Spinning the Back Wheels at Drag (Auto)

Hi all,

Common practice is to spin the back wheels just in front of the start line at the drags - how can these be achieved with an auto? Is it possible to get a device that just locks up the front wheels?

Cheers,

Ben.

The spinning of the wheels is to do a burn out to warm the tyres up for grip. Just roll so the wheels are just before the water, floor it and stamp on the brakes.

Do a search on power braking. That explains all about burn outs in autos. You can buy a line lock kit as well.

But I can't get it spinning in the first place - assume you have a manual where you can suddenly drop the clutch - which I can't do in an auto.

Recall seeing some guy on TopGear a while back in a TVR being able to spin it 360 then carry on in a straight line. He had a had operated brake button for the front brakes to acheive it.

Yep, good results with line lock kits apparently.

I tried to do a mini-burnout in my auto the other day and failed miserably!

Ah - Class One - a "line lock kit" must be the posh name of that :-)

Im sure Brian AKA tDR has got the lock up switch on his Auto, try Pm'n him and see where he got his from??

G.

Hmm. To get your back wheels spinning in your auto then you need to do something called power braking.

Turn your traction control off.

Left foot on footbrake.

Handbrake off.

Progressively feed in the throttle, at about 2k rpm, (if you have a stock TC fitted) the back wheels will begin to loose traction and the wheels will begin to spin. Takes a bit of practice

Don't do it for too long, it puts a terrible strain on your transmission and tranny fluid and covers the rear underside of your car in molten rubber!

I did this last night (it was wet though so helped) turn slip control off, foot on the brake, put it in D and foot on the gas, the wheels will spin and looks good but as mentioned dont do it too long.

Didn't need use of the handbrake i guess thats another way of doing it.

Didn't need use of the handbrake i guess thats another way of doing it.

Maz dude, it says handbrake off

Ah apologies I blame that on skim reading (not very well obviously) lol

Oooohhh thanks guys, I might try this on my drive...........in the gravel.

Actually, deja-vou.

Yeah, I was kinda hoping there was a way of doing it without frying the transmission and and/or rear brakes.

Searching around (now I know the right term) I think WhifBitz can fit them.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=97856&highlight=line+lock+kit

Hmm. To get your back wheels spinning in your auto then you need to do something called power braking.

 

Turn your traction control off.

Left foot on footbrake.

Handbrake off.

Progressively feed in the throttle, at about 2k rpm, (if you have a stock TC fitted) the back wheels will begin to loose traction and the wheels will begin to spin. Takes a bit of practice

 

Don't do it for too long, it puts a terrible strain on your transmission and tranny fluid and covers the rear underside of your car in molten rubber!

Not quite sure how the auto works, but if you brake and accelerate at the same time wont you burn something out, I was thinking about this technic for a fast launch, brake and accelerate then release the brakes, but thiught someting might "give" Thoughts

In my auto TT i find using your left foot on the brake and right on the gas makes the whole thing a lot easier then doing it all with the right takes some getting used to, car will try and creep forwards if your not holding the brake down enough. When the rear wheels start to light up ease of the brake and floor the gas for a lovely rollin burnt-out and to get strain of drivetrain.

I don't like doing it often as has been said must put a whole heap strain on the drivetrain, linelocking front brakes on would remove this strain.

For the dude practicing on his gravel driveway, make sure there noone or nothing behind you cos their about to get pelted! Ouch! Make sure you have a shovel handy to unless you like having craters in your driveway.

Yeah your rear brake pads take a hammering.

For those thinking of a line lock kit, the line lock will just hold the front brakes on, just like holding your foot on the brakes. Why waste 100 odd quid on something you don't need.

Yeah your rear brake pads take a hammering.

Pretty much why i'm on my 3rd set of rear pads and only 2nd set of fronts!

For those thinking of a line lock kit, the line lock will just hold the front brakes on, just like holding your foot on the brakes. Why waste 100 odd quid on something you don't need.

But what about the force being applied on rear brakes when power braking? If only your fronts are on wouldn't that mean no strain on rear axle etc?

Plus 2sets or rear pads later 100 odd quid might not seem so bad.

But what about the force being applied on rear brakes when power braking? If only your fronts are on wouldn't that mean no strain on rear axle etc?

 

Plus 2sets or rear pads later 100 odd quid might not seem so bad.

TBH if your worried about the pads i wouldn't bother thinking about doing any burnouts as you'll be needing new tyres faster.

Plus 2sets or rear pads later 100 odd quid might not seem so bad.

Good point

But what about the force being applied on rear brakes when power braking? If only your fronts are on wouldn't that mean no strain on rear axle etc?

 

is that part true? i remember i had a thread similar and got the impression that with the line lock kit = the above.

line lock kit is great and about £80

it locks front wheels better than all effort trying to hold car on foot brake.guy at santapod said your wasting your time doing a burbout on street tyres.

its easy to do a burnout

stick it in 1st hold footbrake hard and start to rev car till they spin move it into 2nd gear.

carefull not to do too long or you could heat fluid too much

TBH if your worried about the pads i wouldn't bother thinking about doing any burnouts as you'll be needing new tyres faster.

Guess the main point i was trying to make was how much strain you be putting on the tranny etc if your applying so much force to the brakes that front bias on the brakes is all that is stopping you from actually moving forwards and braking force on rear is simply being overcome by the torque of your engine.

Problem with linelocking fronts is you have to burn-out on the spot your locked out on, i did wonder if you could maybe fit linelock to the rear and in some way lock out the rear brakes so when you apply the brake pedal only front calipers would get pressure applied so you could kind of control the whole thing and say nudge forward if you want and ease of the fronts rather that suddenly removing linelock activation. Then switch off line line when your on the move so you get your rear nrakes back.

Guess the main point i was trying to make was how much strain you be putting on the tranny etc if your applying so much force to the brakes that front bias on the brakes is all that is stopping you from actually moving forwards and braking force on rear is simply being overcome by the torque of your engine.

 

Problem with linelocking fronts is you have to burn-out on the spot your locked out on, i did wonder if you could maybe fit linelock to the rear and in some way lock out the rear brakes so when you apply the brake pedal only front calipers would get pressure applied so you could kind of control the whole thing and say nudge forward if you want and ease of the fronts rather that suddenly removing linelock activation. Then switch off line line when your on the move so you get your rear nrakes back.

Excuse the line line (linelock) and nrakes (brakes) typo's!