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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Steam from Radiator


Gee
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I have just fitted a Greddy FMIC to my Supra 6 speed and am now having problems with steam coming out the top of the rad and the coolant bubbling and boiling.

 

Is it just a case of bleeding the system as there were no problems before I fitted the FMIC?

 

When this happens the temperature gauge doesnt rise above halfway.

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It will not be a blown head gasket ffs! :rolleyes: Thats unheard of on a 2JZ-GTE, have never heard of a genuine example, its always misdiagnoisis.

 

It sounds like there may be no vent to the expansion tank, or the vent to it has been blocked. What kit have you installed and where has the new expansion tank and pipe been installed (it should be mounted lower than the top of the rad so the flow is alows downwards.

 

Do not drive the car until this is sorted, otherwise you run a risk of blowing the radiator.

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I fitted the Greddy 2 row bought in Nics group buy. It comes with a smaller expansion tank which is relocated to beside the battery.

 

Check the rad cap is in perfect condition and that the (tiny) overflow chanels to the expansion tank are clear. Have you changed your rad fluid too and is it the clean Toyota red colour it should be (i.e. no murkiness and no particles in it).

 

As mentioned, is the tank and the overflow pipe always 'downhill' from the rad cap?

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I've checked the lines to the expansion tank and they are running downhill from the rad and are clear. The radiator cap is also OK.

 

I used the top off a bottle sitting in the top of the rad and filled it with water and there was no bubbles visible so i thought the system was bled completely, took the car for a drive and when I came home again there was steam pouring from the rad and from somewhere underneath the engine.

 

Does this indicate that I have a leak somewhere letting air into the system?

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If you've fitted the FMIC and knocked the rad in the process it may have a small hole in one of the tubes.

 

Find where your leak is coming from. If its a hole in a tube it can be fixed.

For a brass rad (early TT's) you can drain it down & solder it in place with a blow torch & plumbing solder.

If its an ally rad (later TT's) it can be ally soldered but this is a bit more tricky & the rad needs to come out, although I can send you some stuff to do it.

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