bpu

just booket supra in for bpu at chris wilsons on the 24 may :

nice one, you will feel the difference;)

mines in at the moment (not with chris) - but im having some other bits done at the same time:

rltc

boost gauge

afr gauge

teins super streets with edfc

tein front and rear strut braces

fmic

blue led dash conversion

momo steering wheel

the list is 28 lines long and cant remember all of it, should feel good when its back though

dont you love it when things start moving along

I'm in the middle of re-building mine; loads of new toys going on/in

Unfortunately I'm on a ban until August so I can't enjoy it

hi bud how much bhp will i again

Are you completely stock just now?

just hks back box only

just hks back box only

Ooh you will love that daz! Mine is half BPU atm, just gathering the funds up for the other half lol!

Your gain will come from the straight through exhaust (with restrictor ring), and the increase in boost pressure,

If its Chris your in safe hands, so if he lets you boost to 1.2bar with the addition of a fcd, expect about 370fwhp

mine is almost bpu, I have..

On the car:

Apexi Gt exhaust on

Golpher racing radiator

HKS induction kit (want to change to apexi)

Denso irridum IK22 Plugs

Not on the car:

I have the HKS second Decat

Chris Wilson 1st decat

Thor FCD

Welbro fuel pump (in the post) ***was sitting waiting for me when i got home ***

Still Need to get:

Greddy Full mount intercooler.

Decat Pipe Bolts

1.2 Restrictor ring

Boost Controller

Boost guage

Oil Pressure guage

Oil Temp guage

Think thats every think i need for it, going to fit it myself.. Part of learning "how to work on a car" should be fun once done

Lew

mine is almost bpu, I have..

 

On the car:

 

Apexi Gt exhaust on

Golpher racing radiator

HKS induction kit (want to change to apexi)

Denso irridum IK22 Plugs

 

Not on the car:

 

I have the HKS second Decat

Chris Wilson 1st decat

Thor FCD

Welbro fuel pump (in the post)

 

Still Need to get:

 

Greddy Full mount intercooler.

Decat Pipe Bolts

1.2 Restrictor ring

Boost Controller

Boost guage

Oil Pressure guage

Oil Temp guage

 

Think thats every think i need for it, going to fit it myself.. Part of learning "how to work on a car" should be fun once done

 

Lew

boost controller and a restrictor ring? always thought it was one or the other

Oh maybe i could save a bit money here can some one confirm this, I thought you needed the boost controller so you could make sure you ran at 1.2 also if you wanted to drive just around the town you would knock it back down to stock? .

Lew

Oh maybe i could save a bit money here can some one confirm this, I thought you needed the boost controller so you could make sure you ran at 1.2 also if you wanted to drive just around the town you would knock it back down to stock? .

 

Lew

thats what the resrictor rings for - to stop you overboosting. iirc the vvti benefits more from a boost controller.

get in there!

save my self 200 beans!

get in there!

 

save my self 200 beans!

but you need an AFR (air fuel ratio) gauge - more than the oil pressure etc

ok laddy sorry to hijack the topic but its important towards bpu, What gauges are needed for bpu, I would rather have the ones i need.

Boost is a must surely?

AFR as said ( I hear these are really hard to fit)

Oil pressure ?

What could i get away with just having obviously with bpu only been slighly over stock i cant see me needed warter temps, voltage ect ect.

ok laddy sorry to hijack the topic but its important towards bpu, What gauges are needed for bpu, I would rather have the ones i need.

 

Boost is a must surely?

AFR as said ( I hear these are really hard to fit)

Oil pressure ?

 

What could i get away with just having obviously with bpu only been slighly over stock i cant see me needed warter temps, voltage ect ect.

read this mate, it helped me alot when deciding what i needed :

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=94705

obviously any gauge is useful, butmost important are boost, afr, and egt (exhaust gas temperature). anything else is if and when you can afford it. as a guide, gofor the the best gauges you can as cheaper ones are crap and dont always give a good readinhg, i've saved for months to get some defi's as apparently they are one of the best.

you will be smiling all the way home!

I think i might know where to get some HKS guages But i really really want the blitz guages but just cant afford the cost of them

You need a restrictor ring to restrict the boost you can run,

You need a boost controller to open the wastegate at your specified boost, you need both - unless you are UK spec which can handle the increased boost pressure if a spike occurs

In all honesty at bpu, oil pressure, temperature and water temperature are most important as well as boost gauge

My reasoning is that these are physical parts that are more likely to go wrong at bpu, your afr is dependent on the stock map, you cant change this so you shouldnt worry about it, egt again, if you have a double decat, theres not much you can do about it if they get high other than to stop the car, they shouldnt get ridiculously high at bpu as it can handle the 1.2bar

Oil pressure, it goes without saying, no oil pressure means seized engine

Oil Temp, this can go high on spirited runs, mainly due to grades and probably your lack of oil cooler, slow the car down warning basically,

Water temp, too high and your at risk of HG failure, these 3problems are more likely to happen than others at bpu hence the above 3 are more important imho

Boost gauge so you can see if your turbos are doing their specified job, again problems that may arise at bpu

AFR and EGT are a must on a Single, as are the rest

You need a restrictor ring to restrict the boost you can run,

 

You need a boost controller to open the wastegate at your specified boost, you need both - unless you are UK spec which can handle the increased boost pressure if a spike occurs

 

In all honesty at bpu, oil pressure, temperature and water temperature are most important as well as boost gauge

 

My reasoning is that these are physical parts that are more likely to go wrong at bpu, your afr is dependent on the stock map, you cant change this so you shouldnt worry about it, egt again, if you have a double decat, theres not much you can do about it if they get high other than to stop the car, they shouldnt get ridiculously high at bpu as it can handle the 1.2bar

 

Oil pressure, it goes without saying, no oil pressure means seized engine

Oil Temp, this can go high on spirited runs, mainly due to grades and probably your lack of oil cooler, slow the car down warning basically,

Water temp, too high and your at risk of HG failure, these 3problems are more likely to happen than others at bpu hence the above 3 are more important imho

 

Boost gauge so you can see if your turbos are doing their specified job, again problems that may arise at bpu

 

AFR and EGT are a must on a Single, as are the rest

so essentially what your saying is homers bpu thread is wrong?

Fundamentals of BPU

 

Jspec:

To raise boost beyond the stock level the restrictive catalytic converters are removed, thus allowing the turbos to spin faster and produce more boost pressure.

 

There is a down side to this. With both cats removed the turbos will in fact over speed far past their safe limit and reach over 1.6bar (23.2psi). This is due to the small size of the jspec wastegate which cannot cope with the increase in exhaust gasses.

At these pressures the ceramic blades in the turbo can become detached from the shaft and therefore cause catastrophic failure of the turbo.

 

In order to add some restriction back in to the exhaust a restrictor ring is added to the exhaust system. A restrictor ring is simply a metal plate that fits normally between either between the 1st and 2nd decat pipes, or the 2nd decat and cat-back. The centre of the restrictor is drilled out to a smaller diameter than the exhaust itself (normally around 2inches). A properly sized restrictor should bring the maximum boost pressure down to 1.2 bar or less.

 

UK/Euro/US (Export) spec:

To raise boost beyond the stock level the restrictive catalytic converters are removed, thus allowing the turbos to spin faster and produce more boost pressure. Different to the jspec, the export spec has a larger wastegate which can handle the increase in exhaust gasses.

Therefore boost pressure will be maintained at only slightly above stock levels, typically 0.85bar (12.3psi). In order to raise this further it is necessary to install a Boost controller to change the way in which the wastegate opens.

A restrictor ring is not required on the export spec

 

Note: On both models it’s possible to raise the boost with simply adding a Boost controller or Bleed valve; however this is not recommended since the huge resistance of the cats is still in place. This will result in significant extra heat being generated in the manifold and could cause serious engine damage due to raised exhaust gas temperatures.

so essentially what your saying is homers bpu thread is wrong?

No I'm saying you are, read again, its common sense

oooo thats fighting type.

cheers for the advice guys, been recomended some guages, thinking of getting some of these

http://www.deftracing.com/index.htm

No I'm saying you are, read again, its common sense

well one of us had to be i guess

but am i right in thinking that export specs (i.e uk and us) need the boost controller, but the j-specs dont? or am i being thick?

oooo thats fighting type.

 

cheers for the advice guys, been recomended some guages, thinking of getting some of these

 

http://www.deftracing.com/index.htm

lol, guages are really just personal choice, they dont have to be overly accurate as their only used for monitoring, and a useful warning tool, some come with buzzers e.t.c and data acquisition, not really needed unless you upgrade to a different management e.t.c