Going BPU

Hi all.

Right I've read all the guides, got most of the bits to go BPU. However, I'm having a "discussions" with my mates over whether I should go down the FCD route or go full out new ECU and re-mapping.

I'm not intending to do many mods once BPU is finished, however my mate has chastised me countless times for thinking of going down the FCD route.

My current thinking ATM is to go with the FCD and save up for a new ECU and re-mapping. Does this seem the best option?

BTW my mate who is nagging me is running an S13, which he has had re-mapped (which I understand is to be considerably cheaper than having the same process carried out on a Supra) and is kicking out around 260-280 bhp (which he won't ahut up about).

Any advice (even if its just an argument to shut my mate up) would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

The FCD does work, and if you want no more done to it than BPU then an aftermarket ECU seems a waste.

The stock ECU cant be remapped.

Well if it's an argument you're after then tell him that a supraTT is 280+ as standard.

You're looking at nearer 400 once you're fully bpu.

Well if it's an argument you're after then tell him that a supraTT is 280+ as standard.

You're looking at nearer 400 once you're fully bpu.

Generally 320 odd standard.

If you go BPU by removing both your cats sticking an aftermarket airfilter on, and a 1.2 bar restrictor ring then you'll probably need the FCD. I did.

well so far for my bpu set up I have got the following on

HKS Mushroom filter (going to change to ARC)

Denso irriduim IK 22 plugs

Thor Racing FCD

Apexi GT spec Exhaust

HKS 3" 2nd decat

CW 2.5" 1st decat

51.1 I think RR

Still need a better Intercooler though, however I can only make 0.9 bar of boost car doesnt really feel any more quicker.

How do I cure that one doc? Theres Nothing too restrictive there to prevent the boost.

Lew.

Before going single, I had BPU with the following :

HKS Super power flow filter

HKS FCD

GReddy boost controller (profec B spec II)

GReddy e-manage

RMM downpipe (both cats removed) and HKS Dragger exhaust

Iridium spark plugs

GReddy 3 row FMIC

I had my Supe running 1.4 bar (euro-spec turbos), which was good for around 430bhp.

Although the GReddy FMIC was fitted as I had single in back of my mind, fitting an aftermarked FMIC is nice for BPU.

The GReddy e-manage sorted out the fuelling.

Although an stand alone ECU is not necessary for BPU (some guys even run piggy back ECU on single turbo'd Supe's), raising the rev limit and speed limiter will only be possible with SA ECU.

well so far for my bpu set up I have got the following on

 

HKS Mushroom filter (going to change to ARC)

Denso irriduim IK 22 plugs

Thor Racing FCD

Apexi GT spec Exhaust

HKS 3" 2nd decat

CW 2.5" 1st decat

51.1 I think RR

 

Still need a better Intercooler though, however I can only make 0.9 bar of boost car doesnt really feel any more quicker.

 

How do I cure that one doc? Theres Nothing too restrictive there to prevent the boost.

 

Lew.

Perhaps the exhaust is naturally quite restrictive? If you are still only making .9 bar then you will need to carefully reduce the size of the RR until the boost rises. Be careful and keep an eye on things!

The other option would be to raise the boost using a boost controller, although if it was me - i'd play around with the RR until I was making around 1 bar then use a boost controller to up the boost when I wanted to (no more than 1.2 bar if your on stock J-spec twins )

Oh and i'd change the induction kit back to a stock air box

Perhaps the exhaust is naturally quite restrictive? If you are still only making .9 bar then you will need to carefully reduce the size of the RR until the boost rises. Be careful and keep an eye on things!

 

The other option would be to raise the boost using a boost controller, although if it was me - i'd play around with the RR until I was making around 1 bar then use a boost controller to up the boost when I wanted to (no more than 1.2 bar if your on stock J-spec twins )

 

Oh and i'd change the induction kit back to a stock air box

 

Perfectly explained

....If you are still only making .9 bar then you will need to carefully reduce the size of the RR until the boost rises. Be careful and keep an eye on things! ....

By reduce the size of the RR (restrictor ring) he means increase the diametre of the hole slightly.

Just in case you don't know why you need a RR, it's to stop boost creep (not good) when you remove both cats. Something to do with the standard small wastegate if IRC.

 

Perfectly explained

Cheers Rob

By reduce the size of the RR (restrictor ring) he means increase the diametre of the hole slightly.