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A good SMIC or FMIC, decent spal fans on the rad might do some good but i've read they aren't much better than stock. I've read that hardpipes (intercooler) are meant to help with efficiency which can only help.

 

A nice shiney rad might if you wanted to spend some dosh though :)

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Do you mean cooling in terms of the water temps?

 

If so, provided you don't have a huge FMIC in front of the rad, the stock rad is absolutely fine provided the rest of the engine is in good condition.

 

Even with mine with a 3 row Greddy it was still fine, even on track. In fact, it was still fine with a T67dbb single, even in the heat of summer an heavy traffic. It's not been on the track yet though :D

 

That was with a Do Luck front with ducting, it *might* not be so good with an FMIC and the stock front.

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Yes Homer i was thinking water temps really.

 

I was browsing this site which made me pose the question.

 

One of their adverts stated that improved cooling from a more efficient Fluidyne rad generated around 5-10bhp more.

 

I would be surprised at that but if you can get the charge temps down then you can definitely get more power.

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One of their adverts stated that improved cooling from a more efficient Fluidyne rad generated around 5-10bhp more.

 

It's sales garbage for the US market. Best ignored unless you have a huge FMIC, your old rad is tired or you're running silly boost in hot weather/track conditions.

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I would be surprised at that but if you can get the charge temps down then you can definitely get more power.

 

Water temps have virtually no bearing on charge temps if the system is working. An FMIC is mounted before the rad anyway...

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Yes Homer i was thinking water temps really.

 

I was browsing this site which made me pose the question.

 

One of their adverts stated that improved cooling from a more efficient Fluidyne rad generated around 5-10bhp more.

Pfft. Ridiculous claim. Do you have 5-10 more horsepower before your engine has warmed up then?

I notice the page also says the stock radiator is plastic, which it isn't.

If your coolant isn't chronically overheating you won't gain anything from fitting a different Rad.

Also, a FMIC is more likely to cause overheating than the stock SMIC because it blocks air flow to the rad.

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Yeh i figured it was marketing BS, but still made me question the Supes standard cooling efficiency and weather there were relative simple ways of improving it.

 

IE Bigger fans etc.

 

I guess we have not much to worry about. Other then some guy wanting to stick lambo doors on his supe on another thread :(

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Water temps have virtually no bearing on charge temps if the system is working. An FMIC is mounted before the rad anyway...

 

Yeah, i was just lazy and didn't type everything i was thinking. I was basically meaning forget the water for more power, concentrate on cooling the charge temps lol.

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Actually while on the subject, can someone direct me to the best transmission cooler for the supe? As im going to be looking into upgrading the Torque converter, which i may be purchasing from those guys (on Trd's recommendation).

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You will gain some lost bhp by removing the viscose fan.

Not sure how much :(

 

The load you will lose on the engine removing the viscous fan, will just be transferred to the alternator to run the electric fans, you don't get something for nothing.

 

The viscous fan is much more reliable and able to flow ample quantities of air to cool the radiator. I would hazard a guess the stock viscous fan will flow more than a pair of electric fans.

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The viscous fan is far more capable than electric ones assuming you still have the shroud, if you don't it'll be fairly useless.

 

The key to cooling is forcing the air through the rad. Air will go for the exit with least resistance....make that the core of the rad and you're onto a winner. You need to seal the area infront of the rad so that the air entering the nose has to go through the rad and into the engine bay.

 

The stock radiator has a vast surface area, a properly working stock rad will be enough for the needs of anyone on this site.

 

In short, stock fan, stock shroud and a new rad will be spot on....it will have kept the car cool in Death Valley(et al) testing...so England is going to be a piece of cake.

 

Blocking the rad with an FMIC changes things but if you make sure it's all still a sealed area then it shouldn't be a problem.

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I've just fitted a twin fan set, one pulls 2500 cfm and the other 1500 cfm (smaller as it sits between rad and IC down pipe).

 

I've fitted them because after market rad cap split top of rad :( should have read up first about TRD rad caps or sellers information should be more clear that these will result in rad pressure increasing :innocent:

But then less new rad would be sold ;)

 

So i've had a nice new shiny PWR, very big, hold 10 ltr's but EGT's still running into 100's during heavy use of right foot on hot days.

AC rad and FMIC both block air flow through to rad :(

I could have modified fan shroud and kept viscous fan but 2 new electric fans controlled by ECU do a very nice job :)

Only down side is the running noise of these fans, they sound like i'm getting ready for take off :)

 

Next job is to remove AC rad as i don't use it and it's blocking air flow to rad. I need also to manage the warm air that is being created within endgine bay due to new fans.

I'm looking at a home made wind tunnel with fans and a smoke machine to see where it's a going and if i can direct it to different places.

I'm well aware that i need a much cold air to the right places as well, so this is being address as well :)

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If you go the FMIC route make some proper ducting for it, sides and top and bottom making sure the air can only go one way.

 

At BPU i would just go with a new stock rad ducted fully along with a coolant change and a new SMIC. You will not overheat it ! (Assuming you have a stock front bumper)

If track days float your boat perhaps an oil cooler and a ps cooler in the left hand duct.

if you wanted to reduce heat you could have all your pipework heat coated to reduce temps slightly although cost versus temp drop would have to be weighed up.

If soing lots of high speed runs maybe fit the oem scoop + fitting kit and make it fully functional.

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I was never that impressed with my old Fluidyne rad, the fit wasn't good and it did not perform any better than the stock rad. The Power Enterprise double row rad I have on now is a lot better at keeping the temps down. It was 36+ degrees today here, I was having a bit of a play when the roads were clear and then later stuck in slow moving traffic and temps stayed stable all day.

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