Fog Light conversion question (not the usual though!!)

Do the UK spec cars have a seperate fog light on indiction light on the warning panel on the right hand side of the dash.

I would like to know as I will be installing the fog conversion with a UK Spec fog switch which unlike the aftermarket switches has no illuminating light. I believe that I need a light to tell me when it is on in order for it to pass its MOT?

My plan, if they do, is to get hold of a UK upper dash warning panel and retrofit it to my Jspec so I can make use of this light, while maintaining the authentic look of the dash.

You're right - you do need a telltale light.

I've already done this mod by using an existing blank bulb space on the RHS warning light strip with a specially made symbol strip that has a fog light symbol on it to cover it. The whole thing is connected so that it lights up when the switch is on only.

The wiring needs to be a bit different, as the RHS symbols use a negative earth, but it's easily worked around.

PM me if you want to know how and I can take you through it when I've got time at the weekend.

You could always use the break light failure indicator as a fog light indicator too.

Pic of the fog light indicator and switch for reference...

Thanks everyone.

Mawby - Great idea, had not thought of that.

Michael - Thanks for the reference photos. Thats what all the switches do on a UK spec car.

Mike Mac - You have PM

PART 1/2

Right! Now that I've had a chance to get some pictures I can post up a quick guide to how I did it.

This should leave you with a working bulb blown warning light, two brake lights that can be used as rear fogs, connected to a UK switch mounted on the dash and a proper illuminated rear fog symbol on the RHS warning light strip.

All connections should be soldered and then insulated. I stripped my insulation off to take these pictures, just before anyone picks me up for bare wires! I would suggest that at the same time you re-solder the RHS warning light panel's connections, as they will probably be brittle by now and the extra movement won't do them any favours.

The steps below assume you have no rear fog light wiring at all. If you do then join in where suitable. Also I'm not saying that how my wires are connected up is the best way. I worked within what the original coverter had put in (badly). I will explain as I go why I have used the connections I have.

REQUIRED

Screwdriver(s).

Soldering iron.

Solder.

3-5 different colour wires (must have red and black + 1 other at least).

Bullet/spade/ring connectors.

Crimping tool.

Insulating tape/heatshrink and heat gun.

UK fog switch.

RHS dash panel with blank for switch.

Converted RHS warning symbol strip.

Sharp knife and file (Leatherman is ideal)

Spare warning light bulb.

PROCEDURE

1. Strip out dash panels.

2. Remove RHS warning light block.

[see Wiring Diagram and pictures for a visual aid to the next steps]

3. Attach RED wire to positive feed of the gearlever backlight. See 001. this gives you a positive feed that is only active when the headlights are on.

4. Attach BLACK wire to earth (I used a screw into the transmission tunnel and a ring connector). See 002.

5. Feed RED and BLACK wires behind dash and leave them behind where the UK switch will be mounted.

6. T off wires from both RED and BLACK wires about 5 cm back from the switch end. The new RED wire needs to match the length of the original and the new BLACK needs enough length to comfortably reach the warning light panel. For ease of identification this is where you can use other colours for the Teed wires, but the choice is yours.

7. Run another wire (not red/black) from the boot (leave plenty of slack) through to behind the RHS panel, using the trim to conceal it. This is the wire that will FEED the fog light conversion at the back and, once connected to the switch, it will only be live when both the switch and the headlights are on.

8. Once you've done this T another wire from the switch end of the FEED wire and run it to behind the RHS warning panel next to the second BLACK one. This will provide the positive feed and the BLACK will provide the negative feed to the bulb we are going to install, which will only activate when both the switch and the headlights are on.

9. Now you have a FEED wire installed you can carry out the fog light conversion. Ensure you use the instructions with resistors in the circuit, so that the bulb blown warning still works.

See: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=80479&highlight=fog+light+conversion

(Cheers PixelFill BTW!)

10. Now you need to strip the warning light block (resolder the connections while it's apart). You are going to install the fog indicator in the furthest right blank slot. Due to the way the rest of the panel is earthed you will need to CAREFULLY strip the copper contact strip from the negative side of the bulb hole and then attach a BLACK wire in its place. See 003.

11. Attach a connector to the bare end of this BLACK wire and a corresponding connector to the bare end of the Teed off BLACK wire that's waiting behind the block. You will need to carefully file a gap for the wire to pass through to avoid snagging the warning light block. See 004. This will allow you to connect the BLACK feed from the main wires to corresponding one at the back of the block. This extra connection will allow you to easily remove the top panel without disturbing the lower wires if necessary.

TBC...

PART 2/2

12. Insert a bulb into the blank hole and attach your converted symbol strip. See 005 and 005A. I created a symbol strip by using one from an old Celica dash I had and cutting it to fit. I also had a bespoke one made by Thor in powder coated steel, so the choice is yours. both are shown in the picture.

13. Now you need to supply the positive feed to the bulb, using the already in place FEED wire. The pictures at 006 and 007 show where you need to insert the bare wire into the connector.

14. Now you need to wire up the switch. The wiring diagram shows what the various pins on the switch control. The Positive and Negative pins connect to the original RED and BLACK wires. The second spliced RED wire goes to the backlight pin and the original FEED for the fog light conversion connects to the feed pin. I used very small, insulated female spade connectors on each wire to connect them to the pins and this worked very well. See 008.

15. This should leave you with a UK fog switch that is backlit when the headlights are on, sends a live feed to the foglights at the back and the bulb on the dash simultaneously when the switch is turned on, but only if the headlights are on first.

16. Now you need to test it all and then work your way through everything making connections good, insulating them and ensuring the wires are routed clear of obstructions.

JOB DONE

This was typed up by me thinking through it in my office, so there may be mistakes. If so then PM me and I'll put them right.

Top work Mike. Thanks for this. Will give it a go and let you know how I get on.