Sean1933 Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Well as the title says really. last time my tires were changed some prat of a garage did the lcoking nuts up too tight. When i tried to undo it 2 of the lugs on the locking nut snapped off I took it to a garage to see if they could get them off with their "special tools". 1 came off, but not the other 3. in the process on of the rears is now really messed up as they tried to hit it with a chissel which just broke it up, now theres very little to get grip onto. I also took it to an engineering company but they said they couldnt weld to it without damaging the wheel, help!!! Front Left: Front Right: Rear Right: This is the bad 1, the garage really messed it up as there is nothing really to grab or bang a nut onto! The one i got off!: You can see where the lugs should fit in. Locking key remains!: There used to be 4 square lugs on here!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurgen-Jm-Imports Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 need to get nut welded on mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean1933 Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 Thats what i was thinking but the welding company i spoke to dont think there is enough room as they cant get to the side of it. Plus they said it would cause alot of heat that could ruin the rim! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 need to get nut welded on mate You should be able to weld a nut on there without damaging the wheel...!! I would just tac a 19mm nut on and weld up the middle. You may get a tiny bit of spatter on the wheel at worst! There would be heat but as long as you didn't go mad I would expect to get away with it. Let's face it, what other ideas have you got? H. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Carefully centrepunch dead centre and drill out the stud.(pilot first) If you try to weld a nut from the centre, you may tack the nut to the stud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Carefully centrepunch dead centre and drill out the stud.(pilot first) That's the ticket! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean1933 Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 You should be able to weld a nut on there without damaging the wheel...!! I would just tac a 19mm nut on and weld up the middle. You may get a tiny bit of spatter on the wheel at worst! There would be heat but as long as you didn't go mad I would expect to get away with it. Let's face it, what other ideas have you got? H. Weld on a nut as aposed to a socket...that could work i guess! What about if u put a socket on there over the remains of the nut and weld them together on the inside of the socket, ie through where u will then attach the breaker bar? Or isnt there enough room to do that. Welding is one of those things on the list to learn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean1933 Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 Carefully centrepunch dead centre and drill out the stud.(pilot first) If you try to weld a nut from the centre' date=' you may tack the nut to the stud [/quote'] Really didnt like the idea of welding! Then again drilling it sounds like a right bitch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 That's the ticket! Won't the nut be harder than a bishops dick?? I thought that drilling it would have been a real PITA with it still on the car! H. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Use high quality drill bits and a little perserverence should be easy as they are relatively soft. Will need to replace studs obviously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Nut and stud are relatively soft, any decent titanium coated drill bits will laugh at them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyspar Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 maybe try easy outs mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean1933 Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 maybe try easy outs mate whats that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyspar Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 drill a hole as previously suggested and use what some call an easy out its a reverse threaded tool to removed damaged or snapped bolts ,scewfix have em i think but get good quality ones or you will end up with a snapped easy out stuck in your bolts aswell http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/ http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=ATDDDV3EV0QFQCSTHZOCFFY?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=bolt+remover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean1933 Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 drill a hole as previously suggested and use what some call an easy out its a reverse threaded tool to removed damaged or snapped bolts ,scewfix have em i think but get good quality ones or you will end up with a snapped easy out stuck in your bolts aswell http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/ http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=ATDDDV3EV0QFQCSTHZOCFFY?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=bolt+remover I know what you mean now, but i cant see how that would work as its the stud i will be drilling into not the nut...as there isnt a 'middle' so to speak of the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DaveWilko Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Easyouts wont work on the stud. It isn't screwed into the hub. The idea is to remove the bit the nut is screwed onto by drilling it out so the nut just falls out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyspar Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 ohh i see what you mean now,f**in grease monkeys.dont know if spark eroding might do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean1933 Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 Easyouts wont work on the stud. It isn't screwed into the hub. The idea is to remove the bit the nut is screwed onto by drilling it out so the nut just falls out. Whats what i thought, thanks for clearing that up Screwfix tomorrow me thinks! Anyone know the partnumber for the toyota studs? Im just being lazy not i know Thanks for all your help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_gray Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 What a proper engineer would do would to weld something (a nut maybe) internally to the stud. If its a good weld them it will turn. If not the he would drill the stud (in the middle) and try EASY OUTS (as prescribed in earlier post). Befors this he could maybe try heating the whole area, This would expand the stud aswell as the whole area around the stud. This would expand the stud but also the area arounds the stud. The stud should then contract qiucker than ther surrounding area and, maybe loosen the stud, so that it can be undone. If uit has beeen drilled in the center then it can be drilled out to the point that the stud will break up. If not the spark erroding is your only bet. This should get the pin out leaving the tread intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_gray Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Just had a better look at your pics and by the looks of them the loking nuts dont seem to be damaged. With an impact wrench and your adapter they shoud come off. By impact wrench i onabout the handheld ones you hold in your hand and hit with a hammer and not the one's that they put on the end of air lines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 What a proper engineer would do would to weld something (a nut maybe) internally to the stud. If its a good weld them it will turn. If not the he would drill the stud (in the middle) and try EASY OUTS (as prescribed in earlier post). Befors this he could maybe try heating the whole area, This would expand the stud aswell as the whole area around the stud. This would expand the stud but also the area arounds the stud. The stud should then contract qiucker than ther surrounding area and, maybe loosen the stud, so that it can be undone. If uit has beeen drilled in the center then it can be drilled out to the point that the stud will break up. If not the spark erroding is your only bet. This should get the pin out leaving the tread intact. I think a proper engineer would realise that wheel studs are fitted into the hubs from the rear and have a shoulder and splines, so there is no hope of removing them with easy outs. Drilling the stud with the same sized drill is probably the only option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DaveWilko Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 What a proper engineer would do would to weld something (a nut maybe) internally to the stud. If its a good weld them it will turn. If not the he would drill the stud (in the middle) and try EASY OUTS (as prescribed in earlier post). Befors this he could maybe try heating the whole area, This would expand the stud aswell as the whole area around the stud. This would expand the stud but also the area arounds the stud. The stud should then contract qiucker than ther surrounding area and, maybe loosen the stud, so that it can be undone. If uit has beeen drilled in the center then it can be drilled out to the point that the stud will break up. If not the spark erroding is your only bet. This should get the pin out leaving the tread intact. OMG! A proper engineer would know that the studs are pressed into the hub from inside and are on SPLINES, not screwed in. Hence no amount of screwing will turn the studs! Yes you could try TIG welding a socket to the locknut but thats a lot of heat very close to some nice, soft alloy wheel. Why risk scorching the wheel when 5 minutes with a centre punch and drill will remove most of the stud from inside the locknut. Then you try using the damaged locknut key again. The hollowed out stud breaks off taking the locknut with it Btw I hope this isn't insulting you but drill slowly. If you go in at full speed the drill bit will heat up too much and blunt very quickly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DaveWilko Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Damn you Tricky Ricky! You beat me lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_gray Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Arr yes, you would be right. Hops clouded one's judgement. if this is true then drilling to the right size wont make a difference as the thread will still remain, or you will drill the thread out of your wheel hub. hopefully someone can weld something to the top of your nut. If not im unsure on what can be done, dont know how the thread is secured into the hub of the wheel. could to allthread through the hub, or could have been machined as one piece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DaveWilko Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah! All becomes clear! You think the nut screws into the hub! If that was true you would be spot on mate. Its not though There are studs poking out of the hub that the alloy slips over and nuts screw onto the studs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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