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turbo upgrades


grahamc
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I'm not sure what you're getting at here, do you wish to replace the stock/hybrid turbo's with larger ones that replicate the stock system? If so, thats not possible.

 

If you wish to switch to a conversion, then a twin system is only really for the big power cars. A small or mid sized single is the only cost effective upgrade from hybrids if you want to retain low range torque

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I'm not sure what you're getting at here, do you wish to replace the stock/hybrid turbo's with larger ones that replicate the stock system? If so, thats not possible.

 

If you wish to switch to a conversion, then a twin system is only really for the big power cars. A small or mid sized single is the only cost effective upgrade from hybrids if you want to retain low range torque

 

it was the first bit in your reply... its not possible... pity though...

 

then what is te choice for the small mid sized single turbos...?? just try to research costings a bit... :eyebrows:

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Geordiesteve's on the ball with those questions:) It's all about power goals, desired spool, driving style and what you want from the car.

 

If you're happy with a genuine 500rwhp (That is a LOT of power btw!) then the popular choices are going to be:

 

BL/SP/PHR T61

BL/SP/PHR T67

GT35

GT4088

 

and for quicker spool with same power:

BL/SP/PHR T61 DBB (Not sure if all do this spec)

BL/SP/PHR T67 DBB

GT35R

GT4088R

 

Obviously the dbb turbo's cost a lot more, but it helps torque low down.

 

I HIGHLY recommend you get a drive in as many single turbo cars as you can before making a decision (prefeably those with similar spec build & boost). It'll give you an idea of what each of the cars are like on the road. To be honest I think the difference between a base T61 and base T67 is quite large, so don't assume that little number change doesn't make much difference on the road - it does!

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pmsl no I want to change cos everyone has gone gt4088 now! 680's will be fine.

 

You'll be needing an ECU to control the fueling as well

 

Are you sure about that Steve? The GT4088 is similar spec to the T67 and that needs at least 720cc to run at 1.4 bar within normal safety margins.

 

got ecu - link g2 (shortly being changed to g3)

 

Good choice of ECU, thats a great start :)

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Geordiesteve's on the ball with those questions:) It's all about power goals, desired spool, driving style and what you want from the car.

 

If you're happy with a genuine 500rwhp (That is a LOT of power btw!) then the popular choices are going to be:

 

BL/SP/PHR T61

BL/SP/PHR T67

GT35

GT4088

 

and for quicker spool with same power:

BL/SP/PHR T61 DBB (Not sure if all do this spec)

BL/SP/PHR T67 DBB

GT35R

GT4088R

 

Obviously the dbb turbo's cost a lot more, but it helps torque low down.

 

I's HIGHLY recommend you get a drive in as many single turbo cars as you can before making a decision (prefeably those with similar spec build & boost). It'll give you an idea of what each of the cars are like on the road. To be honest I think the difference between a base T61 and base T67 is quite large, so don't assume that little number change doesn't make much difference on the road - it does!

 

Completely agree, and will try and get in as many singled cars as possible, except for Jamies... I have seen him drive... :p

 

What is the difference between say the GT35 and the GT4088?? Then whats the R version?

 

Well will see how close my car is at current to 400 at the wheels on the SRR day... ;) :D

 

edit - and yes 500 at the wheels is a lot, my car running 1.1 bar is rather scary for the first time I have driven a supra...

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Are you sure about that Steve? The GT4088 is similar spec to the T67 and that needs at least 720cc to run at 1.4 bar within normal safety margins.

 

 

 

Good choice of ECU, thats a great start :)

 

well ideally I would like something to fit in with my current setup.

 

Thanks... will see what the full potential o the ecu is soon hopefully! :eyebrows:

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In that case I'm not sure. I thought 680's would run 500rwhp? I'd take your advice over mine on this though.

 

Not sure taking my advice is a good idea :D I'm basing that on Ian C's findings with the BL T67 (which in theory is should flow very similar to a GT4088 at 1.2+). The 680's will flow enough to provide over 500rwhp but you're going into the 80%+ duty cycle territory which is far from desirable.

 

Completely agree, and will try and get in as many singled cars as possible, except for Jamies... I have seen him drive... :p

 

What is the difference between say the GT35 and the GT4088?? Then whats the R version?

 

Well will see how close my car is at current to 400 at the wheels on the SRR day... ;) :D

 

I'd be surprised if your hybrid car is much more than 360rwhp (mine at BPU made this at 1.25 bar and lean as possible fueling), it's still one of the most powerful BPU cars they've dyno'd.

 

The 'R' on the GT turbo's mean it's a dbb turbo so will spool a few hundred rpm sooner than the non-R versions (big difference for a daily driver).

 

I don't remember the exact difference between the GT40 and GT35 turbo's but I think the it relates to the compressor size, the last two number (eg. the 88) to the exducer. Nic might be along later to explain all.

 

well ideally I would like something to fit in with my current setup.

 

Thanks... will see what the full potential o the ecu is soon hopefully! :eyebrows:

 

If you've already got the 680's then a T61 spec might be the most use to you. It should be capable of 500rwhp with a good setup and the right cams. It will be devastatingly quick on the road. Wez’s car is probably the best example around of a well set up T61 (so try to blag a lift if you can :D )

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Not sure taking my advice is a good idea :D I'm basing that on Ian C's findings with the BL T67 (which in theory is should flow very similar to a GT4088 at 1.2+). The 680's will flow enough to provide over 500rwhp but you're going into the 80%+ duty cycle territory which is far from desirable.

 

 

 

I'd be surprised if your hybrid car is much more than 360rwhp (mine at BPU made this at 1.25 bar and lean as possible fueling), it's still one of the most powerful BPU cars they've dyno'd.

 

The 'R' on the GT turbo's mean it's a dbb turbo so will spool a few hundred rpm sooner than the non-R versions (big difference for a daily driver).

 

I don't remember the exact difference between the GT40 and GT35 turbo's but I think the it relates to the compressor size, the last two number (eg. the 88) to the exducer. Nic might be along later to explain all.

 

 

 

If you've already got the 680's then a T61 spec might be the most use to you. It should be capable of 500rwhp with a good setup and the right cams. It will be devastatingly quick on the road. Wez’s car is probably the best example around of a well set up T61 (so try to blag a lift if you can :D )

 

Well still lots of time for research, hopefully!

 

My car is mapped to 1.4 (I only run around 1 - 1.1 on the road) and running 264 cams... hopefully my car will be running properly for the SRR (so get it organised :D ), as I am quite keen to see what its running. I will scan in the RR printout from THOR which was at 1.2 and running in true twin mode (nice straight line up, no drop in the middle).

 

The R is sounding to be the best option, but that will depend on price. And the 40 vs 35 sizing??

 

I am going to go have a look at Wezs garage to see what he is running, as that is not the first time I have heard that....

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Hi Graham

 

For around 500hp I'd definitely recommend the Garret GT35R (GT3582R). I've recently fitted one on my own car, very responsive and loads of power.

 

Lag is similar to stock turbos, with positive boost around 2K rpm and full boost just over 3-4K rpm.

 

See my garage for full spec.

 

Here's dyno from mine

 

http://img469.imageshack.us/img469/6925/010pk2.jpg

 

cheers

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The GT35 seems to be the way to go!!

 

What sort of max boost can you get?

 

Then finally thing can you PM me a price ;)

 

Hi Graham

 

Boost depends on the strength of the engine, fuel being used, etc. max I'd want to run at on road fuel and on a relatively stock engine would be around 1.4bar. I generally run at 1.2bar which is insanely quick, 1.4bar spins the wheels up in the dry in 3rd.

 

I'll check the price for you.

 

cheers

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