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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Ducting of FMIC half done


jevansio
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Started to duct my FMIC today in an attempt to make it more efficient (and try and drop my EGTs slightly).

 

1 large sheet of aluminium from Homebase & many cardboard templates later & one side is done (see attached).

 

Took the car out after and it felt amazing at 0.8 BAR, but don't know if thats just a placebo effect.

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well i think ill be doing this aswell.....

I'll keep the templates, I think you'll be impressed when you see it in real life.

 

Will you still get adequate airflow to your rad??

Gonna keep an eye on my water temp, as long as it stays in the normal range I guess its OK.

 

Looks good, have you thought about Water Injection ??

Certainly have, but I want it to be the last thing on, ie I want the car running as cool as possible via all other means, then I'll add the WI as a final safety measure :)

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Looks good:)

Need to duct my XS Power FMIC i think...Any tips/advice;)

 

Jamie

Yeah, I'll put up the dimensions of my template if you want. If you're just after tips though, get your card template correct before using the final aluminium. I got all my stuf from Homebase, I can do a breakdown when I've finished it if you want.

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nice one that man, people usually just slap on intercoolers, oil coolers etc and never bother with the ducting just look at the care Mr Toyota takes to duct stock parts, we go to all the expense of "uprated" parts and without the ducting its probably less effecient than the stock bits

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Yeah, I'll put up the dimensions of my template if you want. If you're just after tips though, get your card template correct before using the final aluminium. I got all my stuf from Homebase, I can do a breakdown when I've finished it if you want.

 

Templates would be good ;)

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nice one that man, people usually just slap on intercoolers, oil coolers etc and never bother with the ducting just look at the care Mr Toyota takes to duct stock parts, we go to all the expense of "uprated" parts and without the ducting its probably less effecient than the stock bits

 

steveyboy has done a quality job on his car ducting his oil/transmission cooler....I guess working for porsche though he has no excuses not to know the benifits

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ive fitted an after market FMIC and havnt ducted it, does this effect the performance quite alot then? what is the ducting actualy for? doesnt the FMIC just work at full efficiency. never seen this done before so very interested to learn why this is done

I've no idea what effects it will have in terms of bhp, the only way to tell I guess is to use one of those in car bhp guessers before & after. It is done to stop air from taking the easy route past the FMIC (ie arounds the sides, top & bottom).

 

how much would this lower egt's by?

Not sure, I get the feeling not a lot :), I'm doing it primeraly now to get my intake charge as cool & dense as possible.

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It is done to stop air from taking the easy route past the FMIC (ie arounds the sides, top & bottom).

 

fully agree, where i noticed ducting the most was with my transmission coolers which really struggled to cope without ducting, as jevansio explains without ducts you will loose a percentage of the air that should be going through the cooler, this would be very hard to measure but any cooler be it an intercooler, radiator or oil cooler will not work at 100% of its effeciency without good ducting, as i mentioned earlier have a look at how Mr T ducts a stock radiator or a stock intercooler it is virtually a total seal

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For Fluidyne transmission coolers the location & ducting of the stock intercooler is ideal, and you can sandwich 3 coolers together possibly using one for the power steering cooling.

 

If anyone wants to nake some of these intercooler shrouds out of aluminium but doesn't have the facilities for welding & wants a clean finish (i.e. no pop rivets) then try some aluminium brazing rods. They are almost as strong as a weld & can be used with a butane blowtorch.

 

A complete kit available here. http://www.easyweld.com/store.cfm/pid/25/TS-Kit

Includes a £40 blow torch and 2 £10 bottles of gas.

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For Fluidyne transmission coolers the location & ducting of the stock intercooler is ideal, and you can sandwich 3 coolers together possibly using one for the power steering cooling.

 

If anyone wants to nake some of these intercooler shrouds out of aluminium but doesn't have the facilities for welding & wants a clean finish (i.e. no pop rivets) then try some aluminium brazing rods. They are almost as strong as a weld & can be used with a butane blowtorch.

 

A complete kit available here. Includes a £40 blow torch and 2 £10 bottles of gas.

 

 

I know the kits you mean. i have one at home for similar applications. The company i got mine from was easyweld.

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Finished off fitting the other side tonight I've got a parts list, general template & tips & pics if you're interested.

 

My intercooler is an XS Power with a core width of 600mm, I think the HKS & Greddy 3 Rows are the same so could fit also but it's best to make a card template first to double check before cutting the alumimium.

 

Disclaimer : I accept no responsibility for anything you do to your car, use this information at your own risk.

 

Parts:

1 of Sheet of 1m x 0.5m x 0.5mm raw aluminium (Homebase £21)

2 of 1m x 40mm x 20mm L shaped aluminium (Homebase)

8 of #185 bolt M6 flat head (Homebase)

8 of large washer for M6 bolt

8 of spring washer for M6 bolt

8 of nut for M6 bolt

Sheets of cardboard for templates

 

Tools:

Drill & bits

Stanley knife

Spanners / Sockets

Pencil / Ruler

 

This is a pic of the shape I made, it's not to scale, coloured arrows show parallel lines, blue squares show 90 deg corners, numbers show the length of the line they're beside in mm.

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This is a pic of one of my cardboard templates & an initial one I cut from aluminium as a tester. Note how some of the tabs have snapped off the real one, this is because you can't bend 0.5mm thick aluminium many times before it snaps.

 

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To install this you'll need to cut part of the front bumper away. In the following pic, the flat area where the 3 studs are is 40mm deep, do this the width the bumper.

 

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I you've a facelift like me you'll need to remove the facelift grill bar. When removed, trim the sides of the bumper mouth so that only 1 of the mounting holes remains. None facelift will have to drill this hole.

 

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I created this in 2 halfs to make installation easier & to avoid having to use sheets bigger than 1m. Each half is a mirror of the other and the two will overlap once installed. Use the dimensions on the above template to create yourself one from thin cardboard to ensure it fits your intercooler. Once happy make the real thing, I used scissors to cut the aluminium sheet once I'd marked it out with a pencil & rule. Note the 2 additional cuts at the bottom to make the bottom tabs.

 

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Now you can start bending the sheet into shape. I placed the shape over a sharp edge and applied pressure each side to get the edges where I wanted them. WARNING : 0.5mm aluminium can only bend so many times before breaking, try & get it correct 1st time. This is the final shape from as many angles as I could get.

 

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Now jack the car up to aid access & install the ducting from below. The 1st half should be easier to install than the 2nd half. The tab at the top goes between the bumper & the crash bar (you'll have to pull the bumper out of shape to help get the tab there). The other tabs also go against the non-visible side of the front mouth.

 

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Mark & drill 3 holes 140mm apart on the side of the bumper you're working on. Facelift can use the side hole from the facelift bar but non facelift will have to drill this 4th side hole.

 

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Hold the ducting in place & mark on the ducting (using the holes) where you will have to drill 4 holes to mount the ducting against the bumper. Remove the ducting & drill the holes.

 

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This is the setup I used on each mounting point.

 

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Now you just need to bolt it up, this is easier said than done & will require much swearing as you try to put 2 washers & a nut on a downward facing bolt with not much access space.

 

Once done it should look like this.

 

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Top ducting & brackets is in next couple of posts.......

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