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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Sanding clearcoat?


Wazz72
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Guest SeniorOnion

NO, not if done properly! It is standard practice, (and the correct procedure) to ‘key’ any paint – clear or colour, before recoating. All you need to do is ensure that it is indeed fine paper you use (when I was the General Manager of the Toyota Paint shop in SA, before moving to the UK) we used to use P800 paper. Fine Scotch pad will also work. Just make sure all sanding residue / dust is properly removed before re-spraying. ;)

 

Dave

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I got a couple of drips on the wet coat, (2k Clearcoat) , how long before I can start removing them with a razor and 1500 W&D, also how long do you usually leave the clearcoat before you polish any imperfections out wit cutting paste?

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Guest Piston_Broke
It went on a bit to thin in parts last night

 

Grey scotch will be fine ( contrary to the first reply in this thread ) .

 

Drips etc in the lacquer can be removed with 1500-2000 wet and dry paper , but remember to use soapy water to stop the paper from clogging up and scoring the fresh lacquer.

 

The time that you have to wait before you can remove defects from the freshly applied lacquer will vary depending on the activator used and method of drying , although generallly you should be good to go in 16 hours ( air dry )

or 1-3 hours ( forced drying ).

 

Be carefull removing drips or runs with a razor blade to soon as you,ll find you end up with an indentation of the defect if the solvents have not completely evacuated from the substrate.

Best off to give it several hours ( air dry ) or half hour with the infra red lamp prior to flatting once the defect has been removed with a blade.

 

Oh and BTW this is my 1st post ......hello :nana:

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Contrary to all other replies its very much dependent on how the first re-coat is applied, it needs to be a wet coat, which takes experience to get right, so apologies, as i thought you had limited experience, hence the advice,otherwise you will be forever trying to get the scratches out! which will be under the last coat;)

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Guest Piston_Broke
Contrary to all other replies its very much dependent on how the first re-coat is applied, it needs to be a wet coat,

 

Sorry , but as long as a fine enough grade of flatting paper , or scotchbrite has been used you dont need to apply the laquer in any experienced manner .

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Sorry , but as long as a fine enough grade of flatting paper , or scotchbrite has been used you dont need to apply the laquer in any experienced manner .

 

i would agree with this. ive never applied a fresh coat in wet form before as i would almost definatly get runs all over the place. Always used a flash coat followed by a wet coat and never had problems

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