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The "Perfect" Rebuilt Engine?


b.weeks
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OK, interested in peoples thoughts on the ideal rebuilt engine. This is for race use! Not really into V8 conversion or anything as must work with existing turbo / ECU / exhaust, etc. etc.

 

So, internal items to consider would be pistons (e.g. JUN) , valves, rods (e.g. Carillo), bearings, crank, blocks (e.g. rebuild or new block from Toyota or Titan), heads, cams, etc.

 

Post your list and reasons. :)

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Ah, right, I see. As an aside if people built something that handled instead of worrying about BHP figures they'd do as well as Tappy... :) To be brutally frank, unless you just plain love Supras and nothing else will do it's a very unsuitable car for that sort of event. Too big, too high, too heavy. A properly done RX-7 might be the ideal Jap car choice, for use in the dry, and a proper 4WD thing *should* clean up in the wet.

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I am not knocking it, for years I raced various cars `cos I liked them, even though I knew they weren't very competitive. that's half the fun, running something you enjoy driving / building / modding. The Time Attack series now has pro drivers, with thousands of laps of circuit time under their seat belts, that fact alone takes some beating, even given the same car. The time differentials are massive.

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Has this got to meet some engine regulations? What are they? Not sure what you are aiming for with stock turbos and ecu and "race engine" in the same post? :)

 

Not stock turbos, "my" existing turbos :-) What I mean is, I've got a lot of the "external" engine bits - but looking for internal stuff.

 

For my purpose this is for Time Attack - which are pretty loose regulations (can't think of any in particular to be honest).

 

EDIT: "any" in terms of the engine.

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I am not knocking it, for years I raced various cars `cos I liked them, even though I knew they weren't very competitive. that's half the fun, running something you enjoy driving / building / modding. The Time Attack series now has pro drivers, with thousands of laps of circuit time under their seat belts, that fact alone takes some beating, even given the same car. The time differentials are massive.

 

It's the taking part that counts Chris! :) I'm "just" club class - about midway in the table in terms of position so potentially could get up there a bit with a few more tweaks. I do see your point though. I did consider getting a different vehicle once I decided to get into it, but had already invested some dosh in the car which wouldn't see on resale, plus I had some fondness for her to decided to see what could be done with her :)

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For my purpose this is for Time Attack

 

Like Wez said lightweight internals, i am currently re-building an engine and after a lot of research came to the conclusion Eagle rods and CP pistons were most suited to my needs, i know people will come on here and say Carrillo everytime but i went Eagle due to there light weight and the fact they let the engine rev quicker, my max power would be around 600hp fly and the Eagles are good up to around 800hp (from what i read), i know Carrillo rods are the dogs and will take 1000hp + but so what, as my car will never hit the level its a total waste of money for me, what i'm trying to say is you dont have to be blinded by mega bucks names like Carrillo and Jun, why in particular do you want to rev the car to 8500 rpm, where is the maximum efficiency of you turbo, dont forget above all else high revs kill engines

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When i was looking at specs for rebuilding mine i read bad things about eagle rods on supraforum, ill see if i can find a link.

 

EDIT, i read it from the mvp website.

We absolutely do not recommend these rods. The stock 2JZ-GTE rods are just as good as these. If you want nice rods then get Carrillo. We offer these in an effort to carry every product for your Supra, however we definitely do not recommend them.
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If I couldn't fit a JUN/Cosworth 3.2 I'd be going for;

 

CP's

Carillo H-Beams Rods

Stock crank, maybe knife edged (if that really helps parasitic losses??)

 

And if I was SERIOUSLY minted I'd be getting some special order Titanium Rods made...

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When i was looking at specs for rebuilding mine i read bad things about eagle rods on supraforum, ill see if i can find a link.

 

the only bad things were the rod bolts, all the new ones have 5/16 ARP rod bolts fitted as standard, i to ratched SF (when it works :eyebrows:) i could not find a single instance of rod failure for anything other than the old type rod bolts, if money were no object i would also go for titanium valves and retainers, just read your edit Jamie and yes the stock rods probably are as strong (if not stronger from looking at the ones in my garage) but the key is weight

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Ben,

 

It's a real nightmare wrestling against what your head is telling you, and what your heart wants you to do.

 

If you want to build an engine then personally I would look at keeping piston loadings as low as possible with decent components. Once that's done it's just a case of mapping.

 

However, as Chris has mentioned, I think if you invested that same money into spending time on the track, with the level of experience that all the drivers have, it would be much more beneficial.

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why in particular do you want to rev the car to 8500 rpm, where is the maximum efficiency of you turbo, dont forget above all else high revs kill engines

 

With the lighter stronger internals the various loads and stresses are reduced, you can then increase the revs to a level that produces sensible loads again. Thats my very basic understanding anyway :)

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Easy one this, Steve Linton's engine spec. Plus a nice inlet/tb. You know how much extra go go this has as you've seen it dissapear down the straights! And thats with a smaller turbo. Then again it might be that Trial rear bumper (parachute) holding you back! Dyno day next weekend will reveal all.

 

CP pistons/rings

Carrillo H-beam rods

Polished crankshaft

ACL race bearings/thrust washers

ARP main studs

Std Toyota oil pump

HKS 1.2mm head gasket

Full race cylinder head, Ferrea 1mm oversize valves, Ferrea valve springs, retainers, locaters, seals, ported to match inlet and exhaust manifold

ARP head studs

HKS 280 cams

HKS cam pulleys

HKS cambelt

ATi crank damper

Greddy pulleys

TTC billet idler pulley

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Was wondering when you would spot this one :-)

 

True, I was almost jumping up and down in my seat trying to get the car to keep with his on the straight - very impressive!

 

Yeah, we do need to look at fabricating something to stop the air potentially going into the trial rear ...

 

Easy one this, Steve Linton's engine spec. Plus a nice inlet/tb. You know how much extra go go this has as you've seen it dissapear down the straights! And thats with a smaller turbo. Then again it might be that Trial rear bumper (parachute) holding you back! Dyno day next weekend will reveal all.

 

CP pistons/rings

Carrillo H-beam rods

Polished crankshaft

ACL race bearings/thrust washers

ARP main studs

Std Toyota oil pump

HKS 1.2mm head gasket

Full race cylinder head, Ferrea 1mm oversize valves, Ferrea valve springs, retainers, locaters, seals, ported to match inlet and exhaust manifold

ARP head studs

HKS 280 cams

HKS cam pulleys

HKS cambelt

ATi crank damper

Greddy pulleys

TTC billet idler pulley

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