Stubby Aerial fitted minus the missing part

Thought i would have a go at fitting the stubby aerial making my own replacement extension that was missing. I did not alter the aerial so that if it does not work or last, i can fit the correct bit.

The extension was made out of a bolt with a cobbled together bracket on the end. I have to admit that it does fit a treat, which i was surprised at.

I also wedged an old bit of pipe into the gromit to lessen the movement. I have included some pics to try and help if anyone wants to try the same. Will answer any questions.

I did have concerns that it may not be tight enough but it is a really good fit and looks as if i had all the right bits.

Forgot to mention, i have not wired the power to it yet. Does anyone have any advise on where to get this from? As close to the aerial would be good so that i dont have to piss about threading cable through the car.

Is there not a 12v power supply going to the origional power aeriel?

I am sure i remember reading somewhere that it is intermitant or something so would not work. I may be wrong and hope i am. Anyone else know if it would work of the orinional wiring?

i know where you can get a proper extension. wink wink.

Forgot to mention, i have not wired the power to it yet. Does anyone have any advise on where to get this from? As close to the aerial would be good so that i dont have to piss about threading cable through the car.

they need power.... i did wonder what the heck the red wire was about.... does go some way to explain why i still dont have any reception though, i assumed the cable was snagged/cut somewhere

Another job for this evening. i ended up getting an extension bar lathed up at work to fit mine after playing about with bits of threaded rod etc.

i know where you can get a proper extension. wink wink.

I know, you sent it me haha

For the time being, mine is wired to my amp remote cable although i do not think this is 12v. I will check it soon to see if i need to find a better power source.

they need power.... i did wonder what the heck the red wire was about.... does go some way to explain why i still dont have any reception though, i assumed the cable was snagged/cut somewhere

 

Another job for this evening. i ended up getting an extension bar lathed up at work to fit mine after playing about with bits of threaded rod etc.

Mine had a red wire coming across the boot to the original aeriel, had good signal without it then plugged it in and it got even better.

You done a nice job btw without one of baz's extension bars.

I ran 12v off the boot light. Use a multimeter and you'll find that it's live constantly, which isn't the best since the life of the aerial amplifier will be reduced.

Your amp remote feed will indeed be 12v, but I seem to remember reading that they only supply 500ma and that it was dangerous to the head unit to try to draw more than that.

I just googled this:

Remote or Power Antenna Output

There may be one or more switched 12 volt outputs on your head unit. These outputs are usually called remote outputs. They are used to control power amplifiers or power antennas. If your unit has only one remote output, 12 volts will be sent through it when any audio source is being used (tuner, CD, tape, aux...). It will be 'hot' (have 12 volts on it) when the head unit is on. It will have no voltage when the head unit is off.

 

If the unit has two remotes, one wire (generally a dark blue wire with a white stripe* for aftermarket radios) will be for your power antenna and will only have 12 volts on it when you are using the tuner. It will have no voltage on it when the head unit is switched to CD, tape, aux or is switched off. This is so that your power antenna will go down when it is not needed. The second output (generally a dark blue wire* for aftermarket radios) will be marked amp remote (or amp turn-on) and will have 12 volts switched to it when any source is in use. The diagram below only shows a single remote wire. There is a diagram on the test light page that shows both types of outputs.

and this

Most remote outputs are switched through a very small transistor. This means that they are EASILY damaged by excessive current flow. They should be fused close to the head unit with a .5 amp fuse. A 1 amp fuse may not protect the switching transistor, which supplies power to the remote output. Do not try to use the remote output to power fans directly.

So be careful, best to check the user-guide of your particular head unit.

Excellent info mate, i will be altering my wiring tomorrow now