View Full Version : Head gasket - how much?
Just blew my head gasket, bloody great smoke everywhere, just got a lfit back from the pick-up guy...:(
How much am I looking at to get it sorted?
Really gutted and pissed off:(
Hi Razza,
Dont want to be a wet blanket to your troubles, but it will very much depend on wether or not you ran the car on, after the engine started to over-heat.
I've had head gaskets go on three cars over the years and sorry to say, each one required the head to be skimmed as it had warped as a result of the gasket blowing.
The problem you will have with skimming any overhead cam engine is that if the head is skimmed, say 20 thou, then it will need to have the valve stems simmilarly skimmed, to ensure the valves do not go through the pistons.
There is now an alternative which in its basic terms is the fitting of a steel plate between head and block to make up the amount of metal removed by skimming........Ive done this successfully once to turbo diesel Astra, but in all cases the head gasket going required a head-skim.
Can I suggest you look at the cost of a replacement head rahter than skimming, if you need to go this way, as it can work out about even on cost when you take into consideration the cost of valves, springs, cams etc.,
If your doing it yourself then just replacing the head gasket might work, but it usually doesnt, but you can minimise the cost going this route as a suck it and see. The local Toyota garage will advise head gasket costs etc. even for imports.....same engine as UK models.
Rgds
George
Razza - think Miami was selling a standard TT head for £275
Edit: Link http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=129203
Hi Razza,
Dont want to be a wet blanket to your troubles, but it will very much depend on wether or not you ran the car on, after the engine started to over-heat.
I din't have any overheating issues, it suddenly happened, speaking with James at Toyota Gt earlier he had a brief look at it and reckons it's the turbo that's gone as there was shed loads of oil coming out of the induction kit and oil on the truck underneath the turbo side.
I'm sure it looked like a creamy paste under the filler cap last night, but it was dark, and other signs, i.e. pure white smoke and the smell made me and the recovery believe it was the gasket...I'll have to wait and see once they get to look at it next week.
sounds like min. turbo replacement, max, new head as well.....:search:
Supra-Brett
31-10-07, 19:46
Oh dear, sorry to hear that.
On the up side, at least my N/A will beat you now, after my pasting on the way home from madjedski the other week :)
Oh dear, sorry to hear that.
On the up side, at least my N/A will beat you now, after my pasting on the way home from madjedski the other week :)
you know what, that actually bought a smile to my face after the crap couple of days I've had. I'm having to get a whole new engine.....:(
mattysupra
31-10-07, 20:48
What? a new engine? how come?
Mine cost about £1500 all in from Chris Wilson.
Mine cost about £1500 all in from Chris Wilson.
What did that include matey?
What? a new engine? how come?
parts of the turbo blade were sent round the engine, meaning it would need a full rebuild and boring etc. etc. 5 out of 6 cyclinders are leaking at 60%+. cheaper to get a new engine.
so actually this wasn't a head gasket problem which started this, it was a massive turbo failure causing all the other issues....
The problem you will have with skimming any overhead cam engine is that if the head is skimmed, say 20 thou, then it will need to have the valve stems simmilarly skimmed, to ensure the valves do not go through the pistons.
Are you talking about changing the amount the valves open by changing the tappet clearance?
:blink:
What did that include matey?
I had the car droped off to Chris by flatbed. He then removed the head skimmed it and replaced the head gasket. Then it was put back together again. I've got a receipt somwhere, but can't remember exactly what was on it - I think the majority of the cost was labour TBH.
Are you talking about changing the amount the valves open by changing the tappet clearance?
:blink:
Thats seems like what he's saying, grind back the valve stem to lessen the amount they open - seems a bit crazy to me as well - I hope a garage didn't recommend this to you :blink:
Hi Difsy,
This is a standard requirement if you skim an overhad camshaft engine......sorry to say.
If you think about it, pre-skim the camshaft will open the valve to its fullest extent and most pistons are now recessed on the crown to allow a high compression at TDC and still give clearance in the middle stroke when the valves are open.
Now skim 20 thou off the head, so the valve head is now going to protrude 20thou more than it did before, which can be enough to allow the valve head and piston crown to touch.
Fitting a plate between head and block replaces the 20thou removed, otherwise you need to re-adjust/reduce the valve travel at the cam-shaft end which is just as, if not more expensive.
New head is usually the best answer.
Hope above is a better explanation.
Rgds
George
Dude, you've got near 3mm of travel with stock cams before it becomes interference, not <20thou. Where on earth did you get that info from.
Also, I wouldn't trust a 20thou thick bit of flat metal to seal, makes an utter mockery of a multilayer metal HG with fire land rings and so forth. And recommending looking at a new head?! They are something like £1500!
These aren't Diesel Astras...
-Ian
Hi Difsy,
Hope above is ignored as it's completely insane! lol
Rgds
George
*IF* the HG has gone and 40thou (yes 40!!!) has to be skimmed off, use the HKS or Toyota thicker HG's that are SPECIFICALLY designed for this sort of thing. An HKS Multi Layer Metal HG 1.6mm's thick will return your engine to the correct compression ratio.
Do Not, under any circumstances do anything to the valves (unless they are actually damaged), camshaft or anything else.
The 2JZ is a non interference engine and has well over 2mm's of room between the valves and the stock pistons at TDC.
I'd be more worried about the shock loads on the valvetrain by suddenly increasing the cold clearance from 0.2mm to 0.7mm. The gentle opening and closing ramps are only going to be about 0.2mm high before you hit peak valve acceleration. If you increase the cold clearance then tappet is going to get a good old slap every time the cam comes around.
I wouldn't reccomend any body adopts this approach at all.
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