View Full Version : Nitrous boost switch - what are you using?
I asked my local motorfactor ("anything you can buy on-line we can get for you") for a boost switch or hobbs switch and got a very blank look indeed. :blink:
I feel a case of 'keep buying stuff off Ebay until you get lucky' coming on.
Most grateful if anyone who has done it could save me time and cash by pointing me to a suitable adjustable switch to turn off the nitrous when the boost comes on. Ta.
RobSheffield
02-07-07, 16:26
What ecu or system are you using to control nitrous? Progressive controller?
tooquicktostop
02-07-07, 16:37
I have this in my arm rest, one for NOS, one for boost, one for anti lag and the last for race fuel all linked to the AEM, I brought it from Demon Tweeks ;)
RobSheffield
02-07-07, 16:39
I have this in my arm rest, one for NOS, one for boost, one for anti lag and the last for race fuel all linked to the AEM, I brought it from Demon Tweeks ;)
That appears to be to turn it on, Simon wants a boost pressure switch to turn it off at a set boost level ;)
Tourniquet
02-07-07, 16:40
I was going to suggest that. There are ECU's available that can be specificaly programmed for this and there's of course the progressive controller as mentioned above but I don't think that's linked directly to an ECU as such. I was told for mine to forget the 'movie' buttons n go for one of those options. I got in my kit a swich for under the accelerater which stops hurling it in the second u let go of it.
Um, I wasn't thinking of anything as complicated (or expensive) as a progressive controller. I'm thinking a straightforward small shot at WOT from the start line until I reach x PSI then switch off the gas and boost only for the rest of the run.
tooquicktostop
02-07-07, 16:43
That appears to be to turn it on, Simon wants a boost pressure switch to turn it off at a set boost level ;)
I should read with more care :(
RobSheffield
02-07-07, 16:44
Um, I wasn't thinking of anything as complicated (or expensive) as a progressive controller.
What size jet or jets?
Doing Nos cheaply can and will cause much more expensive problems im afraid :(
I did look at controlling it via the Emanage (using the 5v output meant for an additional injector) but I'd still need some kind of pricey control module to take that 5v signal and control the solonoid with it.
What size jet or jets?
I was going to start with a 25 and work my way up.
Doing Nos cheaply can and will cause much more expensive problems im afraid :(I'm feeling brave. I was endlessly warned that I would blow up my engine by mapping it myself but that advice turned out to be unfounded so I'll have a go at the nitrous as well.
I have a arming switch on the dash then the nos is on a wot stitch on my TB.
RobSheffield
02-07-07, 16:51
I would guess it would be a lot less pricey than a new engine :p
The main thing to think is if the jets are fairly large, a sudden increase in the power can cause clutch slip
EDIT - 25 jet shouldnt be too bad
I have a arming switch on the dash then the nos is on a wot stitch on my TB.That's what I've bought. I assume that you aren't switching the nos off when you get boost?
That's what I've bought. I assume that you aren't switching the nos off when you get boost?
I use mine the opposite, i dont use it till full boost is well on as i dont want to be bending any rods at low revs.
I have a arming switch on the dash then the nos is on a wot stitch on my TB.
What is TB Jamie? I have a wot switch to, was thinking of mounting on the gearknob somewhere so i can press it when i want :)
Ho ho. Most amusing.
We're not getting any closer to which switch people are using, though.
I went to maplin and got standard toggle switch with a fighter pilot red hat over the top to prevent accidental triggering.
That's the arming switch, not the boost switch.
What is TB Jamie?
Throttle body.
That's the arming switch, not the boost switch.
Sorry, my mistake, am I correct in assuming you are looking for something that at a certain pressure opens/closes a relay?
Throttle body.
Ah i see. could you mount this under the accelerator pedal?
PS sorry Simon :hijack:
Ah i see. could you mount this under the accelerator pedal?
PS sorry Simon :hijack:
Yea should be possible.
Yes, a relay which has common/NC/NO connections such as you'd find on a thermostat.
Any good?
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&N=4294730640&name=SiteStandard&in_dim_search=1&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0911099355.1183393886@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdfaddlgekiiiecefeceeldgkidhgg.0&cacheID=uknetscape
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?Nr=AND(avl%3auk,searchDiscon_uk%3aN)&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&N=4294730640&in_dim_search=1&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2970046&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0911099355.1183393886@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdfaddlgekiiiecefeceeldgkidhgg.0&cacheID=uknetscape
http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com/images/R297004-91.jpg
http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com/images/L297005-01.gif
See this. "There are 3 electrical connections to the device. One is common. One is N/O (normally open). The other is N/C (normally closed)."
This one has pressure passing through but that's not necessary. I would probably set switch up with the N/C to the WOT switch, the common to the solenoid. The nitrous comes on when the WOT switch detects Wide Open Throttle and goes off when the boost hits the pre-defined level (the relay switches to N/O).
Any good?Sweet! You're pretty handy at this interweb. Thanks.
Sweet! You're pretty handy at this interweb. Thanks.
More than welcome RS electronics is a goldmine of bits and pieces, find just about anything.
With the pressure gauge, and the activation switch, I consider putting in some sort of basic comparator circuit.
if wot AND boost THEN fire solenoid.
http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateM7.asp?SubFolderID=1797&SearchYN=N
Was looking in to similar myself and saw this on Dusty's site
http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateM7.asp?SubFolderID=1797&SearchYN=N
Was looking in to similar myself and saw this on Dusty's siteNice, but a bit pricey for me.
not to highjack,
but how much was you nos kit i got a quote of 670 for a full kit with a controller (from NOS)
i've seen kit with out got for 800 (wizards of NoS),
surely with a controller is better as you csna fine tune to your driving style or it all coming in at 1000rpm :)
not to highjack, but how much was you nos kit i got a quote of 670 for a full kit with a controller (from NOS)I paid £308 for a dry kit from Cold Fusion. That's including bottle, purge kit and p+p from Texas.
i've seen kit with out got for 800 (wizards of NoS)I wouldn't pay that much for a wife let alone a nitrous kit.
surely with a controller is better as you can fine tune to your driving style or it all coming in at 1000rpm :)Dunno, this will be my first nitrous kit so I won't know until I've got some experience.
I paid £308 for a dry kit from Cold Fusion. That's including bottle, purge kit and p+p from Texas.
Just bought my billet double bottle holder from them, very nice price too
I paid £308 for a dry kit from Cold Fusion. That's including bottle, purge kit and p+p from Texas.
I wouldn't pay that much for a wife let alone a nitrous kit.
Dunno, this will be my first nitrous kit so I won't know until I've got some experience.
Couple of points..
1. You might have hassles getting the bottle filled if it does not have an EU safety mark on it (Yes, I got caught out with this).
2. Be careful with a dry kit... you might have issues with running lean with the fuel
3. A progressive controller is a very good idea if you are going to go slightly bigger jets.
You might have hassles getting the bottle filled if it does not have an EU safety mark on it (Yes, I got caught out with this).Um...the kit has arrived and the bottle doesn't have any EU markings. I assume from your comment that suppliers can be precious about this.
Still, there are no such things as problems - only opportunities. This must be a common opportunity and I'm guessing that the easiest fix would be to do my own label with a EU mark. A quick rummage on the interweb hasn't revealed anything readily available. Is it just a case of sticking on a separate EU sticker or am I likely to have to forge a complete label from a compliant bottle? Who has done this and do you have a scan or at least a close-up pic that I can create my own label from?
Um...the kit has arrived and the bottle doesn't have any EU markings. I assume from your comment that suppliers can be precious about this.
Still, there are no such things as problems - only opportunities. This must be a common opportunity and I'm guessing that the easiest fix would be to do my own label with a EU mark. A quick rummage on the interweb hasn't revealed anything readily available. Is it just a case of sticking on a separate EU sticker or am I likely to have to forge a complete label from a compliant bottle? Who has done this and do you have a scan or at least a close-up pic that I can create my own label from?
It all depends on the filler, most people should we say we will overlook it, however some may get funny...
Just try it, and see how it goes..
It isn't a label, it is an etching into the bottle usually.
For all the hassle you are going to with pressure switches and logic circuits you may as well just run it off the E-Manage's sub injector driver :)
If the 5v driver can't run it, use it to trigger a fast switching relay that controls a 12v feed to the solenoid. That way you've got boost *and* rev windowing and you can pulse/stage it too with different duty cycles. I'm sure Gav could magic up a suitable relay, and that's all it'll cost you :thumbs:
-Ian
The bottle needs a "pye" (like the maths symbol) mark on it to be EU certified. will be inscribed into the bottle probably next to the serial number. im gonna try these when i fill up as i have american nitrous express bottles....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nos-Nitrous-Oxide-Refills-10-11-Lbs-Wizards-NX-NO2_W0QQitemZ220125943339QQihZ012QQcategoryZ72205QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
For all the hassle you are going to with pressure switches and logic circuits you may as well just run it off the E-Manage's sub injector driver :)
If the 5v driver can't run it, use it to trigger a fast switching relay that controls a 12v feed to the solenoid. That way you've got boost *and* rev windowing and you can pulse/stage it too with different duty cycles. I'm sure Gav could magic up a suitable relay, and that's all it'll cost you :thumbs:
-IanYes, I'd already thought of doing that but I assumed that I'd need something to convert the 5v signal to some form of solenoid control.
Gav?
The bottle needs a "pye" (like the maths symbol) mark on it to be EU certified. will be inscribed into the bottle probably next to the serial number. im gonna try these when i fill up as i have american nitrous express bottles....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nos-Nitrous-Oxide-Refills-10-11-Lbs-Wizards-NX-NO2_W0QQitemZ220125943339QQihZ012QQcategoryZ72205QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
send away your bottle and get it back bit risky
send away your bottle and get it back bit risky
Its done the same way by www.nitrousoxidesupplies.co.uk, but they wont refill non EU bottles, although i am still trying to find somewhere locally that will do it.
Just got in the door... I'll look into it now for you...
As Ian said, I would use a relay, however maybe not an old school relay, but rather a solid state one. Just checking some datasheets now, for something suitable.
Here is the a few to choose from
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?D=solid%20relay&Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&Ntk=I18NAll&Nty=1&Ntt=solid%20relay&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2508802501&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0912415356.1183571335@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdkaddlgelghejcefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?D=solid%20relay%205v&Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&Ntk=I18NAll&Nty=1&Ntt=solid%20relay%205v&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2509033807&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0912415356.1183571335@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdkaddlgelghejcefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?D=solid%20relay%205v&Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&Ntk=I18NAll&Nty=1&Ntt=solid%20relay%205v&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2509033920&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0912415356.1183571335@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdkaddlgelghejcefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape
This one is probably the best bet.. Can handle 5A on the output side, runs happily on a switching voltage of 5v
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?D=solid%20relay%205v&Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&Ntk=I18NAll&Nty=1&Ntt=solid%20relay%205v&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2508806840&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0912415356.1183571335@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdkaddlgelghejcefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape
http://docs-alliedelec.electrocomponents.com//Images/Products/DataSheets/821-8202.pdf
10A DC version in the same series - http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?obs=sObs&name=SiteStandard&No=0&N=0&Ntk=I18NAll&Ntt=G3NA-D210B&Nty=1&D=G3NA-D210B&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&callingPage=/jsp/line/line.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0912415356.1183571335@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdkaddlgelghejcefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape&Nr=avl:uk
Easy to wire in as well, - to ground and + to the 5v switching output of the emanage. The load side can go directly to the solenoids then.
Me!!Sorry mate!
I looked at those items and there's a lot of electrobabble that's over my head. All I want is a relay that will switch according to an input voltage between 0v and 5v. Doesn't have to be scalable in any way, I just need to know what voltage the relay would require me to send from the Emanage. I would then wire the relay in with the NC as part of the nitrous circuit so that the voltage that I send will switch the relay to NO, thereby breaking the circuit and cutting off the nitrous.
Can you advise which one of those would fit the bill?
Go for this one then...
G3NA-205B
Do a search on rswww.com for it.
Easy to wire in as well, - to ground and + to the 5v switching output of the emanage. The load side can go directly to the solenoids then.
Gav,
At the risk of making myself appear even thicker than usual, from the wiring diagram below the 3 would be the 0-5v from the Emanage, the 4 would be ground and the 1 and 2 would form part of the circuit for the NOS? The 1/2 would be closed until a certain voltage was sent to 3?
This is the diagram for the G3NA-205B.
Gav,
At the risk of making myself appear even thicker than usual, from the wiring diagram below the 3 would be the 0-5v from the Emanage, the 4 would be ground and the 1 and 2 would form part of the circuit for the NOS? The 1/2 would be closed until a certain voltage was sent to 3?
This is the diagram for the G3NA-205B.
Don't panic, don't mind the questions.
Yes, 4 would be ground, and 3 the emanage connection. I need to check the datasheets to confirm what the default state is off the unit, I believe it could normally open till voltage applied, but I will confirm.
I believe it could normally open till voltage applied, but I will confirm.Did you get a chance to have another look? Any help appreciate here :)
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