC numbers if your dyno is equipped to do so to confirm the jetting. If everything looks good do a full throttle full load pull.

The engine is now ready to race....

Getting there mate, i look forward to the dyno resuts.

Only engine i ever run in softly blew up after 5000 miles but that was a TF build;) all the other engines ive used them hard after 50 miles of varying revs but no load and they have been fine including the last short block i got from toyota:)

Nice one mate, I bet it was hard to keep your foot off the throttle . Had a look around the car at Bluewater, it's a nice one mate, and with Mark building it for you you should have no prob's with it .

Nice one mate, I bet it was hard to keep your foot off the throttle . Had a look around the car at Bluewater, it's a nice one mate, and with Mark building it for you you should have no prob's with it .

It just wants to go, it is very tempting to go faster but after a years wait a few more days wont matter

It just wants to go, it is very tempting to go faster but after a years wait a few more days wont matter

I'd be the same mate, i'd rather keep myself in line for a little while longer than risk anything going pop !. Good luck with the mapping and the rest of it.

Well all i can say is good luck, i have never heard of that particular type of engine break in, to me leaving a newly built engine to idle for hours is just horrendous, hope you haven't got new cams, the loading on the valve gear at idle if phenomenal, and I'm afraid they wont last long, do you mind divulging just who recommended this run in procedure, as I'm quite shocked.