Pig Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 All seems fine - dont know what fine is though What i did was crank until the needle stopped rising. Is that correct? 1. 145 psi 2. 150 psi 3. 147 psi 4. 149 psi 5. 147 psi 6. 145 psi Are these fugures good, bad or ok? Brearing in mind its a new engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branners Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 might be worth posting what internals you had put in during the rebuild. JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted July 19, 2007 Author Share Posted July 19, 2007 CP Pistons Carrillo Rods Ferrea Exhaust Valves - Stock Size Ferrea Intake Valves - Stock Size Ferrea Spring seat locators Ferrea Intake Valve Guides Ferrea Valve lock Ferrea Duel Valve Springs Ferrea Retainers 2.0 HKS Head Gasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 Sounds OK to me for new engine, compression will probably be better with a few thousand miles on it, i always turn it over until it won't pump anymore, only takes about four revolutions, but i have heard that you should only crank for set number, can't see any difference really, as one way you get the maximum that particular cylinder is capable of pumping, and the other a figure that it can pump in whatever revolutions, sod all in it in my books. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz6002 Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 You don't have a big difference between the cylinders and you're at (very approximately) 10PSI on all 6 so looks good. I was dropping 1.5 bar over all 6 (highest to lowest) when I had a cracked block and warped head and this works out to around 21PSI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted July 19, 2007 Author Share Posted July 19, 2007 You don't have a big difference between the cylinders and you're at (very approximately) 10PSI on all 6 so looks good. I was dropping 1.5 bar over all 6 (highest to lowest) when I had a cracked block and warped head and this works out to around 21PSI. That is with a few thousand miles on it. Prob about 3000 now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 The lack of variance among cylinders is GOOD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprafan72 Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 Looks good jon, How many revolutions did you pump on each cylinder, did they rise evenly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 Looks good jon, How many revolutions did you pump on each cylinder, did they rise evenly? IIRC - one did rise slower than the others. On average it stopped rising after 3 or 4 turns. - just kept it turning till the needle stopped going up. Not done one before so didnt know if that was the correct way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 It should only take 3/4 turns with most of it measured on the first 2. If it takes a long time to reach compression that also can signal problems. The one may have just been an anomaly. You're also meant to open the throttle when doing these tests. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 Sounds fine to me. A leakdown test is a far better guide though, can you get one of those done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprafan72 Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 IIRC - one did rise slower than the others. On average it stopped rising after 3 or 4 turns. - just kept it turning till the needle stopped going up. Not done one before so didnt know if that was the correct way Would go with what Chris said... anything around 10 per cent on each cylinder is good for a road car... Being a built engine it may be less which would be excellent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 Didnt use WOT - Will do another one at a later date any mark down how much compression per turn etc. I have forgotten whats needed for a leak down test. Could someone remind me please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRASUZUKI Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 Didnt use WOT - Will do another one at a later date any mark down how much compression per turn etc. I have forgotten whats needed for a leak down test. Could someone remind me please I believe compression tests should be done with the engine hot and at WOT (as already said). So with least ressitance to rotation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprafan72 Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 Didnt use WOT - Will do another one at a later date any mark down how much compression per turn etc. I have forgotten whats needed for a leak down test. Could someone remind me please For a leakdown test you will need a calibrated pressure gauge and a pressure regulator and adapters to connect it to the spark plug hole. The adapter is then screwed into the number one spark plug hole (with cylinder #1 at TDC compression) and the gauge is attached.. Not sure what your TDC will be as its a built engine with different cams etc from the stock engine. As soon as the gauge is attached to the adapter air will begin to fill the cylinder. As this happens, the gauge will begin to indicate the amount of air flowing into the cylinder. If air is leaking past the rings, or the valves, or the head gasket, we can directly read the amount of leakage and can easily find the leak. If there is air blowing out the PCV, you have a ring leak, if it's coming out of the exhaust, you have an exhaust valve leak, and so on...etc.. Anything past 10 per cent you need to be concerned about... You need to do the same on all cylinders.. Lets us know the results for both... Will be interesting to compare.. Any help Jon, give me a shout... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 Friend going to get me the equipment and we will give it a try. Will let you know how i get on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 Leakdown is a bit more involved. Each cylinder has to be at TDC (of compression!) and you need to turn the engine and keep it in place while it's pressurised (the piston will try to move) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 Leakdown is a bit more involved. Each cylinder has to be at TDC (of compression!) and you need to turn the engine and keep it in place while it's pressurised (the piston will try to move) Yeah, put it in 4th with the handbrake firmly on Less than 5% on compression test is great. Hopefully the leakdown test will be as good and you'll be confident the base engine is ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRASUZUKI Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Just been looking through the manual for other info but came across this for compression tests - Minimum pressure 128psi Maximum difference between cylinders 14psi. HTH:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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