View Full Version : Noticed this mod on Engine. HELP.
I was having a look at the engine when i spotted this mod. It looks like the 2 hoses have been removed from a sensor and then joined together. See pic for more detail. What is it??? Thanks.
THOR Racing
20-08-03, 19:03
Someone has removed your sequential turbo setup and made it into a true twin setup.
So both 1 and 2 turbos spool up together rather than just 1 and then 1 and 2.
Regards
Pete
Oh!! I read a bit about how to do that and it did'nt look that easy!! If i replace them will it cause any probs?? Also why would someone have done this and not returned it to normal, is it masking another fault! Thanks.
THOR Racing
20-08-03, 19:16
This is a partial conversion I believe to true twin. Well at least it removes the second turbo prespool control.
Just put the ends of the pipes back onto the VSV (behind it in the photos) and try it. The VSV is the thing it's tie wrapped to.
It's a personal preference thing. Some like the twin setup and others the sequential.
As to why. No idea. Again someone elses preference.
You won't hurt it if you try putting it back.
Regards
Pete
Ok, Thanks. Im off to have a play!:)
Back now after playing. I did'nt notice much difference between the setups, it feels slightly smoother with the correct setup. I could hear a slight flutter noise when i floored like something was pressure releasing or a valve was pulsing. What might that be? Anyone know if this is normal? Cheers again.
THOR Racing
21-08-03, 08:22
What other mods do you have?
None. It's a standard UK TT 6spd. Is there likely to be other little bits done to compliment that mod, i had a look but nothing has jumped out at me. Cheers Pete.
I would have though that to make a parallel twin conversion you need to wedge open the exhaust gas control valve as well? Might be worth checking as without that opening as well, 1st turbo boost would be a bit low as it went backwards through the second turbo :)
-Ian
It looks ok. I think it is the correct item i am looking at. It sits between the first turbo and the block, looks like a can with a leever in the bottom. Is this correct?
Found another pipe linked out!! See pic for detail. This one is at the front of the engine down low. Is this all that is likely to have been done for a true twin mod? OR is there more still hidden away? Thanks for your help.
Regards
Chris
If it was done 'properly' then the actuator at the back of the turbo assembly will be wired open...
Ok i might need a bit more detail. Im new to supra engines. Direct me as to what i should look at to check and what to look for. Thanks.
Pity I dont have a digital camera or i'd take a pic for you.
follow cam cover towards bulkhead, on left hand side at back there is a golden coloured cylinder with a rod coming out of it, when you rev the engine up you would see this move but i'm guessing yours is already wired open.
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/ttc/ttc10.JPG
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/ttc/ttc1.JPG
That looks ok. It goes in as i rev the engine and comes back out as the revs die down.
Just got back in from having a drive about town. It feels alot smoother in sequential setup, but lacks the pull that true twin has, it seems to take forever to get to the redline!! Also i noticed my slight miss fire or hessitation has gone when it was in stock setup, any ideas as to why?? Would the true twin setup be alot harsher and maybe cause the hessitation/ miss fire. Any advice please. Cheers.
Originally posted by 400BHP
If it was done 'properly' then the actuator at the back of the turbo assembly will be wired open...
This can be done with just the vacum pipes but you are reliant on the pressure system being in good cond. , there is also an electronic way where you can just switch between the two.:p
John:flame Dev
In my opinion, Toyota spent a huge amount of money developing sequential for a reason, like John says, your vacuum system needs to be in good working order for this to work otherwise #2 turbo wont get any prespool and it will just slam into action, which may damage it, even worse is if you bypass the wrong vsv, and the anti-return valve between #1 and #2 is open, you could end up with the charge air blasting the wrong way up the compressor and smash the vanes to pieces at the turbine comes on line.
Best thing to do is get someone who knows to do it for you, could be expensive otherwise.
John, this switchable system you are talking about, is it a kit or a build your own type thing? and have you seen one on a car thats reliably working? Just curious.
Chris
Wipeout.. keep your car in top condiftion m8! Sad to hear people fiddling with your engine like that. Your car's rare (er) ! :D
I agree. If it was supposed to be in parallel then Toyota would have had the option fitted. I would like to get it back to standard. After removing those 2 mods i found i think it is back to stock. It is a smooth pull all the way to the redline and no sudden pulls like it had before. I will have to get someone who knows a bit more about the engines to take a look. Any one in the Fareham area who can help!!
Did you buy Scooters old car?
Scooter on this forum.. now has a Blue NA.. hes called Scot.. used to have a White UK 6 speed.
Ye it looks like the same guy. Is that a good thing!!!
Hehehe hes a top guy.. strange to find out about the cars setup tho?! I wonder if he knew!
I will drop him a mail to see, I don't think he did.
As i thought, Scooter was unaware of this mod. Anyway, im still not convinced i have successfully restored it to sequential setup. The actuator does move in and out with engine revs but it is'nt alot and i did rev it high. Can anyone local to Fareham help?? Or does someone have a detailed list of things to check, test or look out for. Thanks again!!!
i hope you get this sorted Chris. Now you 'Know where I live' so to speak i may as well come clean on a couple of points i would omitt from my sales patter :D
I have run at pod and it did respectable standard car times, so i don't think theres any problem with the cars power, so should hopefully be a relatively simple hose VSV problem.
Bobbeh if only i'd whacked it on the rolling road in Alyesbury way back!
Thing is the guy i got the car from had had it for +2 years, and he just wasn't the modding type AT ALL, he'd had the major cambelt service done at McCarthys Toyota (where i'm sure it would have got a test drive) and also i'd had a oil leak repair (+general check over) done at Leon's,maybe it's not that noticeable unless you step from one to the other:conf:
I'm still finding it mildly amusing / annoying that i've never experienced the normal setup.
No worrys Scooter, I will endever to get it sorted today so you can have a go tommorrow :) . If anything it will be another pipe linked out that i have'nt found yet. I bought a new set of IK22's from Alex H and they arrived today so i will fit them and see how it goes. Have fun!!!
Ibrar Jabbar
23-06-04, 20:27
Originally posted by 400BHP
If it was done 'properly' then the actuator at the back of the turbo assembly will be wired open...
I have a similar problem on my UK spec which had the TTC mod already done.
I have replaced all pipe work on x2 VSV to normal and after a few checks it looks as if the actuator doesn't move!!
Is there any pointers as to where the actuators may have been wired/wedged open?
Just look at the actuator rod, if its retracted into the actuator then the valve is open, it would have some wire to secure it open if the mod was done properly, i use the term properly very loosely.
Originally posted by Ibrar Jabbar
I have a similar problem on my UK spec which had the TTC mod already done.
I have replaced all pipe work on x2 VSV to normal and after a few checks it looks as if the actuator doesn't move!!
Is there any pointers as to where the actuators may have been wired/wedged open?
When it says 'wired' open, it literally mean with a bit of wire. You should be able to see it wound round the arm holding the butterfly valve open.
On my bottom actuator (exhaust valve) I disconnected the actuator arm and locked open the valve. With the top on I had a spare pipe and completely removed the butterfly valve.
Ibrar Jabbar
23-06-04, 23:23
Originally posted by Barry
When it says 'wired' open, it literally mean with a bit of wire. You should be able to see it wound round the arm holding the butterfly valve open.
That makes sense now :stupid:
On inspection there is nothing wired/wedged to hold the arm open.
Is there anything else I should check for?
I will test the pressure tank tommorow to see if that could be causing the problem.
thanks for the replies :thumbs:
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