keeping the supra

After much thinking, deliberating and discussing with members, I have decided to keep my car :D!!

Since having 2nd dibbs on this:

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=127692

I have decided to close this:

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=126659

And to finish my project!

I have been asking a lot of questions around engine conversions and other/replacement engines fo the supra.

I have also decided to wait a little while longer for the GTR, but will still be looking for 1 in about a years time. Pity, but will be worth wait.

The idea is for the GTR to become a decent modified daily drive car and the supra will become the weekend fun track car.

So with that in mind I still want to do the engine conversion, but that will be one of he last things that get done. When I am ready for that, I will be selling the TT engine, mods and maybe the gearbox.

But until then, I will be stripping the car even more, getting as much weight out, doing some work around the brakes and suspension and eventually an engine swap.

Thanks to all the guys I have spoken with, it may not have been directly related to my supra or my plans, but it is these conversations that have made up my mind!

Supra owner forever

good luck m8!

thanks

Nice one mate

big plans for the next year

10ltr conversion?

6 cylinder split engine?

faster than a f1 car?...

10ltr conversion?

6 cylinder split engine?

faster than a f1 car?...

smaller engine, similar power, maybe a little more, but less weight and weight further back giving a lot more space in the engine bay.

Nowt to do with me, but smaller displacement and similar power = little reliability, a need for very good fuel, and the need to rev the thing to hell and back. Make no mistakes the 4 cylinder powered Japanese GT Championship cars were fickle as hell, needed race fuel, rebuilds after each race, and cost a FORTUNE to run the engines. The 503E engines were totally dissimilar to the 3S-GTE lumps in every way. The car will still be a heavy lump whatever you do to it, and asking any turbo engine of under 2.5 litres to make it go as well as pump fuel tolerant 3 litre turbo will be expensive. Very expensive. Don't dismiss a light alloy blocked US V8 in N/A form, but with plenty of CC's. They'll be reliable, have mega torque, and be quite, quite unlike any turbo engine for instant pin you in the seat grunt. Big capacity turbo engines are fairly easy to get big HP figures from, small ones are not

nice one. i didn't want it anyway..lol good man

Nowt to do with me, but smaller displacement and similar power = little reliability, a need for very good fuel, and the need to rev the thing to hell and back. Make no mistakes the 4 cylinder powered Japanese GT Championship cars were fickle as hell, needed race fuel, rebuilds after each race, and cost a FORTUNE to run the engines. The 503E engines were totally dissimilar to the 3S-GTE lumps in every way. The car will still be a heavy lump whatever you do to it, and asking any turbo engine of under 2.5 litres to make it go as well as pump fuel tolerant 3 litre turbo will be expensive. Very expensive. Don't dismiss a light alloy blocked US V8 in N/A form, but with plenty of CC's. They'll be reliable, have mega torque, and be quite, quite unlike any turbo engine for instant pin you in the seat grunt. Big capacity turbo engines are fairly easy to get big HP figures from, small ones are not

Chris, first thing, good post

The goal of my car is for it to become a road going track car mostly and multiple event style comps (handling, top speed, quarter mile).

I will not be driving the much, I do less than 5000 miles a year as is. Saying that, I dont want something that is permanently breaking down, or breaking engines. However I have no issue with servicing it every 1000 - 2000 miles...

I have only really been into the jap cars, so dont know much about the v8s. Would be interested to hear what you have to say with regards to which engine and gearbox, power, weight, fitting to a supra, etc.

The alloy block and head castings come at a premium, but a cast iron lump will be VERY heavy. having said that a well built all ally Chevy V8 is a VERY saleable commodity and they hold their values well. If you bought on from the US , built, you can find bargains with the exchange rate. It'd need a strong box, it would tear the Getrag up in no time. There are loads of US made manual boxes, both race boxes, and conversions to road car boxes that would handle it, and would bolt straight up to the block with an off the shelf bellhousing and clutch. You need something of at least 454 CU inches (7200 cc) to be in the serious league, 10 litre plus is attainable with off the shelf components, but things get very pricey then. It'd be nice on EFI, but a big carb will work fine. It'll sup fuel, but so will any engine making serious power. There'd be a fair bit of fabrication, but trust me, nothing like as much as when you are into turbos, I/C's, wastegates, wastegate pipes, massive heat issues, blah blah. You need to get some of the American V8 mags (Hot Rod?) The tuning scene for Chevy V8's is still ultra strong over there. GM do a factory book listing current performance blocks, heads, cams and stuff, all with GM development. I am a bit out of touch, and can't recall what it's called, but you can buy them in the UK. By building something akin to one the factory motors you know it'll work.

http://www.race-cars.com/ have an engines for sale section, you sometimes find all ally Chevy V8's in there, at sensible money. OK this one is an iron block, with ali heads, but that sort of power and torque, for that sort of money...?

http://www.race-cars.com/engsales/chevy/1116175889/1116175889ss.htm

The alloy block and head castings come at a premium, but a cast iron lump will be VERY heavy. having said that a well built all ally Chevy V8 is a VERY saleable commodity and they hold their values well. If you bought on from the US , built, you can find bargains with the exchange rate. It'd need a strong box, it would tear the Getrag up in no time. There are loads of US made manual boxes, both race boxes, and conversions to road car boxes that would handle it, and would bolt straight up to the block with an off the shelf bellhousing and clutch. You need something of at least 454 CU inches (7200 cc) to be in the serious league, 10 litre plus is attainable with off the shelf components, but things get very pricey then. It'd be nice on EFI, but a big carb will work fine. It'll sup fuel, but so will any engine making serious power. There'd be a fair bit of fabrication, but trust me, nothing like as much as when you are into turbos, I/C's, wastegates, wastegate pipes, massive heat issues, blah blah. You need to get some of the American V8 mags (Hot Rod?) The tuning scene for Chevy V8's is still ultra strong over there. GM do a factory book listing current performance blocks, heads, cams and stuff, all with GM development. I am a bit out of touch, and can't recall what it's called, but you can buy them in the UK. By building something akin to one the factory motors you know it'll work.

 

http://www.race-cars.com/ have an engines for sale section, you sometimes find all ally Chevy V8's in there, at sensible money. OK this one is an iron block, with ali heads, but that sort of power and torque, for that sort of money...?

 

http://www.race-cars.com/engsales/chevy/1116175889/1116175889ss.htm

Chris, Thanks!

I will go and look for some of those mags today

I am definitely going to start looking into these as an option as well. Got a few months before I want to do this work, so now is the time to research it

For sale thread closed for you.

For sale thread closed for you.

Appreciate it