is copper greese any good?

Ive been using to try and unstick a sticky caliper but it just keeps resticking. I assume its the main piston as everything else is always VERY free when I dismantle it!

Basically im wondering if there is anything better than copper grease?

Ive been using to try and unstick a sticky caliper but it just keeps resticking. I assume its the main piston as everything else is always VERY free when I dismantle it!

 

 

Basically im wondering if there is anything better than copper greese?

its the wrong stuff to be using, copper grease is abrasive. you need some sort of rubber grease or white grease in the piston

Elbow Grease?!

its the wrong stuff to be using, copper grease is abrasive. you need some sort of rubber grease or white grease in the piston

Is white grease heat resistant Abs?

its the wrong stuff to be using, copper grease is abrasive. you need some sort of rubber grease or white grease in the piston

surely copper is far less abrasive than the metal piston pushing against a metal brake pad backing?

Prefer KY jelly

lol - But surely we can leave the sarky comments (Funny how one was) when we're talking about a members brakes?...

A ring of surface corrosion builds up on the caliper between the piston seal and dust cover. Once it starts the only way to cure it is to strip the caliper and clean it up carefully with wet dry paper (800 grit and make sure you dont score inside the seal) or a new caliper.

Just intrested, but I thought it was best to use copper grease, just checking after white grease was mentioned:)

copper grease Protects metal parts against rust, corrosion. it does not have a good lubricating function. hence the use of white grease/red rubber grease etc etc . copper grease on brake components is normally used on the shims between pads and calpers if fitted. but i will have to agree with TRICKTT that a full strip down will be needed

full strip down? pull the piston out completely or is that not possible? So white greese is the way to go? can i get that from a local halfrauds?

thanks for the replies... i appreciate the technical knowledge of you lot

The Toyota brake piston refurb kit comes with a sachet of the proper grease.

The grease used on the sliding pins in J-spec brakes is different stuff. Lithium based, I think. I got some suitable stuff from CW.

Thats intresting thanks:)

there is a guide to caliper refurb here: HERE

(Starts from post 10) Caliper refurb kit is around £30 IIRC

DO NOT use anything other than the correct rubber grease, which is a viscous form of brake fluid, or brake fluid itself to lubricate anything within the bore of the caliper itself. Copper grease, "white" grease etcetera are a total and utter no no.

Thanks for the input Chris.

Its a 2000 celica TRD Sport-M. Do I need to ask Toyota for the correct grease?

I might sound like a retard now but how do i get the piston out of the caliper? lol

http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/Product.asp?iProductID=25689

Would this tool save me draining the fluid providing the hose is rubber?

I might sound like a retard now but how do i get the piston out of the caliper? lol

Unbolt the caliper from the hanger and take out the pads. Get an assistant to slowly pump the brake pedal ( make sure the resevoir is full) while you hold the caliper, and you will see the piston start to come out. When it gets most of the way out, you can remove the brake line and either poll it the last bit with some grips, or blow it out with compressed air.

If you've still got rubber hoses you can clamp them with a wad of rag and mole grips, but the best solution is to use a nut and bolt through the banjo and the copper washers from the old fitting. You will need to replace the washers - i think they are included in the toyota refurb kit.

Just buy 2 decent (TUV approved) exchange calipers, it'll make a LOT of sense in the long run.

Approx how much you think it'd be Chris?

Unbolt the caliper from the hanger and take out the pads. Get an assistant to slowly pump the brake pedal ( make sure the resevoir is full) while you hold the caliper, and you will see the piston start to come out. When it gets most of the way out, you can remove the brake line and either poll it the last bit with some grips, or blow it out with compressed air.

If you've still got rubber hoses you can clamp them with a wad of rag and mole grips, but the best solution is to use a nut and bolt through the banjo and the copper washers from the old fitting. You will need to replace the washers - i think they are included in the toyota refurb kit.

whats a banjo? isnt it a musical instrument? lol

Thanks for the help

whats a banjo? isnt it a musical instrument? lol

 

Thanks for the help

Its the metal bit with the hole in at the end of the brake line, that bolts onto the caliper with the hollow bolt - dont know why its called a banjo - except it looks a bit like one - maybe - from a long way away.