View Full Version : EGT temps. how do lower them?
MONKEYmark
14-11-03, 00:54
hi just trying to work out where do i go next.
i am in ttc mode again and egt`s are still high for me. have been hitting on close to 1000 degrees on full power. any info on how to lower egt`s.
running the following
BLITZ fmic LM v spec
BLITZ nur spec exhaust
BLITZ induction
BLITZ dump valve (fitted standard bov again)
BLITZ radiator cap 1.3 bar
HKS 264in 264ex Cams & Cam Gears
AQUMIST Water Injection
CW de-cat pipes
POWERHOUSE RACING chrome upper radiator pipe
Electronics
RACELOGIC Traction Control
TRL FCD fuel cut defender
HKS 60mm Electronic Boost gauge (with peak hold & playback)
HKS 60mm Electronic EGT gauge (with peak hold & playback)
Transmission
standard automatic transmission
POWERHOUSE RACING 3600 rpm Torque Convertor
B&M transmission cooler
was thinking of the following mods to do to be safe.
walbro 341 fuel pump
fse/fuel pressure regulator
fuel dampner bypass
fuel filter (changing)
also justin at torque ic sells 680cc injectors to fit stock rail think they are high impedence. would you need a resistor pack too or is that only needed if you fit uk 550cc injectors low impedence?. its all confusing to me and dont know what to do next. been told if i fit a larger pump it should help getting egt`s down. dont know if my standard injectors are maxing out.
been told i dont need a fse.
all i would like is to be safe. and get my egts down a bit. since i have had water injection fitted its come down a bit on normal driving. its just under hig boost they go to 1000 degrees. dont drive everywhere on full boost. and know its too high for car.
thanks for any info.
is there a real good fuel pressure regulator with built in gauge
What boost are you running Mark ?
MONKEYmark
14-11-03, 02:02
in ttc mode its hitting a high of 1.4bar
i have a restrictor ring but at time chris checked said its not needed. would like to be about 1.3bar
will have to check it out on way to chester tommorow and keep an eye on egt and boost gauge.
just was hoping to do some more smallish mods before it gets expensive. will get fueling checked out when i have a few mods done to fueling.
Sounds about right Monkey. You can read my mods below. I am running about 1.3bar and hitting about 900-950 EGTs. Kinda scares me! :eek:
From what I have read, I think theres not much we can do about it other than run extra fuel. Im pretty sure it comes down to the restrictive stock header. No time like now to go Single! :D
sounds like its detting and yr getting big ignition retard. the detting is probably down to running lean at those sorts of pressures. get that fueling checked and reduce the boost.
Have you thought about getting a wideband AFR?
If not get it on a dyno and see what the fueling is doing, where are these temps being read from, is the probe in the exhaust runner or the downpipe?
:thumbs:
MONKEYmark
14-11-03, 10:37
Originally posted by Wez
Have you thought about getting a wideband AFR?
If not get it on a dyno and see what the fueling is doing, where are these temps being read from, is the probe in the exhaust runner or the downpipe?
:thumbs: they are from where cw installs the egt probe, on header near front of engine.
will get the restrictor ring in and get it checked out. just trying to work out if the fueling mods might have helped.
thanks for advice.
when you say its detting dont it make a sound, car feels normal always use optimax.
thanks
ps would it be wise to get restrictor ring fitted along with fueling mods then get fueling checked out on rollers at thor, would i also need a fuel computer. i would buy AFR meter and probe, any off the shelf ones which would be worth buying.
Mines the same EGT on the header before the turbos. Its getting plenty of fuel and the SAFC2 was just tuned by Leon. I think its just a problem running that much boost on the stock header.
*shrug*
I am running 1BAR peaking at 1.2BAR with my EGT also mounted in the number one runner, I also have the first CAT in place so this stops alot of the heat getting away from the engine.
On track my EGT didn`t go above 920deg but if I do a hard run from fourth through to sixth I can hit about 980deg.
:thumbs:
Originally posted by Supraguy
Mines the same EGT on the header before the turbos. Its getting plenty of fuel and the SAFC2 was just tuned by Leon. I think its just a problem running that much boost on the stock header.
*shrug*
I agree, when we were mapping my car with the first CAT still in we could not get the engine quiet with any adjustment of fuel/timing at 1.2BAR, too much heat plus the turbos running out of effeciency range. My car was pulling stronger with the fuel/timing setup correctly at 1BAR than 1.2BAR.
I also have stock intercooler at the moment as well which prob doesn`t help :(
:thumbs:
MONKEYmark
14-11-03, 11:30
thanks for advice, will get onto getting some fueling mods on monday, going away for weekend. thought it was just me hitting high temps. ah well best get spending some more on credit card :)
have fun
I think 900 - 1000 is ok aslong as its not sitting there along time, if its your peak value then shoudn`t be to bad, someone please correct me if this is wrong.
I will also add that while I was on track I also used octane booster to be on the safe side.
:thumbs:
I can run 1.3 to 1.4bar on my mysterious hybrids and hooning up through the gears culminating at flat out in 6th, it won't go above 900degC. Same EGT probe location. FMIC, no WI. Sounds like the fuelling running lean or maybe the stock turbos are heating the intake air up that much more. Or both. It's not the manifold or turbo housings causing the problem yet.
-Ian
I think the first CAT still being in place is also causing alot of heat build up on my setup, need to bin it really, I have a restrictor ring just need to get a pipe and fit it.
:cool:
Also guys I think you find that the rear cylinders run a bit hotter.
Mark, you really need a pump.
Also on the injectors, The JDM run High Impedence as stock which are 13.8 ohm, whilst the UK's are approx 2.8 ohm. Any injectors you buy should be tested with a multimeter for resistance as fitting low impedance injectors to a JDM ecu without a resistor pack will cost you an engine.
Originally posted by Wez
I also have the first CAT in place
how u getting good wbo2 readings with a cat in? r u reading before the cat?
btw mine wont go above 900 ish
WB02 is before the CAT :)
:thumbs:
The mechanical properties of the lower grade stainless steels degrade very quickly at aroung 950 -1000 degrees you should be careful you dont damage anything.
This is especially true if you have the first CAT in. I guess that you should be okay with radiant heat as at the speeds required to generate EGT's of 1000 degrees there should be enough cold air passing to drag the heat away from the engine bay.
Also guys I think you find that the rear cylinders run a bit hotter.
Mark, you really need a pump.
mmmmmmm........ it was FOUR and FIVE that melted on mine...
I was running ~ 1.4 at the time although I DON'T have a
FMIC and it WAS at Elvington on that EXTRA hot Sunday, and
1/4s Top-Speeds are the WORST time for EGTs 'cos the car's
not getting ANY 'moving-cooling' IYKWIM ???
PUMP ! ! ! ! !
..............NOW ! ! ! ! :p
Have you any idea how hard it is being right all the time:innocent:
Seriously, I have my rear cylinders richened up slightly.
After my little 'escepade' I'm pretty sure that's what the UK bonnet
scoop IS all about ??
I know someone already said (Phil ?) they'd seen a head with cracks
on the exhaust side between 4 & 5 ???
and the UK scoop 'feed' supplies the air down to the exhaust ports
in that area.......
......I THINK ???
obviously the Jap's don't have quite such hot weather ?
(or, they don't sit in queues waiting for a 30second blast like us
IDIOTS do ???:sly: )
It gets a fuckload hotter in the US, and they dont have hood scoops. Kinda kills that theory of necessity, but I guess its nice to have. :)
MONKEYmark
17-11-03, 19:49
would it be best to be in TTC mode or in sequential mode?
in TTC mode at moment you cant put power down as car goes sideways when both turbos kick in.
going to try sort it out if its possible with a few fuel mods to be safer. would a cold air feed help or would it just be no use?
Matt Harwood
17-11-03, 20:01
Mark, my EGT's dropped by about 50-75 degrees when I had the pump and regulator fitted.
It would hold 1.25 at 900 during a top speed run, and climb to 950 if I ran just over 1.3bar whilst doing 1/4's
Please do something sooner rather than rebuilding!
Originally posted by Matt Harwood
Please do something sooner rather than rebuilding!
monkey, how can u not do it now? :)
shall I re-post me pics of me MELTED PISTONS ? ? ? :eek:
shall I list me costs/parts/WEIGHT-of-TEARS-shed ? ? ? :(
MARK ! ! don't you remember the PATHETIC sight/sound of me
and my Dad 'limpin' off down the road on 4-pots ? ? ? ? :confused:
MONKEYmark
18-11-03, 01:10
thanks for all your help and info. will get onto it asap
love you all
heres a big hug and a glass of sherry and a mince pie for you
xxx
xx
x
i love this site, so many nice people and only 1 tosser
Dragonball
18-11-03, 08:09
Originally posted by MONKEYmark
i love this site, so many nice people and only 1 tosser
Who told you? I'll kill 'em!:p
Mark, running TTC is fine. The highest my EGT's ever got was 950, and that was right on the change over, then they'd drop to 800, but I had plenty of fuel. You are removing the change over so it will help at that point. My probe was in # 6 BTW.
Sorry for the dumb arse question but which number is front and back, ie is cylinder 1 nearest the bumper?
:thumbs:
YES Wez......
.......as long as you don't have a MAJOR wallop...
.....OR, your engine DOESN'T stay in ONE PIECE ! ! !
:p
(presuming you meant the FRONT bumper ? :D )
FatS.
[DAMN... Eyefi to bloody FAST ! ! !]
Cheers guys,
so what we are saying here then is the cylinders at the back of the engine run hotter, which sounds resonable as more heat can build up and not escape.
:thumbs:
MONKEYmark
18-11-03, 19:50
would a trd vented bonnet help get heat out of engine? as the stock jap bonnet seems a bit closed in.
just fitted my cw restrictor ring tonight at a local exhaust making place. the bloke was asking what it was for, i told him it was over boosting and he was saying why dont you just turn down the acctuator. i said its not like a cossie one where you can turn it up and down with a screw.
got it fitted car still over boosts to 1.4 with overdrive off (3 gears)
with overdrive on it seems to be about 1.3 bar. struggling for traction now. i know its not best time of year with roads been wet. been testing my launching out in TTC mode car spins then gets traction and squirms about. its mad in TTC mode as it sends car sideways too easy. you cant put power down fast but it sure is a kick when it comes online with 2 turbos.
its that bad time of year when you dont need big power. just got my astra on road again for everyday use, it has no power steering and its hard to drive with out it.
just looking round for some fuel mods and prices.
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