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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

'Max Air' Cold Air Induction Kit (Picture Intensive)


tDR
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Some pics of mine taken at time of fitting.

 

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Merchant/catalogpics/mk4/maxair.jpg

 

Saw this advertised on MVP Motorsports website (thanks Dusty!) and thought it looked like an excellent solution to the aftermarket induction vs. heat soak thing. It's designed for the USDM Supra which is probably why nobody is running this kit over here as it needs modified to fit our JDM Supra's. I figured there's only a MAF sensor in the intake tract that's different and I could bypass that with a small piece of pipe.

 

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Upon fitting, I fully expected to have to write down dimensions and go to a local engineering firm to have a piece of pipe made up with a step down diameter to fill the gap. However, we just happened to have a piece of Marley 58 drain pipe (correct diameter at the max air end) lying around which has a double ridge interference fit at one end. We used this end and cut to the required 6" length. Then used one of the very large jubilees from the max air kit to get the extra bite down between the ridges on the OEM organ hose into the turbo intake pipework - had a spare smaller jubilee lying around that was just the right size for the max air elbow.

 

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^^ After our custom pipe job we then applied some bathroom sealant ( :D ) to get a proper seal and ensure an airtight join. Sounds bodgetastic but has worked a treat:

 

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Very pleased with the end result - will get a massive ram air effect with the headlight out, like at TOTB :)

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

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is that not the same that Uk-rich has his hobbyist membership for?

 

Similar, but with Richs kit you have to do all the cutting out yourself, ie he doesn't have a specific kit for a single set up or stock twins etc etc as i was after one from him this week. I don't have the facilities or skills to to do cutting out stuff :(

 

The similarity in the kit is the sealent used between the top of the shield and the bonnet.

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So it's a stock airbox sized box, with feeds like a stock airbox but with the top and front cut off and a filter with less surface area stuck on... why not just take the lid off the standard one?

 

I'm being awkward of course but I don't really see the benefit, it's better than just sticking a filter on the end of a pipe but isn't it just trying to be an airbox?

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Bri is that the same size as a stock airbox then?

 

The space that the heat shielding creates is slightly larger, goes about 3" further back than the stock airbox (you can tell by the standard intake scoop still being utilised) - it just uses all available spare space, the barrier is the intercooler pipe running behind it.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

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So it's a stock airbox sized box, with feeds like a stock airbox but with the top and front cut off and a filter with less surface area stuck on... why not just take the lid off the standard one?

 

I'm being awkward of course but I don't really see the benefit, it's better than just sticking a filter on the end of a pipe but isn't it just trying to be an airbox?

 

I don't expect any great performance benefit but think perhaps a small gain with the headlight out because of the ram air effect created, whilst not really losing anything over the stock setup and gaining the nice induction sucky noise :D (ok I'm a big kid!) - I wanted something similar in design to the stock setup but using a cone type intake, this fitted the bill :)

 

Also, I needed a new panel filter so was a good time to do it. The K&N filter element has a very large filtration surface area given sides and front with very close folds:

 

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Merchant/kn_mk4.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

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It looks like a decent attempt at shielding an aftermarket cone filter.

As for the ram-air effect with the headlight taken out you'd need to have a fully-sealed bellmouth intake at the front with surface about 1/3 of the box cutout --- progressively increasing to fit the front of the box.

 

I'd be careful with silicone products after the airfilter, they could potentially break down and get sucked in. Even if there is no mechanical damage, the oxygen sensor (or the WB) will not appreciate it.

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