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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Brakes.


Geo
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As some of you may know i had a run in with a bike yesterday, at warp speeds. See Driving Chronicals.

 

After braking kinda hard, i felt as if i needed to upgrade the brakes.

 

What sort of options do i have?? The car has got its factory setup for a JSPEC TT.

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Three options mate. One cheap & easy, the others expensive & requiring some work ;)

 

1) Upgrade to CW pads on the stock jap brakes (£120??? Someone correct me)

 

2) Upgrade to UK spec big brakes (approx £500 all in second hand) and get CW pads for them while you're at it (£140??)

 

3) Upgrade to an aftermarket 4 to 8 pot front brake and 2 to 4 pot rear brake system. Looking at around £1400 front & £1200 rear!!!

 

I've gone the option 2 route, but still got to fit them.

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Three options mate. One cheap & easy, the others expensive & requiring some work ;)

 

1) Upgrade to CW pads on the stock jap brakes (£120??? Someone correct me)

 

2) Upgrade to UK spec big brakes (approx £500 all in second hand) and get CW pads for them while you're at it (£140??)

 

3) Upgrade to an aftermarket 4 to 8 pot front brake and 2 to 4 pot rear brake system. Looking at around £1400 front & £1200 rear!!!

 

I've gone the option 2 route, but still got to fit them.

 

Yep that! Well said Steve.

 

Seriously though Geo, I have J-spec brakes BUT CW pads and they really transform the braking mate. I'd go down that route if you don't have the immediate cash for a UK Setup and change over when ready. ;)

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How does the Stock JDM brakes handle on track? Will they boggle after 1 lap (and i'm not talking 100% go on nürburgring), or will they take it if you stick to going 85%?

 

I had a good blat round Brands with stock j-spec brakes. Only an NA but with the CW race pads (£300+) they never faded when doing 6-7 lap stints. The tyres were complaining/overheating before the brakes became an issue.

 

CW used to track his old auto TT with these pads and j spec brakes.

 

Pad material is important to stop the type of brake fade you get on stock pads. When you upgrade pads they can maintain a high co-efficient of friction at higher temps, so they absorb the heat but keep on working. This asks more of your brake fluid as the pads/calipers get far hotter and as has been said you need to upgrade this to stop brake fade via the fluid boiling.

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I melted my jspec brakes with pretty light use at bruntingthorpe last year. not a nice smell - and they used so much pad that the fluid needed topping up.

 

Investing in good brakes is the best thing I have done, they encourage you to use them and keep yourself out of trouble!

 

it's not so much the heating up as much that the new brakes just feel so much stronger... the bite is severe and endless on the road... they feel far superior even if I don't have data on if they work better on medium speed one off stops. Best bit of kit I have bought for the car so far!

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i would like to point out that i agree woth MikeB about getting the brakes, and brake feel sorted/improved.........i think its fair to say that our cars are at the opposite end of the performance range! and that certain cars are always going to need specialist gear.......

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If you are hard on the brakes be careful with the toyota ones. I have already warped my second set. Next step drilled and grooved with CW pad. UK BTW

 

 

I do not recommend drilled discs. Unless they are a proper race disc that's cast with holes in mind. They have no real place with modern pads except for racing in the wet, or for the ultimate in reduced inertia. Plain is king ;)

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Personally i don't rate them, but others do. IMO they aren't a patch on AP, Brembo or Alcon. Also bear in mind that a track day pad set is 285 quid plus VAT, for these calipers, plus some decent pads to balance the rear. I presume you need this sort of disc and pad area because the car is going on track, it's OTT for road usage.

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